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  2. I've done some cursory searching and cannot find anything, so posting here. I bought EXT00914 - you can find details here but the short version is a 3-peice mat, top layer of rubber with a bottom layer of foam. It's meant to do the job of sound deadening and a mat in one which is why I bought it. There are three things you need to know if you are considering this: 1. It was not cheap 2. It does not come cut to size 3. It flipping STINKS. I left it in my house in the box for a couple of days and the smell lingered for a good while after - I hope it's going to vent off before I put the roof on the car... One of these facts should mean the other two are not a problem I have to deal with, hence this post. I cannot believe a product that costs £170 doesn't come cut to size. For a start, the main bed area mat is too wide, the wheel arch mats are too long AND need to be cut at an angle to butt up against the wheel arch ends as they come as just plain rectangles. To be fair, some of the sites that sell it do mention cutting is required, but only for the TD5 fuel filler position! I was glad this was the case as I didn't want to buy one with a slot I don't need, but didn't realise I would be finishing off the basic manufacturing process. From what I read, this is so that the mat can fit 110 and 90 wheel arches but that doesn't excuse it being wrong in the fixed dimensions for all models - the width. So before I start cutting, does anyone have any experience with these mats? It's the long edges that I now have to cut that really concern me as it's impossible to get a perfect line on a surface that has lumps moulded into it. Pictures to follow...
  3. Do you have the nuts off? If so, yes, tap the housing and it should work loose. It is a good time to drill and tap the manifold for an EGT gauge if you ever want one.
  4. Note: Front corner of the seat box where it meets the sill . Series one 88” For many a year I designed sheet metalwork for heat exchangers and I’m sure the side is off (or the front panel) The sill has a relief pressed into it to take the bottom edge of the front panel. Looking at the complete seat box assembly the front edge that screws to the floor needs to be lower than the side edge that bolts to the galvanised sill. I don’t see as I am as far off as I have seen today? I used the old part as a template? Conclusion is that a new side needs to be a few mm shorter than the original. I fixed it the same they would have in the factory, I hit it with a hammer and a block
  5. Hi all, So after Some fiddling I took of the whole manifold as red90 suggested. Two of the turbo bolts where stuck And broke. With a lot of penetrating oil And Some luck I got all the ends out. now I just have to “split” the turbo houding. Is this a case of more oil And Some light tappend with a wooden hammer?
  6. A long time ago I had a Sunbeam Rapier series 4, which had a Laycock overdrive. That had the problem that the car would run in the low ratio (direct) after starting up, but after engaging O/D, would not disengage until the car had been stopped and left for a while, and then after restarting would repeat the process. Turned out to be a tiny piece of friction material stuck in the dashpot/relief valve, not allowing the oil pressure to release. Probably not your problem, but worth a look ? I do remember when reassembling, winding down the case against the spring pressure
  7. Today
  8. The idea to check the disengaged pressure is a good one. Almost worth running it with the engagement pistons removed. anyway, completely understand you’ve had enough of it for now....
  9. Given it's always been like that then maybe a shim to the outside of the chassis between the wing might sort it.
  10. Please confirm it's a TD5 and do you have a wire popping up through the access plate under the centre seat / cubby box. (Near the front of the panel, left side of vehicle) If there is a collection of shielded wires there follow to the end and hopefully they will have your OBD socket on there. If no wires popping up through the panel they may have dropped it under the panel, above the transfer box, for additional security !
  11. Thanks looked there to no avail think it might be a case of it being moved elsewhere to avoid theft ?
  12. It's been like this since I've had it Ed... This pic is from the winch installation something like 5 years ago... I've climbed all over it and the angle of dangle hasn't altered so don't think it's related to anything heavy on the wings.. 🤣
  13. Plus something between them to stop the first one coming out before the rest have moved! Worst case, weld a bolt into the cup of the piston, and yank it out
  14. Gallery seals are 17H8764L on page 507 of 1987 onwards 110 parts book. Any of the LR parts suppliers can sort some for you, 2 per caliper standard solid disc or 4 per caliper for vented disc.
  15. Uncle - those folks over at Defender2 who are fastidious over things looking straight and flush (my wing isn't after today ) have a thread on this. Basically it requires a few "shims" (washers) on the bottom bolt that goes through to the sticky up bit on the chassis. Having said that you can probably just pick up the bottom corner and lift it back into shape. Not leant on it too heavily recently?
  16. Santana was a Rover licenced copy, as was Phaser(spelling). Austin became part of British Leyland, with Rover, so I expect the IP aspect of that amalgamation/disaggregation is probably totally covered.
  17. It works not a great photo but you get the idea two unirover rims with 36's on, some ballast to fab for a bit of counterbalance now just to make the whole Heath Robinson look a bit more respectable regards Stephen
  18. That looks so much better , great job. cheers Steve b
  19. I wonder if they had been successful if they would have then tried to retrospectively sued Austin and Santana? 🙃
  20. JLR were attempting to trademark not only the Defender shape, but all Land Rovers back to the Series 1.
  21. Some progress ! the previous owner had shims welded to the slam panels sides. So i cut them, straighten the slam panel. Shimmed 3 to 4MM the lower front bolt of the left wing and attach the slam panel without any shims. First i bolted it to the right wing and then i bolted the left wing and it forced the wing to align perfectly. With a spirit lever i compared the leveling of the front fender to the top of the wing and it's spot on ! Now i have to find the way to make the right wing nice and straight... obviously i can't use the same technique...
  22. Yes, got the DS-B model on the 127 Ambulance and (touch wood) it's been flawless - that's behind a 4.6 V8 in a ~3ton vehicle. It's a real shame about the current state of crappy bearings but I guess Britpart can ruin anything
  23. I'm too tight to pay someone to do them! Will get one out of the electrolysis bath tonight, dry it off and give it a quick shot blast to clean off Then the age old question....do I split the calipers or not? If I do where do I get the gallery seals?, if I don't - how do I easily pop the pistons out now they are not connected?
  24. The original doubler was sawn through and flattened, so that they could bolt the two halves back together. I considered replacing the whole doubler, but that’s a lot of distortion, so I made an over-plate part. I can’t escape the fact that their butchery for easy gearbox access was very nearly a good idea? Removing the drivers side gets you no where because of the fuel tank. It can stay separate.
  25. elbekko

    help

    Yup, it's still going strong. Some things even started working again after that, like the mirror dip...
  26. My panel was pre-wired with about a metre of each polarity cable and with MC4 connectors (one plug and one socket to preserve polarity). You will need to extend these and cables to do this are freely available with a matching plug and socket on one end, which just push together and clip. Be careful as this then swaps the polarity. You can put what you want on the other, such as the Anderson you have suggested. I have wondered about opening the connector box on the back of my panel and hard wiring into there to cut-out the connector. This though would prevent the panel from being removed easily. There are some warnings about disconnecting solar panels when they are 'under load' but I don't know if that means that they should be shaded when you do so. It might determine whether an Anderson connector is suitable or whether the smaller MC4 are enough. There's a decision to make about cable cross section but I think 2.5 mm2 is sufficient unless you are "going portable" with a longer run when maybe a thicker cable is needed.
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