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  2. the clue is in the question SWOOSH GAUGE INSTALLATION: obviously not Land Rover??
  3. " 3l Mazda lump "........... Sniff What are the plans with that ?
  4. Today
  5. Thanks Bowie. Just to check, do you mean I need to get it back on quickly, or?
  6. I am in the middle of doing up a discovery 1 1996 and need to repair a brake line but can not work out what flaring tool i need (sae or din) any help with this would appreciated. thanks.
  7. I'm pretty sure it's got a 3l Mazda lump in it.
  8. Only a little just enough to keep the main gearbox engaged, but I don't believe that is the problem as the OD is meant to be engaged & disengaged under power without using the vehicles clutch. I will check the original rear case before fitting to see if the oil ways are clear.
  9. Love cherrypickers... Belt driven hydraulic pump in the A/C position is an option - this is obviously PTO driven. Did you mention "Mazda engine".......... šŸ˜Ž
  10. Did you have the (main) clutch engaged when letting the revs drop to idle at the give way? If so, it feeds into my theory about an intermittent blockage needing oil flow to drop to reset. If that is the case, it's either a foreign object (casting flash or core remnant, perhaps) or the solenoid is somehow randomly dropping in against its return spring when oil flow drops to zero as you come to a stop, but I think the latter unlikely.
  11. Why didnĀ“t I think of that! :-D As I said before, feels like IĀ“ve missed something obvious. IĀ“ll keep my fingers crossed and will troubleshoot focusing on the starter system. Many thankĀ“s! IĀ“ll post an update here with the results.
  12. personally i wouldnt go down that route as the box then becomes a collection of items put together to work rather than using a complete assembly either the BMW 6 speed or the R380 with an adapter plate
  13. Hi Recently purchased a winch bumper for my 90 but the mounting brackets don't align with the chassis?? Am I missing something obvious or is the wrong one for the vehicle? I purchased it off Ebay off of another defender. Help please.
  14. Yes, thatĀ“s exactly what it sounds like. ThankĀ“s, will check as soon as I get home.
  15. A few more thoughts... Is the surface it's running on smooth and ridge free? A rough, grooved surface can quickly destroy a brand new seal. Have you seated it in the correct position? I can't remember what design that one is, but occasionally it's possible to seat a seal way too far in as there's no stop and you're supposed to use a special press tool with a raised ridge and a stop to seat it. I think there's a keyway slot in the crank nose? Been a while since I had one apart. Are there any burrs or sharp edges? Is the crank straight? What brand seal are you using?
  16. Quick follow up to this, two years on: The rebuilt box is going strong. Its had a couple of oil changes with no nasties appearing and hasn't put a tooth wrong.
  17. At work now, even with the solenoid empower disabled OD slipped 5 times on the way to work, worst occurrence as pulling away from a give way line on a roundabout, took a reduction of revs to almost idle to get OD to grip & give some drive. So soly can be discounted as the cause.
  18. You, sir, are a champ! Thank you.
  19. Did you lube the inner surface of the seal with engine oil before fitting the pulley? If it is dry, the seal will generate heat and fail, causing it to leak, but in all fairness, it shouldn't be immediately when you rev it.
  20. Something like this? https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/bmw-m57-to-300tdi-r380-adaptor-kit/ From here.. https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product-category/adaptor-kits/
  21. It is a serious bitch to install these person I'm not that keen on, horrid devices.
  22. Yesterday
  23. What Gazzar said - also those colours are not LR colours; Green is switched fused ignition live in a Series, White is ignition live Red/white is gauge illumination Light green is the regulated side of the voltage regulator which you probably don't want for aftermarket gauges. Green/black is fuel sender (std S3) Green/blue is water temp (std. S3) There's no standard oil pressure sender on Series, Green/Brown was for oil temperature, the Range Rover diagram suggests light green / brown is the std. colour for oil pressure gauge.
  24. Correct, my Tdi is a 2006 model year, I bought it just before the Puma came out in case I didn't like the Puma. So it has the late axle fitted to all post 2002 vehicles. Coincidentally I also bought a late Puma in case I didn't like the next version ... which proved to be a much better judgement
  25. Don't know ATB side of things, Nige is probably best to weigh in but on the locker front he convinced me that swapping axles was a better choice. The main strength of the Salisbury diff is in the cross pin which you throw away with any conversion, ergo you don't have the main benefit anymore. The casing may be a bit stronger but is also a lot bigger and plough like. Then it came down to (for me) the locker and the various options were either rocking horse poo availability, had design faults, spares issues, or just downright expensive. The Ashcroft offering at the time hadn't been broken, was readily available and not too bad on price. My suspicion is that any ATB Salisbury component / diff is likely to have the same issues. So unless you're really wedded to keeping the axle a Salisbury then there are likely better and more cost effective options (based off very little research for ATBs).
  26. I'm curious. Are there options for the Salisbury axle?
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