skauldy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Guy's Have some LR drive train parts lying around and always liked the look of the forestry trailer plus where i get my trees it pulls the bejesus out of the arse of my friends flatbed ifor so i was thinking what about building a log trailer using the axles i have lying about with 33" tyres and box section. Does anyone know what load an LR axles can take as this might halt the build all together. Another thing i'm wondering is the spring height. If i use the original spring my bed is going to be pretty high and my load will sit high, could i get springs made that are say half the height. I haven't a clue when it comes to rebound and travel rates etc. Thanks Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Log trailer on air, set ride height at full load on schrader valve Thought fronts were 1500kg rear 2000kg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Well a 110 is 3500kg max gross weight... I'd go with that, assuming you have a Salisbury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Oh I like the air suspension idea. I could lower it when loading and then lift it up. Could use the bags like Tonk is using in his camper build. I was also thinking which may impact the load carrying abilities was to cut the hubs at the weld where they meet the axles tubes and weld a similar thickness tube getting rid of the diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Well a 110 is 3500kg max gross weight... I'd go with that, assuming you have a Salisbury. So being legal I could never max out the axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 What do you reckon about cutting the hubs off and welding in tube to get rid of diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Wouldn't bother, get 10mm plate in stead and just slice the bottom off and plate it up. And of course, only if it bothers you that much? Although, why use the actual axle? You could just as well cut the flanges and suspension brackets off and weld them on to lengths of tube, you could easily widen the track 6 inches that way giving a bit more stability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Might be worth reading the trailer IVA manual it will A. Help with ideas and B. Technically if you want to use it on the road you will need to pass it I believe. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 110 rear salisbury axle [mine being a CSW] is rated at 2950kg max load, so a 110 hardtop salisbury is a bit higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 When you say log trailer do you need a solid floor and sides or will bolsters do? If bolsters then build it with rocking beams so the LR stubs bolt on however if you just want an off road ifor, buy an ifor and left the springs and put the LR wheels and tyres on it, I beleive a forumer has allready done this. Just my 2p Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Mike has a point about IVA, I believe he is correct in needing a pass to be fully legal nowadays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Wouldn't bother, get 10mm plate in stead and just slice the bottom off and plate it up. And of course, only if it bothers you that much? Although, why use the actual axle? You could just as well cut the flanges and suspension brackets off and weld them on to lengths of tube, you could easily widen the track 6 inches that way giving a bit more stability. Hi Nigel. Sorry I maybe didn't explain well enough. What your saying about the tube is what I'd like to do. Would tidy it up a lot Might be worth reading the trailer IVA manual it will A. Help with ideas and B. Technically if you want to use it on the road you will need to pass it I believe. Mike Hi mike, I'm in Ireland and spoke to the authority in charge of trailers. I'm good to go When you say log trailer do you need a solid floor and sides or will bolsters do? If bolsters then build it with rocking beams so the LR stubs bolt on however if you just want an off road ifor, buy an ifor and left the springs and put the LR wheels and tyres on it, I beleive a forumer has allready done this.Just my 2p Will. I initially thought of bolsters but the more talking to people I'm thinking of a flatbed tipping trailer and I can fit bolsters as needed for my logs. What do you's reckon about springs. Fit the LR ones or get springs made half the size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Looks like someone bet me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Whatever car you get the axles off should have a load plate which tells you the max load per axle so I would work with that. A friend had a trailer on an LR axle and i don't think it had a diff or shafts in, the wheel was just mounted on the hub. It should be strong enough for the rated load so I wouldn't beef it up unless your planning to abuse it? I would think a leaf sprung axle is easier to mount and I wouldn't bother with shocks. Also you can remove leafs to alter the springing or even get custom leaf packs made for the weight and height you require for not silly money. I guess a drum braked LR axle would be easier to brake, swap the hydraulic actuator out for a modified cable unit off something else - maybe a handbrake drum or a conventional trailer part? Auto reverse is usually a sprung mechanism on the leading brake shoe, not sure if you can buy ones that fit a LR drum or if you'll have to come up with another mechanism? Are you allowed the old fashioned manual lockout where you are? My friends just didn't have brakes. It met it's end when a loader driver had dumped a ton of sand at the back, they tried to brake for a corner and it pushed the back of the car straight on and into a ditch Would it be easier to modify an ex MOD off road trailer or are they not suitable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 For timber extraction (from presumably an off-road/in-wood location?) I would just copy the design various existing trailers that are built for the purpose. In other words; big tyres, bogies not axles, bolster pins for round wood (unless converting in-wood), and a ring hitch. I suspect your main problem with building anything big enough to carry a decent load will be shifting it off road loaded without a tractor. Nevertheless I'll be interested to see what you come up with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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