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  2. Pillar drill old or new?

    I have a JET 17 from Axminster, got it reduced as it had been opened on the dockside apparently. It was all still packed ok it's just the box had been rooted in and it had different tape on. It was about £300 from memory and it was a lot of metal for the money, about 85kg from memory. I bought it as it would go down to a much lower RPM than most on the market which is good for holesaws etc and it had a more powerful motor. The frames and tables on old drills are usually more rigid which is why people like them. The downside for me was all the industrial auctions are now all online so buying an old drill from auctions is 3 days off work, 1 to view it, 1 to bid and 1 to collect. If you don't view it and it's had a hard life you've just wasted a lot of time to fill your garage with work. Atleast buying new you know what your going to get. If it's near you and you can go with a dial gauge to see if there's any play then by all means go for it. I would also find out what speeds it will run at and look those up against a drill speed chart to make sure it can drill the sizes you want in the materials you want.
  3. Today
  4. Pillar drill old or new?

    I’ve got a Clarke floor standing one had it about 5 years and it’s a good piece of kit for home workshop use it’s all you need can find the model number for you if you want but won’t be till tomorrow as I’m at work now .
  5. Viscous Fan wobble

    Noticed a knocking coming from the front. There is play in the fan and its hitting the cowling on top. The fan is on tight but there is some movement when its still so assuming its the bearings in the fan. Is this a new fan job or can you get new bearings?
  6. Looking at getting a pillar drill. There is an Elliot Progress near me that seems in good order that would need a belt guard and chuck guard and an e stop button fitting but that’s not too hard or I could machine mart or a Axminster. My budget is up to about £400. I won’t be doing a lot on it should I admit to myself I just need a hobby spec machine ?
  7. Discovery 2 front window and rear step

    Hi, it's most likely the window regulator. Very common, if you do a search on various sites. For the door card removal - try and use the proper removal tool, although I'd still get a few spare fasteners as they easily break. Griff
  8. Rotodama Rediscovery

    That's a great idea - I've scrapped lots of Discoveries just for engine conversions, the bodies are generally well past saving but pretty much without exception the chassis and running gear are tip top. A camper bodied version would work very well.
  9. Another small accessories outfit

    the issue with removing them is that it speeds up wearing out the inner brake pads, ive actually gone as far as refitting them on my U4 car so the the pads will last a weekend
  10. Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    PPPPPP covers it
  11. iOS App resurrected

    I suppose there's no plans to do an Android one?
  12. Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    Now there's some wisdom! Reminds me of similar results marshalling one of the Slindon challenges - the big boys ploughed in and made a spectacular mess, the two lads in the stock-ish truck walked it, talked it, thought about it, and THEN drove it and got one of the best times of the day
  13. What he said - and if possible, trade the MS3 for an MS1 as it's massively over-complicated for a Rover. Hell, it's massively over-complicated for an F1 car.
  14. Disco 4.0 V8 overheating issue - help please!

    It's a 4.0, if you have a flat tyre everyone will tell you it's because of a slipped liner had that with my 4.6's and the Freelanders, when you pick a lump with known issues everyone can't wait to tell you it's f***ed, or that it will explode any minute and kill many innocent kittens. So far they have all turned out to be 100% wrong, so ignore them and be methodical. If memory serves, a slipped liner would steam-clean the bore/piston so you can look for that with a spark plug spanner and a torch. If you've got doubts, Banda engineering in Portsmouth are your guys, they know their stuff and are embarrassingly cheap for engine work. If you're likely to have to pull the lump anyway, pull it out and give it to them for a coat of looking at. By way of example, they have charged mates in the region of £40 to test TDi heads, charged me all of £40 to remove and helicoil a snapped inlet manifold stud from my 4.6 (without removing the heads!).
  15. Rotodama Rediscovery

    A camper version might be more viable as the only market I can see for it at present is tree surgeon. But I do quite like it styling aside. Mike
  16. Rotodama Rediscovery

    Simple, a vehicle for getting large loads of logs out of a (privately owned and carefully managed) forest.
  17. RRC Based 88" Buggy

    I also want the winch off the front, but still have a front winch. yes, I am aware of the irony of inventing a sliding fairlead only to change to ‘vector’ Anyhoo, two hours fun involving wrecking a 40mm hole saw and beating the life out of the LHD internal brace it is mostly out
  18. RRC Based 88" Buggy

    Too long Well, to be precise, we were nose diving at Sunday’s trial with Shropshire Off Road Club. So I came home and cut the front off. I need it to cut-and-doze rather than slap-and-climb. (If that makes sense)
  19. Rotodama Rediscovery

    I'm curious as to what you'd make out of an old Disco and an old builder's truck that wouldn't be better served by just using the Disco or the builder's truck complete?
  20. Rear disc conversion

    Rear discs via lr parts on a series salisbury for reference................ Been away too long from here................... Grem
  21. Another small accessories outfit

    I've never known anyone actually care about brake stone guards, most people remove them.
  22. Summer Sisters - Wales off-road weekend, 23-24 June

    Well we're back from LeMans, so time to turn the ambulance around & head off to Wales! Aiming to be in the Gwyn Arms before last food orders on Friday, fingers crossed.
  23. New Series - RR Heavy

    Yep YT I feel are playing games. First there was a 'glitch' which meant notifications didn't go out for a few episodes and now they've changed the setting yet again so that it's not enough anymore that you've subscribed AND clicked the bell to select 'all notifications', now you have to click it a second time to make it 'ring'. It's hard to swallow. Anyway here's the latest, the RR is in reassembly!
  24. Another small accessories outfit

    I've use sintered silencers on breathers as they're cheap, small, push fit or threaded and do ok against the mud etc. It wouldn't be hard to put it a little higher up but I imagine most Australians have 4x4s not to play and try and get stuck in neck deep water but simply to get around in the big muddy bit in the middle of the country so I expect if your there on your own you aim for the dry bit not the deep muddy bit so bonnet deep is probably ample? I think Australia is generally a fairly expensive place to live. I think it's a big place with not that many people so they need to generate a lot of tax to maintain a good standard of living and the workers get wages to match. It also reduces the economies of manufacture and if you import stuff you still have a high cost to ship it around the country. I know I've look at importing things from there before for other hobbies and it's always expensive.
  25. Rotodama Rediscovery

    Now that's a sensible idea. Lash together the non-fubared bits of an old discovery and an old builders pickup truck. I'm all for recycling old vehicles into something more usable, without throwing away and buying huge new chunks.
  26. The servo is not on the rear brakes, it is on the whole system. However, if misadjusted, it could be just affecting one circuit. The master cylinder has two pistons, the first pushed directly by the output rod of the servo. This powers the front brakes, but also applies hydraulic pressure to the back of the second piston which applies the rear brakes. If the front circuit develops a leak, the first piston will directly push the second, but there will be a small amount of lag and pedal travel will be longer for the same pressure in the rear circuit. If for any reason one of those pistons isn't fully retracting, then the brakes could be held on to some degree, and from the system description above, you can see that all would be applied if it was the first piston failing to retract (from internal failure or servo issues), so it does suggest that the second piston (nearest the radiator) for the rear lines is at fault if the front brakes are not binding. Similar symptoms could occur for any other failure in the circuit that traps pressure, but I can only think of a degraded flexi hose or a fault in the PWDA valve doing that.
  27. Another small accessories outfit

    Certainly expensive for most of it, but I have no idea how it compares locally. I though the brake shield reinforcers looked useful, having seen a lot of broken shields on overland vehicles, and they're not especially dear. I like the look of the wading stuff and haven't seen sintered filters in that application before, but I can't see the point in only raising them that far. I just thought I'd mention them just incase anyone wanted parts along those lines as I'd never heard of the vendor until some discussions with some overlanders about the reinforcers.
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