Htownscott Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Here is my beauty. Its S3 petrol 83-84 CKD and based on Rego about August 1984 for first registration in NZ. It's a project and i bought it a couple months ago with a seized engine. Engine has been freed and got it going with a little bit of ether to clear out the cobwebs. It hardly smokes so that's a bonus, however seems to be a "lightweight" model based on the amount of holes in the chassis :). Bought it for the challenge and its got overdrive so worth the admission price. Today I struck my first problem, having got it running I pulled all the wheels off and put it up on blocks to check the drive train. Not a lot happened when I put it in gear apart from stalling. I pulled up the floor and can see the shaft spin into the transfer case and I got a tiny bit of movement at the wheels. He's my question could the clutch plate be stuck? I'm not that technical and have no experience to go by. Cheers for any info. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 If it's been stood for a while, then yes, the plate sticks to the flywheel through corrosion. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Isn't this the handbrake seized on? (On the transfer box output to the rear wheels). I'm not sure how anyone can see " the shaft spin into the transfer case ". Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I'm not too sure, but if it was the handbrake, wouldn't the front wheels still turn provided you had 4WD selected of course? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Htownscott Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 Thanks for the input guys I'm not very good at explaining, especially when I say "into" instead of "out" of the transfer case. I bleed the clutch on the chance it was the issue, but no change. I'll look adjusting the throw of the clutch pedal next and also check the hand brake as it didn't cross my mind that it could be stuck too. I'm now thinking the clutch isn't releasing properly as I can spin the wheels when its in gear, should have already checked that. The clutch must be letting a little power through when its running. I hadn't realised it wasn't going into gear now because we put it in gear, reverse and third, when we unseized the engine. This might have killed the clutch I suppose as it had sat for a number of years. I've also noticed the lever for hi/low just drops down, doesn't stay up which seems wrong. Of note this is my first land rover apart from a borrowed one when I was in the UK and I never used the transfer case. I'd like to get the wheels to turn before I start to do the restoration, purely to put a smile on my face. Either way I'll start stripping it down in the new year when shed space is freed up. I have a lead on a chassis that was galvanised many years ago but needs work and is less swiss cheese than mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 15 hours ago, Les Henson said: I'm not too sure, but if it was the handbrake, wouldn't the front wheels still turn provided you had 4WD selected of course? Les. No, because the Series vehicles have no centre differential. If 4WD is selected all four wheels are controlled by the hand brake. That is, all 4 tyres have to skid across the ground for the vehicle to move when under pull from a winch, say. "I'm now thinking the clutch isn't releasing properly as I can spin the wheels when its in gear, " This is normal; when the vehicle has all four wheels off the ground, as yours is. With the car in gear, or the handbrake seized on, as you turn one wheel the other wheel on the axle rotates in the opposite direction, through the action of the free axle differential. " I've also noticed the lever for hi/low just drops down, doesn't stay up which seems wrong. " The hi/low control stays up because of the spring beneath the knob bearing against the gearbox tunnel. If the spring is missing, or broken, or the tunnel has been removed for access, then it's normal for the hi/low control to stay down. " Of note this is my first land rover " We kind of guessed :-) Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 16 hours ago, Les Henson said: I'm not too sure, but if it was the handbrake, wouldn't the front wheels still turn provided you had 4WD selected of course? Les. No, as the front output shaft is locked to the rear shaft. It would on an LT230 with the centre diff open, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 10 hours ago, Htownscott said: Thanks for the input guys I'm not very good at explaining, especially when I say "into" instead of "out" of the transfer case. I bleed the clutch on the chance it was the issue, but no change. I'll look adjusting the throw of the clutch pedal next and also check the hand brake as it didn't cross my mind that it could be stuck too. I'm now thinking the clutch isn't releasing properly as I can spin the wheels when its in gear, should have already checked that. The clutch must be letting a little power through when its running. I hadn't realised it wasn't going into gear now because we put it in gear, reverse and third, when we unseized the engine. This might have killed the clutch I suppose as it had sat for a number of years. I've also noticed the lever for hi/low just drops down, doesn't stay up which seems wrong. Of note this is my first land rover apart from a borrowed one when I was in the UK and I never used the transfer case. I'd like to get the wheels to turn before I start to do the restoration, purely to put a smile on my face. Either way I'll start stripping it down in the new year when shed space is freed up. I have a lead on a chassis that was galvanised many years ago but needs work and is less swiss cheese than mine. The clutch will have enough residual grip that with the wheels removed, the gears may still turn slowly and turn the hubs with the clutch pressed down. The engine shouldn't stall with the hand brake on or the wheels on the ground and the clutch pedal pressed down, though. It's likely the flywheel has rusted, as mentioned above, and also likely the hydraulics need replacing (cylinders and flexible hose). The high/low range selector is the steel lever with the red knob closest to your clutch pedal. By the flopping remark, I suspect you're talking about the 4wd high range selector, which a vertically sliding rod with yellow knob. It sounds like you are missing either the spring that envelopes the rod or the funnel shaped fitting that supports the bottom of the spring above the tunnel side plate (looks like a small funnel). Make sure you read up on how to use these levers correctly as you can break things if you don't understand their correct use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Htownscott Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share Posted December 25, 2016 Turns out 2 things were at play here. The handbrake may have jammed on. It wasn't releasing that well when I checked it. Also being up on blocks meant I couldn't see all wheels so when I ran it up I could only see the rear drivers hub. Once my brother was down for xmas I got it started and was in business. Next a check of the brakes and I'll try getting it to move under its own steam :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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