dave88sw Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Hi, A friend of mine is having trouble with his EDC disco. For a little while now it would randomly put the hazards on while driving (i assumed the inertia sensor in the 10as unit is a bit sensitive), he's been living with it by unplugging the 10as once the car is started. However, he returned to the car earlier and it no longer reacts to the fob (nor does the central locking work on the key) and therefore won't crank. My thoughts are that the 10AS has given up, but is there anything else to check first? Also, would i be right in thinking that if he could buy a 10AS with a paired working fob it should just be plug and play? I probably shouldn't ask on an open forum but does the immobiliser cut power to anything other than the stop solenoid and starter? If it comes to it i could bypass these and get him on the road while sourcing parts to fix it properly, he would like the central locking to work. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 Just to update this, i popped round to see him last night and had a quick look at it, i thought it was worth a check of the fuses. Number 1 in the lower satellite fuse box had blown which the manual states is for the "anti theft system". Replaced this and it's all working fine. A little bit of research on it would suggest it could be a sticky door actuator that's pulling too much load. I'll look into it further but for the moment he can use the car again. I do think it would be wise to change the 10AS though as the connector looks a bit green, so can anyone tell me if a used unit with a paired fob would work? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Yes it will. Use an identical ECU plus its matching fobs and it plug and play. There's a 'Crash' sensor within the ECU, on activation... hazards will flash and the doors will unlock, if locked. Reset is by switching ignition switch off on off, the info is in the owners handbook. The master actuator is in the drivers door, it only has a very small motor so doubtful if it's "pulling too much load" look for a partially seized locking in the drivers door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Sorry, it won't. A pair of fobs matched to a working 10AS is only part way,it will also need a little tickle on Testbook or similar to match the engine ecu to the 10AS. This needs redoing every time new fobs are coded to the 10AS as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Thanks for the replies. I know there's a crash sensor in the 10AS, it's just unfortunately his thinks a pothole is a full on motorway pile up . Not sure why it should have gotten overly sensitive but he can live with it until we can sort out replacing it. Thanks, i was thinking along those lines (i realise pulling too much load is completely the wrong terminology but didn't know how better to describe it), he did mention some of the doors often fail to lock or lock with a hefty clunk, unfortunately it's a 5 door so there are plenty of door cards to take off if it isn't the drivers door. Thanks for explaining that, makes life a little more difficult but if that's the case, he'll have to source one and get someone to program it for him. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I have a couple passenger doors that don't unlock/lock, it happens once a year maybe, I find a splash of wd40 down the door pin into the door clears that problem and so back to normal. It could be that the doors actuator requires a slight readjustment, for that the door card does have to be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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