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  2. I was told the fpr doesnt leak oil just fuel . Can you confirm it can leak oil and I'm guessing just remove and fit a new tin gasket ?
  3. Very kind 😊 Should be getting the overdrive, new gearbox, new steering box, and some soundproofing in in January .... once that’s done I’m hoping to put some proper miles on it 😀🤞
  4. Absolutely what it is all about, ...... it is the reward for the hard work, ... I for one wish I was there with as worthy a vehicle. Well done .
  5. Correct ralph, the engine has piston slap but seems to have good compression as I found out trying to turn it over by hand whilst adjusting tappers so all is well for now.
  6. I fitted one to an 85 Vogue but when it was installed the whole pulley system was not alinghned before I could start it oone of the valves dropped and I couldn't get the engine to turn a full rotation. I then stripped the engine back and rebuilt the top end and fitted new camb shaft etc. Was a fantastic engine and ran well until I broke the car up.
  7. I have not used them for ordering, but have used their site to get part numbers. https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=EN&PAGE= Here is the Italian page. https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=IT&PAGE= Peter
  8. It depends entirely what the engine/s was originally fitted to, which affects front cover, manifolds, sumps, pistons and camshafts. Heads are different too, along with emissions gear But basically, yes, the engines could be swapped, as all the above items could be swapped
  9. No the one I’ve got fitted is rubbish , can’t fit one of those as only glass I’ve got is on the doors and windscreen so was looking for one that I could fit to the back on the roof just above the rear door or a wing mounted one . I’ve found Nakatanenga do a wing mounted one it’s £70 but I’ve read good reports about them on another forum while I was searching.
  10. Your Dog clearly knows it is on a shoot , what a lovely collection of ancestral heritage , I've never had a 107 sw but would love to be a keeper of one . keep the travel updates coming , I for one love it , thanks cheers Steve b
  11. changing the FPR is easier than changing the starter or the clutch as a knock on effect of the FPR leaking, the oil from around the front cam plug is efficiently spread around the engine bay by the viscous fan, so i would change the front cover which is a push in job & then jetwash the engine bay with some degreaser
  12. Both are ancient now but SD1 had a lighter flywheel and likely different accessory drive etc. If the SD1 is an EFI then it'll have the EFi inlet manifold. SD1 exhaust manifolds are different. The oil pumps got bigger at some point but they're still not great compared to the later ones. Generally with a bit of faffing about you can bolt any Rover V8 in place of another. SD1 may well have a different cam for more power at higher revs with less low torque, depends what version the RR unit is as some were low compression or restricted. Here's some light reading for you:
  13. The best dab aerials I've retrofitted are the ones like the old mobile phone aerials, there is half stuck on the inside and half stuck on the outside of the glass with a short aerial sticking up. They usually need grounding by sticking a tab to the bodywork. I've never found the ones that just stick on the inside of the glass to be as good.
  14. The great thing about greasing your prop regularly is you can give it a good wiggle in all directions while you're under there - that amount of play/damage doesn't happen overnight.
  15. Gathering on the beach at the end of our drive.
  16. Western, thank you, much appreciated. I did think it odd that it would be incorrect.
  17. Local Series 1 group had a Christmas Dinner today - it’s held at Carnforth Train station, who maintain an historic platform and complete with period rooms and paraphernalia. They let us park on the platform, which is cool!, and today we had a steam train come through the station; which added to the atmosphere.
  18. Same as for rear drum braked vehicles, no shim under circlip as far as I can find in 300tdi workshop manual. & no end float measurement given.
  19. Thanks for the replies. Western, this the rear axle i'm looking at here and it has disc brakes. Do you know the end float for a disc rear axle?
  20. The shims set the shaft end float. On rear drum braked vehicles there is no shim on shaft just the circlip at outer end under the dust cap. On the front axle the shims set the end float for CV joint. End float on front between 0.127 to 0.254mm
  21. One brand I know of is oetiker clip. Most of these style clips need a special tool to fit them as you crush a tab to clamp it on hence why they are only really single use. The factory would use an electronic tool to apply the same force to tighten the clamp. Jubilee clips would work well as at least you know they are tight! Steve
  22. as far as i know , there suppossed to be shim's , i think it need's 0.1mm space between the flange and the circlip
  23. In an attempt to cure a rear end clunk i've noticed there aren't any spacers between the drive flange and circlip on my rear halfshafts despite there being a gap. (130 with Wolf axles) Is this correct?
  24. Are you running the standard metal fan and cowl ? A laser thermometer ~ £30 or so is a great addition to the tool box to check the actual temperature . A cheaper and simple alternative would be temperature stickers , some stuck in appropriate places in the 70c - 90c range will tell you exactly what temp. it's running at . A high gauge reading can be a bad earth of the dash panel , faulty voltage stabiliser (back of speedo) or faulty sender , everything being right it should read middle at normal temp. There are Sniff test kits to check for combustion gases in the coolant available to be sure of a leaking HG cheers Steve b
  25. Hi Steve, Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know what these clapms are called? I'm looking at getting some jubilee clips, as well. I just try where I can keep things original and OEM. Sean
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