chassis sealing

[spiker3]

Hi guys,

I have just got my discovery 2 back form the MOT. Its legal again for another year but I was told it was starting to show signs of rust on the chassis.

As I live in sunny Clacton on sea with all the salty air blowing about I was wondering if anyone could suggest somewhere close to me (North Essex or close by) that was reputable, who could clean up the chassis and seal it.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks.

[bushwhacker]

If you fancy getting down and dirty why not have a go your self.

Get it well steam washed,a set of small car ramps chock the lower wheels and hand brake on, do the back first (as it will be the worst) get a scraper or old wood chisel on a 3 foot shaft so you don't have to lay right under falling dirt. Finish with matt, semi or gloss paint in your choosen colour. You don't need to do it all in one go and sicken your self.

When that is done get some waxoil type stuff and pump it in through every hole you can find.

Reccomend these ppe items

Boiler suit buttoned to the neck, hat, gloves and safety glasses.

[joe1]

Personally I wouldn't bother trying to seal it with paint or any other paint-like coating - it will just continue to rust underneath whatever coating is put on. And it will also rust from the inside out, and also in between the welded longitudinal seams on the chassis. We've all seen vehicles that have been extensively 'undersealed' that are completely rotten underneath

The end result is that even if you spend money on fancy coatings the rust will still continue underneath. Its an old debate about the virtues of waxoyl vs old engine oil vs Dinitrol (or whatever other product you care to insert) as you can read on this forums and others. Different people have different views. I just spray old engine oil with a compressor which blasts it into most reachable places at 90psi. But good luck with whatever you choose.

[Tal]

Personally I wouldn't bother trying to seal it with paint or any other paint-like coating - it will just continue to rust underneath whatever coating is put on. And it will also rust from the inside out, and also in between the welded longitudinal seams on the chassis. We've all seen vehicles that have been extensively 'undersealed' that are completely rotten underneath

The end result is that even if you spend money on fancy coatings the rust will still continue underneath. Its an old debate about the virtues of waxoyl vs old engine oil vs Dinitrol (or whatever other product you care to insert) as you can read on this forums and others. Different people have different views. I just spray old engine oil with a compressor which blasts it into most reachable places at 90psi. But good luck with whatever you choose.

In my experience the ones that have been covered in underseal like that have been caked in it specifically to hide the rust.

I'm afraid i don't know anyone in your area Spiker but I do agree with bushwacker and anything you can do to stop the rust is good, but give it plenty of time to dry before you put sealer or paint anywhere.

The whole point is to seal water out not seal it in. if you seal any in you are definitely causing yourself more trouble and quickly too.

Also if you can use hot sealant/ oil or paint onto warm metal it will help it bond with any bare steel. Also if you do paint the chassis underseal over the top of it, to help stop stones chipping the paint.

[bushwhacker]

Iv'e thought about cutting some square holes in the bottom of the chassis at the lowest points to assist getting water out.

The chassis area around the drain points could be beefed up.

It's just a thought mind, there could be too many ramifications insurance and mot ing.

[Snagger]

Drilling a few large holes in the low spots would be better than cutting squares - circular holes don't concentrate stresses like corners do.

I was about to recommend Rustmaster near Hatfield, who did a great job on my wife's 90, but a google search to check the name shows he's filed for insolvency.

[bushwhacker]

Drilling a few large holes in the low spots would be better than cutting squares - circular holes don't concentrate stresses like corners do.

Well I didn't know that.

Thanks

[Snagger]

Bushwhacker, you can use a step cutter, which is essentially a stepped conical drill bit, to make a 1/2" hole at each low spot - that's all it'll need.

Spiker, a thorough wash out inside and out with clean mains water is important to get mud and salt off. Let it dry fully before applying wax. Nene Overland have a Waxoil workshop in Peterborough, but Dinitrol is a better product (it's what Boeing use on their airliners), and I'm no fan of Nene. Given your location, I'd recommend Richard at Glencoyne Engineering.

[Davo]

Bushwhacker, you can use a step cutter, which is essentially a stepped conical drill bit, to make a 1/2" hole at each low spot - that's all it'll need.

Spiker, a thorough wash out inside and out with clean mains water is important to get mud and salt off. Let it dry fully before applying wax. Nene Overland have a Waxoil workshop in Peterborough, but Dinitrol is a better product (it's what Boeing use on their airliners), and I'm no fan of Nene. Given your location, I'd recommend Richard at Glencoyne Engineering.

Yup, I've done that as well. It's very messy with the amount of really hot metal chips that fly off, but quick.