mad_pete Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 So after breathing life into a 15 year old laptop with lubuntu and Tuner Studio (which works very well) I'd forgotting how confusing I find all the megasquirt settings Setup Rover v8 4.2 new injectors LC1 wideband sensor ZF4 auto PWM idle valve (the recommended type) Issues Cranks for several seconds before firing - may be due to inactivity (not much use in last 3 years) First start will run for 1 -2 seconds then stall, second start is fine although will try and stall under load for the first few minutes Runnnig when warm - absolutely great (a vintage Nige tune :-) ) Idle - in drive against the torque convertor 900 rpm but in neutral 1200rpm and runs away a touch in drive on tickover could do with being a bit lower for creepy forwards on tickover Stopping, grumbles on a little after key off So I thought I would post up my settings in the hope the experts of megasquirt might be able to see some offending values while I dig out the manual ponder how complex squirting petrol in a tube an lighting is. For some reason the photos are all uploading upside down, which is very annoying, I'll keep trying to fix that appologies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Try extra cranking pulse width, if it gets worse at starting, then try less! As for stall after starting, more warmup enrichment, and more after start enrichment. Remember you only have one start per day, engine needs to be cold... Properly. Will take a couple weeks to get right, but once done it is great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Right way up photos (I hope) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Does that engine have the bypass screw around the butterfly? If so i would blank off the PWM and set the idle with that first when warm then reconnect the PWM and set the idle with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Okay I blanked the PWM and I get 900 rpm. Is the PWM knacked if its not able to stay at that idle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 You turned the hex-key bypass screw in on the throttle body? You should easily get it down to around 600 rpm. Think they are 1/4" rather than 6mm, which just round it out! With the idle valve disconnected, plenum connections bunged, fiddle with the duty cycle of the idle valve, while looking into the valve. Looking into one of the valve ports you will see a rotating shutter, as you change the duty cycle, this should move the shutter around. Adjust it until the shutter completely closes the valve -this is the duty cycle figure you need to know, and is your baseline to work everything else from, so is VERY important to get right If you have that duty cycle going to the valve, and the engine is hot your idle should now be 900rpm... or 600, or whatever you set it with the hex-key bypass screw. How are you going to use the valve? Warmup only or closed loop? Recently I have binned closed loop as too many variables to get right, like trying to balance a 12-legged stool, and just using warmup mode, which works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 I might well do that, the engine isn't short on power so it doesn't normally get troubled by load on idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 ok pulled the valve off it seems slightly open under no power and I don't see it moving but I haven't done the duty cycle value change yet. Is there a test to confirm the wiring is correct ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Just check it against the diagram... One should be 12V, the other is grounded by MS (if I remember correctly). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Ok, I have +12v but not the gorund, pull the loom apart and find where that's gone. I put the other connector to earth on the engine and the valve leaps open so that's good. Wonder if when it starts working the tuning will be out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 MS switches the ground to the valve, with it off the wire will look like it's open circuit - when it's running it will vary the duty cycle so will never be 100% solid ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 The valve doesn't seem to move when it's connected. i had the engine running and didn't see anything but maybe my multi meter is too slow to re-act. Any suggestions on what to test for it please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 The valve doesn't seem to move when it's connected. i had the engine running and didn't see anything but maybe my multi meter is too slow to re-act. Any suggestions on what to test for it please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Have you actually got any sort of idle control turned on in the settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Settings should be posted up above unless I missed anything. I believe it is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 With engine cold, remove idle valve with it plugged in, turn on ignition and play with cranking duty cycle and see if the valve moves. If it doesn't then either the valve is dead or the wiring is guffed. To test the valve, just put 12V across it, it should snap sharply in one direction, and be fully open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 What Bowie said. Also check your idle TPS threshold isn't below your resting TPS value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ok looking like a wiring fault. I'm not getting continuity from the mega squirt plug to the idle valve connector. See if I can find a wiring diagram for the pre wired 37 mega squirt plug I bought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Fair chance it's like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 thanks Fridge does seem to be those colours. So pulled the squirt plug apart I do have red/blue on a pin, follow it through and that connects to orange/trace black nearby. Check engine bay, do have orange trace black sealed off not doing anything. Check that to the red/blue pin, does have continuity. Great. Looking like epically not connected. So wire that to the solinoid. Plug it all back it. Put the key to ignition, fuel pump relay engages, good sign, get a tick tick tick sound from the bonnet, ignition off, still tick tick tick. Doesn't seem to be the idle valve but something on the top of the engine. Disconnect the idle valve ECU connection. Ticking stops. I don't understand. :-S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 You're sure you've got a PWM idle air valve (NOT the stepper one as originally fitted from the factory) and you've wired it as per the insutructions - the ECU is grounding that pin to energise the valve. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 I'm sure I have the Bosch valve. I'll post a picture. The valve has 12 v one side and the other wired through to the ecu. The only thing I can think of is if the orange wire is touching something else. I didn't think it mattered which was pos and neg on the valve. Unless the red blue connector is on the wrong ecu pin from my plug ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 The orange trace black is from the Range Rover loom so if could connect to something else as well maybe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 And now it doesn't run properly anymore oh dear..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Ok false alarm I think it's just grumpy from not being run. Leaving the isle valve disconnected for now. Wondering if either of the leads have something else on them as they are somewhat randomly choosen from the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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