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  3. I’ never seen anyone else running 8.25 x 16 not even sure you can get them these days. On the farm we had a set of 5 XZL’s in this size. I really liked them. More narrow than a 255 but tall. Fitted my Series III lovely and I used them as a green laning tyre. We still have one that is practically unused. But 2 are very worn now and haven’t been able to source anymore.
  4. The liner in the last photo has certainly slipped. Given the reputation later engines have for slipped liners, I’d be looking at having all of them replaced with top hat liners, to head off future problems. If you can remove that slipped liner first, it’d give you an idea of whether the block is worth the cost of doing that. Hopefully, the rest of it is good to be reused with little more than new shells and seals. That tapper bore looks reparable. It can be over bored and sleeved, or tug welded and rebored. I’m not that familiar with V8s - is that bore for a hydraulic tapper, needing a good seal, or is it just for a n operating rod with no seal? If the latter, I’d just nib the bur and leave it- as it is a gouge, not a crack.
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  6. Despite what the seller might say, I personally would NEVER install an unknown (to me) Rover V8 nowadays without stripping it first. They are all getting on a bit now, and EVERY one I have ever had has one problem or another. In my experience you will always need a new camshaft and followers as a minimum. Liners do NOT have to drop to give problems. If you look at your photo, you will see a small black line on the outer edge of the liner at the 7 'o' clock position, inline with the head bolt hole. This is where the water will be coming up when the engine is at working temperature. The cleaning of the pistons biased toward that flaw, so IMO there is a problem. Liners that have moved do not necessarily give problems. Its the cracks behind them that is the problem. Only way to check for sure, is to pressure test it with the block hot. If it leaks, it is either scrap or have it top hatted. It will cure the problem permanently, its a well known and easy fix, but its whether you want to pay for it. However, I would be more concerned about the tappet bore. I am not sure if it can be sleeved. Its not worth buying another block or engine if you want a 4.6, which more like as not will have something wrong in the same way, you may as well fix what you have.
  7. Well done! At least you have eliminated that problem, Cheers Charlie
  8. Many thank for your reply, so the vents must be handed (?) whereas my '87 must have two the same. I'll have to do a part # search Your help is appreciated.
  9. How does that work? Is that black cap the pressure cap? I kept the series radiator with my TDI.
  10. The 255/85/16 is a very good tyre, as mentioned, especially if you run stock axles. If you are willing to upgrade, it is in my opinion 285/85/16 or 35*10.5*16 in old money. 9.00x16 is also good, but hard to get. It seems the larger diameters have very little choice in thread patterns unfortunately. Does anyone on here have experience with 8.25 x 16 tyres? How do they compare with 255/85/16? For wheels, it is very personal, but original land rover wheels do look right on a land rover in my opinion. Just get them banded to achieve the right offset and width.
  11. I would expect it to be cleaner if steam cleaned, to be honest - are you sure it is not just oil contamination or maybe a leaky injector? Top hat liners mean the gasket fire rings seal on the lipped section of the liner, so if anything did leak round, it won't get into the combustion chamber, and if it tried to go anywhere else well there is still gasket in the way.
  12. the black plastic tanks have been known to split along the seams, but the translucent tanks seem to be fine.
  13. blue arrow side goes in front of the diff housing, so the rod moves away then back in to avoid the diff.
  14. Had my X brake for over 10 years, never had a problem with the pads & never had to replace them, one of the best additions I've done to my 110. reckon the guy in that video has over adjusted it & the pads don't clear from the disc when handbrake is off.
  15. Hi, my n/s slider is closed when moved to the right, o/s closed when pushed to the left, 1988 efi v8, dd
  16. Hi, I removed the seat belt brackets from my rear tub and ended up sweeping a fair bit of my wheel box off the drive as it had magically turned to dust. What's my best option for repair? I had a look at YRM to see if they do a panel but couldn't find anything. Should I just get a sheet cut to size and rivet it over the top or is there are more elegant repair? Thanks, Heds
  17. Yep so that does make sense for the blue arrow on pic is the side that goes nearest diff
  18. It’s left hand drive vehicles that need the bend in the rod, on a right hand drive that side of the rod is on the chassis bracket which is further forwards but on a left hand drive that side is on the axle bracket further aft and right close to the diff, so the bend is needed to clear it. That’s why on the later 2002-on rods the RHD version is a straight tube but the LHD still has the bend. It’s just that on earlier models they only had one common part, so on RHD the bend is superfluous.
  19. That rather illustrates the point, though, that it is a road car that has to be specifically added to in order to be proficient off-road, especially the big engined model which will always be hobbled by bad tyres and wheels. The most important element of an off road vehicle is the tyres. Get those right and you don’t need electronics. Get it wrong, and even the electronics can’t save you, as happened in that video.
  20. It’ll be obvious when you fit it; that bend is specially to clear the diff pan, so is on the vehicle’s right side and bows toward the bumper. I’m not sure if left hand drive vehicle have that bow in the rod.
  21. The product has an excellent reputation, the only minor common complaint being a light rattle which is easily cured by bonding the pads to the calliper pistons as reb said.
  22. And then some people chopped a huge section out of the rear end and called the Bob tails.
  23. Hi, thought this thread would get more exposure here on the 'International forum', can be moved if a mod wants. The knowledgable folk at Defender2 have been giving me some pointers regarding my possible 300Tdi to V8 conversion. However I know there are some V8 gurus here also and my recent posts on D2 haven't been replied to yet. I bought this complete ebay engine a few weeks ago, a 4.6 from a 1997 GEMS p38. A reputable seller with 100% feedback who said that engine ran very well/lovely. Although the price was such that the engine could be dropped straight in, when it arrived I proceeded to strip it down because if it was to be replacing my 300Tdi, it may as well be refreshed to make it as worthwhile as possible. I was happy with the wear conditions of various bits, anyway when I removed the heads I saw that the piston of cylinder 5 had the classic 'steam cleaned' appearance. The liner of cylinder 5 seems very much so to be flush with the top of the block, certainly more than cylinder 8's liner where the drop is noticeable (piston 8 looks normal). The head gaskets look pretty much perfect also. I'm therefore a bit puzzled why piston 5 has this appearance. Could it be possible/likely for there to be a crack elsewhere (inlet manifold maybe) allowing water to get in, or could a crack in the block still be getting through to cylinder 5? In getting top hat liners, what's there to stop cracks in the block from getting worse and worse and causing problems in another way? Also pictured is some damage to one of the tappet bores, thoughts? It looks like the engine/block must have been a LR warranty exchange, going by the plaque? The works seems to have been done in around 2000/2001 as suggested by a few date stamps. The water pump certainly looks very recent also. Thanks for your views.
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