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  2. Not a good seal as such, just a nice sliding fit. On closer inspection, I agree that it it a gouge. I have never seen that before myself, but yes, deburr it and run it as is.
  3. Done in six minutes or maybe you'd already figured it out 🤣. Can't confirm the torque but google confirms this, from the LandRover Workshop site - which I would trust. https://www.lrworkshop.com/torque-specifications-settings/land-rover-defender-1996 Edit: don't know why the page isn't being previewed in that link
  4. All done.. used hole saw through rubber then just had to “carefully “ hacksaw outer sleeve til I could break it free. No damage to rod so all good. just checking.. is 88nm sound correct for putting back on? Thanks again fellas.. another job out the way
  5. With a press you will need a something that is exactly the OD of the bush so that the outer sleeve is pushed out with the rest of the bush, as one piece. It is quite thin and even hard to see. I haven't access to a press so reverted to a common method to hacksaw from the middle, through the tube, then the rubber and finally the outer sleeve.
  6. Today
  7. I bonded 3mm marine grade alloy over mine. They didn’t have the corrosion, being a Birmabrite on a 109, but did have bolt holes and spare wheel well apertures to cover. I used PU adhesive (specifically Tiger Seal), which binds astonishingly strongly. That’d be more than strong enough, and will give a neat and smooth finish as long as you do the edges neatly. It’ll also keep any moisture out to prevent further corrosion between the layers. Just clean off the flaking paint and as much of the powder as possible first, and use a rust converter to kill the oxidisation before adding the layer, and apply plenty of thin beads of adhesive rather than a few thick ones as it doesn’t spread as easily under pressure as silicone sealants do.
  8. I have heard that frequently. The original black tank in my 95 Tdi RRC and the retro fit tank from 1990 Tdi Discovery that went into my 109 are both fine. I wonder if it was a widespread batch fault, or just a lot of owners not adding enough antifreeze in winter.
  9. A fag-packet calculation suggests 255/85s give an 8% gearing increase over 235/85s, close to my previously calculated 10% step from 7.50s to 9.00s, if I got those figures right. They’re a modest gearing increase that shouldn’t significantly adversely affect performance or fuel economy, and may improve them, while giving a considerable benefit to ground clearance and low pressure foot print on soft surfaces. My concern would be going too wide rather than tall - that increases rolling resistance and aquaplaning tendency.
  10. I’ never seen anyone else running 8.25 x 16 not even sure you can get them these days. On the farm we had a set of 5 XZL’s in this size. I really liked them. More narrow than a 255 but tall. Fitted my Series III lovely and I used them as a green laning tyre. We still have one that is practically unused. But 2 are very worn now and haven’t been able to source anymore.
  11. The liner in the last photo has certainly slipped. Given the reputation later engines have for slipped liners, I’d be looking at having all of them replaced with top hat liners, to head off future problems. If you can remove that slipped liner first, it’d give you an idea of whether the block is worth the cost of doing that. Hopefully, the rest of it is good to be reused with little more than new shells and seals. That tapper bore looks reparable. It can be over bored and sleeved, or tug welded and rebored. I’m not that familiar with V8s - is that bore for a hydraulic tapper, needing a good seal, or is it just for a n operating rod with no seal? If the latter, I’d just nib the bur and leave it- as it is a gouge, not a crack.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Despite what the seller might say, I personally would NEVER install an unknown (to me) Rover V8 nowadays without stripping it first. They are all getting on a bit now, and EVERY one I have ever had has one problem or another. In my experience you will always need a new camshaft and followers as a minimum. Liners do NOT have to drop to give problems. If you look at your photo, you will see a small black line on the outer edge of the liner at the 7 'o' clock position, inline with the head bolt hole. This is where the water will be coming up when the engine is at working temperature. The cleaning of the pistons biased toward that flaw, so IMO there is a problem. Liners that have moved do not necessarily give problems. Its the cracks behind them that is the problem. Only way to check for sure, is to pressure test it with the block hot. If it leaks, it is either scrap or have it top hatted. It will cure the problem permanently, its a well known and easy fix, but its whether you want to pay for it. However, I would be more concerned about the tappet bore. I am not sure if it can be sleeved. Its not worth buying another block or engine if you want a 4.6, which more like as not will have something wrong in the same way, you may as well fix what you have.
  14. Well done! At least you have eliminated that problem, Cheers Charlie
  15. Many thank for your reply, so the vents must be handed (?) whereas my '87 must have two the same. I'll have to do a part # search Your help is appreciated.
  16. How does that work? Is that black cap the pressure cap? I kept the series radiator with my TDI.
  17. The 255/85/16 is a very good tyre, as mentioned, especially if you run stock axles. If you are willing to upgrade, it is in my opinion 285/85/16 or 35*10.5*16 in old money. 9.00x16 is also good, but hard to get. It seems the larger diameters have very little choice in thread patterns unfortunately. Does anyone on here have experience with 8.25 x 16 tyres? How do they compare with 255/85/16? For wheels, it is very personal, but original land rover wheels do look right on a land rover in my opinion. Just get them banded to achieve the right offset and width.
  18. I would expect it to be cleaner if steam cleaned, to be honest - are you sure it is not just oil contamination or maybe a leaky injector? Top hat liners mean the gasket fire rings seal on the lipped section of the liner, so if anything did leak round, it won't get into the combustion chamber, and if it tried to go anywhere else well there is still gasket in the way.
  19. the black plastic tanks have been known to split along the seams, but the translucent tanks seem to be fine.
  20. blue arrow side goes in front of the diff housing, so the rod moves away then back in to avoid the diff.
  21. Had my X brake for over 10 years, never had a problem with the pads & never had to replace them, one of the best additions I've done to my 110. reckon the guy in that video has over adjusted it & the pads don't clear from the disc when handbrake is off.
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