Puffernutter Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 About a year ago I bought a green P38 4.6 HSE as a set of spares for my P38. It was relatively cheap as it sounded like a bag of spanners (I have posted before as we've hypothesised if it was the engine or gearbox). Finally (and about 9 months later than I planned) I got the gearbox out today. It would appear that my flexplate had heard about double thickness and in fact tried triple thickness. I think I've found the source of the noise! There were two bellhousing bolts missing and the rest weren't that tight. I suspect after a gearbox change, the failed to tighten them properly and allowed too much movement between engine and gearbox and over-stressed the plate! Cheers Peter P.S. What's the flexible tube that fits into the selector switch on the side of the gearbox - no mention of it in the Rave and we had to remove it to get the box out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Yep, that would account for you noise! Don't know what the tube is sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Do you have a picture of the tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 What happened to the starter ring gear plate holes (whatever they are called!) to get the edges bashed up so much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 I'm guessing that when the flex plate totally shattered the only think linking engine to gearbox was the heads of those bolts against the respective edge of the holes in the flywheel? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Ah good point! Pretty sure my flex plate was mounted further away from the engine, i.e. more space between the two plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 We seem to have the tube re-attached, still none the wiser what it does, it is in the centre of of where the wires go into the switch position sensor. A supplementary question - it looks like some of the debris has bent the crankshaft position sensor (that would explain why it would start but not run), can these be bent back, or should I get a spare as it's likely to snap? There was some debris in the bottom of the bell housing, but we have now accounted for all the bits. Just fighting the car to get the top three bell housing bolts in now - any tips? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Drop the engine mounts out temporarily.... I'd probably replace the sensor, they should be pretty robust, but bending things with many coils of wire in them doesn't often do to them any good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Top bell housing mounting bolts: lots of extensions and someone who is double jointed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Yep, had about 6 extensions on mine, and guided it up the ribs in the Bellhousing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Jack up the engine remove the engine mounts and lower the engine on to the chassis. That gives extra space at the top of the engine to tighten the top bolts. Refit the engine mounts and you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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