Paddy Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Well worth the effort of laying concrete, nothing wrong with the finish for what it’ll be used for. Just in time for the winter weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 I dont know what its called in the UK but here for hard court areas we use "Stabilised earth" its a moist sand fine gravel mix with about 3-5% mixed in builders cement, Excavate for about a 4-6" deep bed, a simple timber formwork s all that is required, a membrane should NOT be used. Spread the stabilised earth, level it and then compact it down using a roller or "wacker" -, use as little water as possible, if any just a fine spray. The SE will coagulate into a very hard surface, if needed finish off with a fine rake over the top surface, (no deeper than 1/2") sprinkle very lightly with plain builders cement and roll and or wack the top surface again. Allow it to dry naturally. After around 24 - 48 hours you will have a hard compacted surface area capable of taking a heavy truck - and its very easily repairable, just fill in any hollows with moist fines, sand and cement and allow to naturally dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 That looks very good ! Well Done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 Got the rest of the work done this morning. I need to put a downpipe on the gutter, but otherwise it's now finished. Just in time for the weather to break. Thanks to all for the help/advice. Just need to move all the firewood in now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Grand job.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Job well done. You could consider getting a rain water tank ? free water is always useful... I'm about to move 30 staires of firewood to get us ready for Winter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Shed looks a bit carp now.................best start on that next 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortTimers Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 On 19/09/2016 at 3:59 PM, Arjan said: Get some mesh in or you'll regret it later.. Even chicken wire stuff helps a lot. It is relatively cheap, makes the concrete so much stronger and if you make some pictures while building you can show you're a serious man when it comes to construction. Over the years, we used a lot of concrete for various projects, both in Holland and France, and this is what we're building at the moment here : Yes : a 13 x 6 x 3.5 mtrs. ABRI We have poured a 7-10 cm. thick floor. Overkill for horses but in the futere, when selling the place, machinery etc. will be no problem. Steel armouring is very important. to get a strong floor. This is what we do. And no, this is not the new workshop - this is just for the horses.... The next project is another ABRI like this, just 2 x times al long : 26 mtrs long, 6 mtrs. wide and 2.8 mtrs. high. for firewood, Land Rovers, trailers and hay storage.. Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc..... Hi Arjan, not sure if this question is relevant for the general posts so excuse dragging up something from last year but your comments about building a work shop might save me some grey matter.... "Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc...." I'm in the planning stage of a workshop and I want to put in a lift. But its the hight thats giving me a few issues I've got 4m at the ridge but you talked about sinking the lift for easier access... how did that work in reality? or did you just lover the floor between the lift so you could gain extra hight access under the truck... if so how far did you go down. Any suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 No problem. Let me try to make a drawing for you as that might be easier - English is not my native tongue..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortTimers Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Just now, Arjan said: No problem. Let me try to make a drawing for you as that might be easier - English is not my native tongue..... Thanks Arjan that would really help. and your english is better than my French :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Me being Dutch, that's easy.... .... don't ask me about German though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortTimers Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 2 hours ago, Arjan said: Me being Dutch, that's easy.... .... don't ask me about German though.... now your talking.. my father in law is dutch so he can translate also an architect so any drawing you have or pictures I'm sure he can work them out for me. thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) Graag gedaan Basically, we live on a hillside and every 4-5 metres, the floor level goes down some 25-35 cm. This makes living and building here interesting at times... We will fit the 4-poster KONI Ramp on the concrete floor that sit about 25-30 cm below the floor of the workshop adjacent to it and will fill out the floor around the ramp with concrete so, effectively, the ramp will need to be raise a bit to get the ramps level with the floor. Drive a Land Rover on it and we can then lower the ramp. The engine bay becomes so much more accessible to work on then !! Also, because the floor under the vehicle is -25 cm. a 4 mtr roof (effectively 3.70 under the beams) becomes 3.95 and gives good working height. We'll be starting the build of a 2nd ABRI (24 x 6.5 mtrs. - 4 mtrs. high because of the horse truck that needs to be parked under it) after the Summer and later next year the 3rd ABRI (13,5 x 6 x 3,2 mtrs) is to start. Once that is finished, we can restore & enlarge the workshop to 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs. Althoug I may cheat and make the roof 4.25 mtrs. high just to be sure. I loaded 60 "Bailey Beams" this week in Holland and took them home behind the 110. The roofplating is already here... This time the amount of concrete is not too bad - about 10 M3 (or 10 trailer loads as we do the transport ourselves...) The sheetmaterial & insulation will be collected late this year and transport like this... Edited July 23, 2017 by Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortTimers Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 thanks Arjan, that really helps I think I'll do something similar as I've got a similar set of hight issues as you describe above. looks like you ahem your work cut out with all the building work. Good looking 110. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Graag gedaan ! The 110 is a work in progress Long distance overlander - twin (80 ltrs.) underbelly tanks, 300 Tdi, kitchen and bed in the back. Roll Cage hopefully fitted this Winter (anybody with a 3-door SD cage they want to get rid of ?) and roof hatch, engine & night heater, 2 batteries, etc.. Poor things works for a living Edited July 24, 2017 by Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 I used a sunroof from a scraped Nissan saloon car for my 109. With a slight nibble from the grinder, it's frame fits between the roof ribs. It hinges in the same way as the LR type, but has an over-centre handle on the rear edge instead of the rotating knob, and that handle has slotted holes for the hinge pins on the frame, so a thump will disengage the handle from the frame and allow the glass pane to be over-opened and jettisoned. I really ought to get around to cutting the sections of roof rack immediately above it to enable it to be used as an emergency escape... Anyway, a scrap yard will have a myriad of sunroofs to choose from, many similar in size and principle to the LR type and some better. The 110 is looking very tidy. Nice work! Does the right hand wiper not hit the frame's centre upright, though? You can fairly easily move the wiper spindle box to the right hand position, invert it and set the cable guide tubes up so that the wipers operate in opposite directions to suit the screen, like all Series vehicles originally have. You'd only need the right handed wiper arm and at a push a SIII cable guide tube if you cant modify the existing tube with an extension. Oh, and the front indicators and side lights are upside down (unless you prefer them that way). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Do you have any pictures of the fuel system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Don't want to hi jack the tread. I'll try to set up something in the vehicles / international section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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