FridgeFreezer Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 When I did t'ambulance I used 2x 20A fuses on the main feed as the Defender loom uses 2x brown wires to feed into the bulkhead / ignition switch loom, it's worked great so far. Also - part of my reason for not using a relay for the coils & injectors is to load the ignition live side down so the engine doesn't run on when you switch off - it's previously been an issue that the alternator warning light circuit can back-feed 12v with enough current to hold a relay open, so if you switch everything through a relay it can just keep running... hence a lot of people stick a diode inline. (LR themselves do this on some motors!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 aha, the secret of the mystery diode comes out!! now I understand.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 I also found on the megatune manual a diagram showing a shielded wire for the PIP and SAW wires between the EDIS and ECU, Nigel was quite generous with his shielded wire so I think I might just replace the pink and slate/orange with shielded. 1. Fridge Freezer? is this necessary? what are the disadvantages of not shielding these wires? 2. I did see the original ford wiring was shielded ? 3. what is the little ford plug thingy on pin 3 (SAW)? a capacitor? it looks too small to be a 12V ->5V voltage reducer? do i leave it inline or take it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 I've never shielded PIP or SAW. The little plug thingy is a bridging link I think, so you can disconnect SAW to get the "limp mode" fixed 10deg timing. Don't quote me on it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 decision time has begun. I have decided to run a shielded wire for my PIP and SAW (Fridge Freezer I am not second guessing you but rather think that maybe we can compare graphs later and then see if the shielded PIP and SAW wires achieve anything) but at the same time I am leaving the pink SAW and Slate/Grey PIP wire in the loom as "extras", never know ;-) I have separated the relay and ecu wires, run each one through its own gland seal, then a third gland seal for the vacuum pipe. next the soldering of the ECU plug and then I can start fitting it all into the Landy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 maybe we can compare graphs later and then see if the shielded PIP and SAW wires achieve anything Unless you're running direct coil drive (no EDIS) you won't have anything to compare - and EDIS basically either works or it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 well then I'll just have 2 spare wires in my loom, also not a bad thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 while my wiring is coming along nicely (says he who hasn't tried to start the engine yet ) ..... I need some help or suggestions with my throttle linkage and PWM fitting. Because my 110 is LHD the brake servo is on the "wrong" side, giving me a lot less space for the induction piping. routing it to the front is also not an option cause that is full with alternator and steering pump bits. here is my old throttle linkage and you can see it leaves no space for the PWM to be fitted. here is the throttle linkage that came with the hotwire plenum (think it was off a disco of sorts but def a RHD cause it leaves me no space for induction piping. and my final question, at the back of the Plenum is an original LR PWM bolted on, this has a plug with 4 terminals, and if I try blow through it it's closed, so if I hook up my Bosch PWM to this will it work? what does the PWM do anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Could you turn the plenum around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Use the flapper plenum, I've worked on a truck with the first throttle linkage you show, and while it is not ideal, you can get hoses to work with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 The LR "PWM" is not a PWM-controlled valve, it's a stepper motor. You can remove it and hook a PWM valve to the port, it's just a hole into the plenum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 ok but if the stepper motor is closed then the Bosch PWM I have won't work? cause it can't feed air through the "closed" stepper motor are there bolt on adapters with a pipe for the Bosch PWM or must I fabricate one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Could you turn the plenum around? thought about this too Quaggy, but then I have the plenum too close to the rocker cover for the heater pipes to pass I think I am going to use the Flapper LHD throttle frame with the hotwire plenum and figure out a way to sort the tubing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Cut the end off the stepper, or find a plug that fits, M22x1.5 sounds right from memory, Nige sells plugs for these... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 ok, so its running..... but not great. 1. making a "knocking sound" which doesn't sound great.... 2. somehow my Megatune doesn't want to connect to my ECU, well it does "connect" but ten immediately this fault comes up and my megatune program freezes up. any tips or ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Use Tunerstudio MS, much better and more informative error messages, and worth every penny for the registered version. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 ok, got it running, 1. the knocking sound is gone, not going to tell what it was except that I am a world class idiot..... 2. the error with Megatune was the USB-serial connection, got it working with a serial laptop from the neighbour. running pretty nicely now, still need to sort out my pWM tubing etc, loom is coming out so that I can tape it up. two current problems are 1. TPS only gets to a max of 13% at max throttle, and the TPS only "sees" the throttle right at the end of its travel, tried to set the TPS position in the Megatune settings and it gets to a max value of 31, supposed to be close to 255, is my TPS broken? 2. the "duty cycle" shows extremely high values, thousands of percent? what causes this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 Well my TPS is truly FUBAR now, after trying to get it out to test it and completely destroying it Will my old TPS from the flapper plenum work? If I set it up in megatune ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 If it fits, then yes Mega squirt will work with basically any TPS that you calibrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 Bowie any idea on the huge duty cycle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Not really, no. What is your required fuel setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 fuel setting, aahm, yes, good question, I have no idea still in the learning process what all of this fuddle duddle means, bought the kit from Nigel so assumed that all was programmed ready for a 3.5V8 I did see a strange value in a fuel "box" but can't remember if it was the fuel delivery, it was something like 1$", too scared to start changing things until I have a better grasp of what goes where. does anyone have a basic set of parameters that a 3.5V8 should operate on? once I have these I can fiddle and if I mess it up come back to these. @Bowie, had a look at the tunerstudio MS, but being a Mac user still struggling to installed, so chugging on with megatune at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Tunerstudio works just fine on a Mac, I have one Any figured in the fueling page that have strange symbols in are likely causing your problem.... it is fundamental to the running of the engine, so any other fiddling will be wasted time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 AARGGHH!! now my ECU is not talking to my MEGATUNE again!!! first i thought it was USB-serial adaptor related but now I am getting the same error on a laptop with a serial port..... the very same laptop was working great 2 nights ago..... the 3 LED's on the back of the ECU, what do they mean? I get the two closest to the serial plug light up at start, then the middle one goes off, and the furthest one lights up briefly when I depress the accelerator pedal. also... when I give throttle the engine first "hesitates" then revs, if I give a sharp throttle input it dies, it seems to "follow" only if I throttle slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 ok so have a tuner studio light version running on a windows laptop, have calibrated my TPS, but still not revving properly on the throttle inputs. here are some pics of the dials on tunerstudio and here the tuner studio data log can anyone help me with some tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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