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  1. Today
  2. Appearance mainly. You either like it or you don't, like a lot of things added or done to Defenders etc. The window aperture remains the same size but there's nothing to stop you enlarging it if you wanted. Providing, of course, sufficient remains for the window bonding to be adequate
  3. Keep a double glassing salesman who cold called on the phone for over half an hour once even passed him over to my "neighbor" to answer the door, we both agreed to have conservatories and agreed for the engineer to come round to measure up, he was quite happy until he asked me to confirm the address and I read him out a lat and long, asked again I repeated the coordinates, then told him he had rung the direct line for a logging unit in the middle of the North Sea and he was quite welcome to send the engineer. He hung up hard!. Kept us entertained for a while though on a quite shift.
  4. Yesterday
  5. As long as they’re nice and tight (a big grunt on a decent sized ratchet) I don’t think it’s a particularly critical figure.
  6. What is the benefit to this? Is there a bigger window aperture? Looks very fragile to me and I'm not sure of the benefit? Not trying to be negative but not sure of the selling point
  7. Thanks Western. Did them up to 45Nm earlier today. Must say that even felt it was likely to cave in the chassis. Not sure about 75Nm for the nut on the bottom of the shock absorber either. Wow! My WSM states 37Nm - 1996 300Tdi Had a bit more digging around in the internet. Wondering if your WSM if for a 90/110 and perhaps different to Defender in this regard? Simon...
  8. Hi , thanks for the reply. I have traced the red /white wire from the ignition switch to a relay then out of the relay it becomes black/yellow. This wire runs to the round plug pictured. The starter wire is dead until I bridge it with a piece of wire to the brown /orange wire. This is the same colour wire as the one that goes to the inhibitor switch. Once its bridged the starter wire becomes live when the key is turned to the cranking position. I was hoping someone had a 1992 model and could loom at their wiring to see if they have this plug too. Thanks Neil
  9. None at all. Complete coverage front to back and gutter to waist line.
  10. Another trialling mod was to use Transit single leaf front springs on IIRC the rear?
  11. ....full order book then A thread on the 109 ( and the 88 too!) when you can - I've got a 68 88 tidy up to get around to posting , it's nearly done so when finished I might have more time to sort it out . Steve
  12. If it works it can't be knocked 😉, I can hear my late Father chuckling '.... crude can be effective you know...'
  13. Thanks Steve. Yes it is. We are fortunate to have a big shed to keep it in. So it’s always dry stored when not being used. the next project is the brothers 109 2a rebuild and the other brother whom needs took his hybrid swimming and the engine drank some river water.
  14. It's in my manual, Torque wrench setting Section 06, page 8, Photo of the page & a close up above the yellow pencil 64Nm
  15. That was a good find , I'd imagine it is pretty rust free having been away from road salt for a big chunk of it's life . Very nice 88 indeed . thanks for the pic. Steve
  16. Is it an easy job? I've read getting the arm off can be a bit tricky.
  17. Hi guys I've been thinking for a while now about buying an old chest of draws and putting all my tools in it as my old Snapon roll cab and Superpro topbox just isn't big enough anymore, so has anyone got any pic's of what they use please for insperation 😁
  18. Checked both of ours over last weekend ready for the Billing ( farm ) show in two weeks time and today i went to move mine and realised i had or thought i had a bad water leak where the landy had been parked all week but it turned out to be a fuel leak off pipe that had split, there was enough on the pipe to cut back and refit but will replace them all before we go ☹️
  19. Thanks, It’s a 1966 2a. Not sure if that’s early or not to be honest. It’s still got the original solex, we have a Weber and did intend to swap but the solex has been fine, so haven’t seen the need it’s got a genuine 37000 on the clock. We had to register it with the Dvla for road use, it was used at silverstone as a fire tender, then someone bought it stripped it but never put it back together. When he bought it, it came as load of spares in boxes etc. That was 15 years ago. We have photos somewhere, but I would need to dig through a HDD.
  20. If you look in the workshop manual there is a table of torque settings for generic bolts which do not have a specific torque. M10 is 45nm
  21. The best riding series I’ve had was a 2A lightweight modified for trialling with military spring hangers front and rear, with front dumb irons modified to military Spec with increased drop. It had custom elliptical leaf springs but with only three leaves - the 7.50 tyres would contact the tub on articulation, and it rode like a well sorted coiler. Was also running an SU carb on tweaked 2286 petrol with full cage, tank in rear load bed, ignition coil mounted in cab and a host of other well thought out mods. The rear springs are visible in the photo below I sometimes regret rebuilding it back to standard(ish) onto a new Richards chassis and Rocky Mountain 2 leaf parabolics now.
  22. Hi Folks, Looking for the torque settings for the 3 bolts for the rear shock absorber mount bracket to the chassis. Nothing mentioned in the WSM. Thanks, Simon... 1997 Defender 110 300Tdi
  23. Good work , that looks like an early 2a or even a 2 from the bulkhead engine bay shot ? Is it still running the Solex carb? A few full vehicle pic's would be nice to see if possible , early Series 2/2a are such good looking Land Rovers Steve
  24. I’ve just rebuilt two 4 bolt boxes for spares. The shafts were worn and pitted at the bottom so I had the seal area ground and chrome plated (£45 per shaft locally) All new Koyo shaft needle bearings were £35 the set (B2012, B2016 and B2020 bearings). Corteco full seal / O ring kit was £17. I did strip a third box down which ironically I thought would be the best as was the newest off my Puma but that had suffered one of the shaft needle bearings breaking up and had scored the shaft on the bearing surfaces rendering the shaft scrap.
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