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  2. I'd check that the phasing of the u/js is correct - documented in the manual. Also - try to build it back up so that the grease nipples are all more or less in line . It's obvious it's a good thing to do the first time you try to grease it in situ, saves having to rotate the shaft halfway through. Re the hub seals, you may want to consider the RTC3511 double lipped seal and cut the inner seals to let the oil through to the bearings.
  3. Interesting design especially transmission, but its so butt ugly it will just never catch on, and it will be mega expensive so military's wont touch it.
  4. Mine's a Richards, I went with them as they were the only ones which offered customisation such as the cage mounts, flush crossmember and my custom rear crossmember.
  5. Looks good James, and nice use of the height. Whats the footprint size again?
  6. I would prefer genuine, but not genuine prices. But probably worth it. I need to raid the scrap bin for an acme bit of studding, I think. Or just buy some? Then the nut becomes the issue. More thinking needed.
  7. Hi Filip, If you are not already a member join this forum specificaly for the D2 .Wealth of knowledge and free to join. http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/ Regards, Griff
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  9. I'd suggest standard bushes will do nicely for most. Hearing good things about these people : sandersonleafsprings.co.uk
  10. As we build the ABRI on a slope, we had to put the uprights (??) for the roof into the solid, original, soil and not the loose stuff we put on it to level the thing. They went down some 2 mtrs - or about 6 Ft. 5" in your money.. We did obviously do an overkill - but it makes for a very, very solid building. In your case, the digger going down should reach good solid soil and that should do. We're starting late this year on another ABRI (40x6,5x4 mtrs.) with some serious concrete floors and the uprights go into the ground about a metre. Have Fun Building !
  11. I can't see poly bushes being much good for anything. They're never as compliant, and given that the chassis suffers from fatigue cracks around the bush holes, that isn't going to end well. There's also less support for the chassis as the poly bushes don't have the outer wrapper sat snug in the hole supporting it. Making up or borrowing a tool makes it a doddle changing the standard bushes. An acme screw from any old scissor jack and a piece of pipe and washer the right size are all you need. Burning the rubber out and messing with a hacksaw blade is not my idea of fun either!
  12. Cheers teabag thought that was going to be the case , will have to see what eBay has to offer or a trip to my local fasteners shop but think the washers might be a problem as they are very thin and brass I think.
  13. My first green lane experience has demonstrated that the spring and chassis bushes are knackered. They are 8 years old and saw about 10,000 miles of use, but not genuine. So, what do I replace with? Do poly bushes last? I'm not after any changes in comfort, I just hate doing chassis bushes!
  14. I can't quite tell from the drawing but it looks as though you have the roof gables extended a little away from the gable-end walls. I like this, especially over a doorway. It's surprising how much extra shelter it provides (as long as the rain isn't driving towards the gable). I have this on my house and garage, extending a good 300mm. You do therefore have a soffit to fit and maintain but I think it look better and as I said, weatherwise it works too.
  15. Can you still access the under seat lockers with these seats?
  16. I’d start with looking at that steering - I don’t think it should be vague. All the ones I’ve driven, that haven’t had knackered joints have had really positive steering. One other option for your wife is to buy a series... My wife used to say my Td5 90 was really noisy and agricultural, 1000 miles in the series 1 later and she regularly comments on how smooth and quiet the 90 is.
  17. When removind the EGR, I always remove the cooler as well (when present). As you say, just join the water pipes. But be careful, they can be brittle and break. You can also unplug and remove the vacuum valves etc, adding more lightness. Filip
  18. Did a few more checks, unfortunatley still haven't solved the problem. - we put in a pedal from another D2, made no difference - replaced the fuel pressure regulator. It was sweating a bit, but not leaking. As it was the last part in the fuel system we hadn't replaced, it was worth a shot. Car started easily after bleeding, all seemd well. Then on the next attempt, easy start but back to limp mode for about a minute before it would respond to throttle. - an experienced (now retired) LR mechanic had a look, checked all my work, could find nothing wrong and is also at a loss... Filip
  19. Washers and the circlips for the wiper linkage aren’t shown as a replacement part in the D1 genuine parts catalogue, hence no part numbers but there’s plenty of retailers on eBay that sell washers and clips.
  20. I appreciate the early Am responses from you both , thanks. I'll have a look at that , I've already bought the fusebox , I've only just thought that to tidy it up a bit I could drill out one of holes in the spade connector and fit these , or buy a new mini fuse box where the connections screw in
  21. I have a 200tdi and a 2.4tdci, I also put a lot of work in sound proofing the 200TDI but it will never be the same as the TDCI, which is just less noisy. I've found the steering to be the same, my 200tdi is as precise as the 2.4tdci. In the end, they are both Defenders and besides engine & gearbox, not much has changed. I like driving both, but neither of them are comfort vehicles and never will be.. If the wife doesn't like it, you can't do much about it.
  22. You'll have to fit the spades with double wires - ie first one has source + feed to 2nd - 2nd has feed for 3rd as well and so on.
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