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  2. There are two types of narrow track ours is a ½ton early type (50/60s) the later is ¾ton (60/70s) although there is very little difference in tub, suspension or main part of the chassis. The hitch and draw bar are quite different though mine has a tube with the hitch on top and a doing damper (this type is easily rotated to allow use of a normal height tow bar). The later type has the hitch mounted on top of a kind of A frame designed to hitch at crossmember height (I don't know if you can alter the height). They all tow better with extra hitch weight (spare wheel up front is enough) My one is 50s (early narrow track) Mike
  3. G Wagens have difflocks because they have even less articulation than is being ridiculed here - I saw one on the twist-off ramp at a show once, it was significantly out-twisted by an old 109 on stock leaves.
  4. id suspect @uninformed will need to have his mods signed off to be plated in Oz
  5. Today
  6. When I was looking for my P38 I looked at a Vogue (may have been an SE) that had this black wood trim, wasn't a special edition. I think it was an option on the very last vehicle. I tried to find a set of the black trim on ebay for mine but could never find a complete set so didn't buy them.
  7. A lot of hard work !
  8. Well, it came back with a few more holes in the than when it left... No great surprise. I've got to figure out how best to fill them now. I think I might cut the top rails off between the curves, poke a block of copper on a stick down t'hole to use as a backing pieces and weld the holes up. They'll be easy enough to dress back on the outside and weld back into place. Other bits are just bits of flat plate, so I'll probably end up just lopping out large patches and welding new in. It's obvious now that the drivers side pillar has been replaced badly, so that's coming out. I'll have to make up some kind of jig to locate the window hinge plates as I'll end up taking them off to replace the entire corner pieces. "It's only a bit of tin". Onwards and forwards. I am somewhat disappointed that they clearly didn't treat it with a lot of respect. Both of the remaining pieces of footwell have been bent and crudely bent back. Not impressed with that, it's not like it would have taken a lot to not bend them. Don't think I'll be going back.
  9. Guys Just an update on the fault, before I started going down removing the BCU unit I thought I would take a chance and put a Electric Heater inside the car, Disconnected Battery Unplugged all the connections on BCU Put electric heater in the footwell pointing up at the unit Left for couple of hours Fitted all plugs back Connected Battery Back Up Bingo it started
  10. Not rolled, but surprised. i could never work out emoji pictures too well
  11. Um having seen a G Wagon offroad they are good but they NEED those diff locks because the standard articulation is poor compared to a Defender. The OG Defender compromises the on road handling by increased articulation but keeps costs down by not fitting lockers as the vast majority of users don't need them. G Wagons improved on road handling with stiffer suspension but compromised off road as a consequence but because they are viewed as a high end product they can afford to fit lockers as standard to compensate.
  12. Narrow tracks were built to follow the wheels of series axles widths wide tracks were built to follow defender axles widths Narrow tracks are older with older brakes, tow hitch set ups but built like brick **** houses wide tracks are newer running gear with disc brakes on the latest versions I reckon unless your going to be using them at the maximum loads, either one will suit your needs
  13. They're just supposed to "match" the track of a landy, but no difference or reason you can't tow one behind the other otherwise. The wide track has a nice tailgate and hydraulic damped hitch, which is nice, but either tow well. I made a flat bed with drop sides for my narrow track and a little frame to put a canvas over. It has side bars too now and the canvas sits rather nicely. That's just an original sankey cover, but you could easily make a frame to take a landy canvas. The chap that made that cover does all kinds of clever stuff with canvas.
  14. You seemed to have asked this question on a couple of forums without any answers. From what I've seen, trying to disconnect the ram end to get a new gaiter on can be very difficult as it's very easy to round off the retaining nut on the end of the ram which is mostly recessed into the pivot. It's also very difficult to grip the ram piston adequately to prevent rotation, but without damaging the piston surface / chrome. The exposed thread the nut has to pass over is invariably very rusty & doesn't help. I also had a badly split gaiter that I was advised would fail an MOT, so I was also looking for a solution. My initial plan was to cut the old gaiter off & split the new gaiter to fit & then superglue it back together in situ. I was lucky in the end that I found a complete new Old Stock ACE ARB assembly for stupid money & replaced the lot in 1 go (it solved all sorts of noises that I hadn't realised were ARB related - lol)
  15. This could be a slippery slope to a full rebuild. I assume that the engine has been fully serviced, valve clearances checked and adjusted as required, timing has been checked and the hoses from the turbo, intercooler and manifold are in good condition?
  16. I have a roof tent that I use on the 110, but can see the advantages of mounting it on a trailer - especially for local camping trips around the Cornish coast line that are around an hour from the house. For longer trips i would probably still put it on the roof to save towing a trailer a long distance. In Mikes wanted thread recently, a few seem to have come up for sale - widetrack and narrowtrack versions. What are the technical differences?- apart from the obvious and what are the pro's and cons of each type? Will a narrow track one tow well behind a 110 (someone on the thread mentioned that wide was for the 110/90/defender vehicles and narrow was for series vehicles).
  17. Hello, i have 35 on my rr classic, but i do some body damage lolll.. i have 2" lift springs. The next tyres is 37 😉
  18. Escape

    TD5 to V8

    I had a P38a 4.6 manual, that has a R380 mated to a Borg-Warner transfer box. The ratio of the transfer box is identical, 5th gear on the R380 is higher for the V8 at 0.73 compared to 0.77 for the TD5. So overall gearing was higher than yours will be, but it coped just fine with 32" tires on, even pulling heavy trailers. My 4.0 with the same gearbox did struggle at times, but that's beause the engine is in dire need of some TLC (mainly timing gear and cam). With a decent 4.6 you should have no problems at all. To add, the ZF4HP24 autobox has the same overall gearing in top, and even when the lock-up activates the 4.6 never struggles. As said above, don't worry about the supposed problem with the engine blocks. If a V8 is still running today and you take some care of it, it will serve you for well for a long time to come. There's not much difference in the intake ducting between a GEMS and a Thor. But the Thor does leave less room between the intake manifold and bulkhead, so you might not be able to route the intake as on the Defender 50th anniversary. If you go with MS, you don't need a MAF, so less space needed. Filip
  19. Hi, I'm new here and don't own a Land Rover yet. We are looking for a Defender for an overlanding trip through southern Africa. Yesterday, we went to visit a potential candidate, a Defender 110 TD5 from 2000. It has 225,000 km on the clock and seems to be regularly maintained by a dealer and other garages. It has had its gearbox, clutch and fuel pump replaced at various stages in its life. In general we liked the car but found a few issues: Clunk from the rear when shifting gear, except if using the clutch very gently. A bit of oil hanging from the transfer case inspection cover (?), see picture, although not very clear in the picture. Oily lower side of sump pan, see picture. Are these the regular Land Rover problems/oil leaks/sounds that could be simply fixed or should we be worried? We probably have it inspected before buying but since there are other good candidates, I first want to find out as much as possibly myself before going to a garage. I have done some searching, and I found that the clunk could be the A frame balljoint, although many other problems seem to cause this. I suppose, the oil leak from the sump pan near the drain bolt can be simply from replacing the oil/leaking bolt, but then there is also traces of oil away from the bolt. Best regards, Tom
  20. Do a search on web for the flashing B or visit the d2boysclub forum. Loads of info there. Griff
  21. I have ARB's front and rear and under loaded situations they do not restrict flex much at all but do offer stability on road etc. It's always going to be a case of one thing will compromise another.. Nothing will ever be amazing off-road, climbing rocks and immediately the best mannered road vehicle. Each of us choose a compromise.
  22. Morning all, I have a 300tdi conversion in my 90 but it’s currently off the road so I’m looking at giving it some tlc. it runs okay and there’s nothing actually wrong other than a feeling of being slightly down on power compared to my other 300 and sounding slightly rougher at idle. id like to give it a little overhaul without going crazy and was thinking of a set of rings and big end bearings, check the valve seats etc. While the head is off and measure the bores with the pistons out, obviously of anything is obviously off it will be a full rebuild or sorting the issues but would I notice any improvement simply in doing rings and big ends and having the injectors and fuel pump refurbished? jamie
  23. I find it hard to compare that to the new picture -the back left wheel on yours looks to be carrying less weight than in the other pic - and not be fully compressed. Is that with ARB’s on? (I can’t make it out) my Td5’s articulated like that with them on - disconnecting them made an improvement.
  24. elbekko

    TD5 to V8

    Don't worry about it. As others have said, if it hasn't broken now, it probably won't. And don't let it overheat for too long.
  25. You've completely missed the point... That is a bog-standard Defender, and the wheel travel is about the same as the new one. Unless you're going to be doing serious competitions, a bog-standard Defender is all you will need. Same as @Tanuki, a bit of rock-crawl compromise for better road holding when doing 80kmh on gravel all day long for weeks would be a major safety improvement. I know that doesn't apply to your little island, but bigger markets have vast distances that people want to cover in comfort and safety.
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