paul mc Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Hi, I need to start planning for the rebuild of my 3.5 efi (flapper) 1987 RRC engine (the compression is a bit low). As I have already been in there a few years ago to change the cam and used the original bolts I want to change to ARP studs this time. Does anyone know where I can still buy them, the usual places (paddocks, Rimmer bros, arp web site) do not seem to sell the 14 bolt versions anymore. eBay has a set for the Buick 215c.i.d rover 8 head stud kit which i think should be the same as IIRC Rover developed their engine from the Buick, but i am not sure enough to chance £150. Can anyone help? Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Give these guys a call: http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 General consensus I have seen is dump the four bolts near the exhaust and stick to 10 bolts or use the other 4 lightly torqued or even finger tight just to keep the carp out. I have 10 bolt heads on my SD1 engine in my Series 1. Rover added them and made matters worse. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I think I got some from Summit Racing in the US. There always worth a look, and the US is where any UK supplier will get them anyway. But as said above, you don't need the full set. The theory on head gasket failure on these engines is that over time the two outer rows of bolts held on while the single inner row relaxed and then the head gaskets leaked into the crankcase. For many years the advice has been to either leave out or lightly torque the outermost row of bolts. So just use ten studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Real Steel or V8Tuner in the UK, omit the outer 4 bolts as has been said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I think another view was that the head was designed for ten bolts and the leverage of the four new bolts acting on the now middle bolts as a pivot pulled the head up and away from the block just where it needed to be pulled down! Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Good explanation here: http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm under a section about 1/3rd of the way down called "Pre-96?, then this is your Head Gasket Problemsre-96?, then this is your Head Gasket" (and the pictures certainly tell a tale). Go for the ten bolt stud kit, and bung a few old ones in the outer rows, lightly torqued, to stop the crud getting in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mc Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Thanks for the replies and advice guys, i will contact your suggestions and get hold of the 10 bolt kit. Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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