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ABS


Simon_CSK

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Got an ABS failure message on the P38 before Christmas and not used the car since. The brakes are rock hard and it take a lot to get it to stop so my guess is the ABS pump. Have changed this with a spare but no difference do I need to get the fault code cleared?

Thanks

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Check the fuses and relay first.

Thanks I will check

Hi Simon , Is the pump working ? When you switch the ignition on you should be able to here the pump running ? If not , check the fuses & relay as elbekko suggests , Otherwise you may have fitted another faulty pump , Regards , Paul .

Finding a pump is not difficult I have about 3 of them and on that basis not even sure the old one is u/s so will check when the snow clears.

Thanks to both

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Main 40amp fuse was blown and now changed. Checked the relay by pulling it in and out with the engine running and seemed to be clicking fine. Held the ABS pump and there appears to be no vibration and given that there is vibration suppression on the mounting points it would seem to me to be a U/S pump.

It that a fair reflection on the diagnosis?

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Does sound like your pump has gone and blown the fuse. Possibly because the relay failed in the "on" position, which happens. Well it does on the classic and it's basically the same system. That happened to me at Eastnor whilst on a drive round with the Range Rover Register directed by Mr Crawthorne many many years ago.

If you take the pump relay out and jump where terminals 30/51 were to were 87 was, the pump should run with the ignition on or off. It is probably worth disconnecting the pump and testing for 12V first at the connector when you do the test, rather than blowing another 40A fuse.

The above assumes that you don't have general fusebox problems.

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Does sound like your pump has gone and blown the fuse. Possibly because the relay failed in the "on" position, which happens. Well it does on the classic and it's basically the same system. That happened to me at Eastnor whilst on a drive round with the Range Rover Register directed by Mr Crawthorne many many years ago.

If you take the pump relay out and jump where terminals 30/51 were to were 87 was, the pump should run with the ignition on or off. It is probably worth disconnecting the pump and testing for 12V first at the connector when you do the test, rather than blowing another 40A fuse.

The above assumes that you don't have general fusebox problems.

Pump is now running finebut the brakes are still not working properly.

Electrically a couple of minor niggles but nothing major. Having said that I have literally just changes the battery on the remote and now the offside side light and the offside indicator are permanently on and the alarm has triggered. The car still starts ok even with the lights on and the alarm sounding. Not in the mood to check it out properly because of the snow so have disconnected the battery.

Suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

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