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  2. Terryh

    Engine and gearbox fit into chassis

    The mounts for the gbx are handed so can't get them on wrong side, heights would all be wrong, thanks for the suggestion. I've had a good look back through photos of when I took it all to bits and reckon the engine mounts are too far forward. as Snagger says. Backed this up with a test fit of the bulkhead and the bell housing to gearbox flange was too far forward relative to the bulkhead. Going to re-drill the holes in the engine mount brackets as far back as I can allowing room to fit the nut underneath. I will still need to slot the transfer box mounts forward by 10mm but reckon it will all fit by then and whats 10mm in Land Rover tolerances.....
  3. Anderzander

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    <cough>
  4. 2a-Egg

    Downpipe studs

    Well that went wrong... New exhaust manifold it is haha. Ahwell I tried....
  5. BogMonster

    OT: Ifor tipper oil

    Google has failed to educate me, I need to top up (and probably change) the oil on my Ifor tipper as some of it has mysteriously disappeared. So far I see a suggestion that 10w40 engine oil is OK, and another that a 32 weight hydraulic oil is fine. I can't see anything that actually specifies what is in it from the factory. Anybody know? Ta
  6. garrycol

    Pulse Generator - LT95

    I need to get an electronic speed signal from a LT95 transfer case and was thinking of attaching a Pass-through Pulse Generator to the speedo cable - something like this https://www.kam.com.au/pass-through-pulse-generator.html Does anyone know of a similar product that will fit a LT95 speedo cable? Thanks Garry
  7. cackshifter

    Odd clutch moment

    If you have the 300tdi type clothes peg return spring, you might find one side has snapped. I have had 2 do this now, and it keeps working on one side but isn't as strong.
  8. With a RV8 that is on carbs but ignition is being provided EDIS 8/MegaJolt (so no dizzy) and I wanted to replace the carbs with the 14CUX (Hotwire) injection system from a 3.9 V8, where would I take the ignition signal off the EDIS 8/MegaJolt system for the Hotwire ECU to operate? In the original setup 3.9 dizzy and coil arrangement, the Hotwire ECU would have taken the 12v B+ signal from the low tension side of the coil. I am not sure what is the equivalent is with EDIS 8/Megajolt. Not sure if it is relevant or not, but I have built this tach module to run my dash tacho and it works fine - so maybe this signal can be used for the Hotwire injection system - would seem to be the equivalent of the 12v B+ on an old style dizzy and coil. Tach_adapter_sch Advice gladly received 😍 - oh yes as has been discussed previously, MS is the way to go but please can we just stay with MJ at the moment. There will be a time before not too long when the MS3X questions will start in earnest, so please bear with me. Thanks Garry
  9. monkie

    Bleedin' Brakes!

    Well go easy with the pressure if you have an old reservoir. Here's a picture of my massive crack
  10. cackshifter

    ERR7143 Crank shaft seal

    Or, you could not bother changing it. It doesn't do anything except keep dust out of the timing case. Or maybe keep timing case dust out of environment. Point is it doesn't hold any oil back. The one inside it under the timing sprocket is the one that does the work,that plus the O ring are a good idea to change.
  11. David Sparkes

    Where to find a 130 ambulance?

    I think there has been some confusion. Neither of the two links already posted were for any Yahoo Group. The 127 / 130 Ambulance group still exists, although I am not a member. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/127-130-ambulance-owners-enthusiasts/info That page gives more information, showing it has 162 members, and that there have been messages in most months, with 13 already in April. It has existed since 2003. Criteria shown is : For all owners and enthusiasts of the Marshall or Locomotors bodied Land Rover 127 / 130 ambulance. New members who fit the above description are always welcome. Membership is by application and new members are asked to submit a brief explanation of why they wish to join prior to approval. Good Luck 🙂
  12. reb78

    Bleedin' Brakes!

    15 psi is fine on that bleeder. It must just be weak plastic. I think i have used 25psi on mine when i just let a little air out if the front tyre and hooked it up to that! My brake fluid reservoir will be about the same age as yours Phil so maybe I will be more careful in future!
  13. Arjan

    Crank Pulley puller

    Air is the easiest way to get the bolt undone... Need to do that, again, later this week.... Bon Courage !
  14. Gazzar

    Starting turning on an old lathe

    I think the rewire, and new trip did the trick. It's running at full speed. 1130, if the motor plate isn't lying. I must buy a tacho gun. I think it's the first in rush that does it. If I run the machine in neutral first I should be fine. I'll think about the drum switch in a bit. I need to scribble some writing diagrams to get my head around it.
  15. monkie

    Bleedin' Brakes!

    I thought 15 psi seemed low - I suppose its all relative. That's exactly what I thought in terms of not having a brake problem whilst on the road. I think the blue box part is my only choice, you never know who has supplied the reservoir on the branded master cylinder kit - it may well be the same part. I'm thankfull that my wife wasn't in otherwise it would have sprayed brake fluid all over her car😬
  16. Mutley

    Bleedin' Brakes!

    I feel your pain monkie, another one of those "Simple easy 5mins. Job" that ends up being a total rebuild near as damn it!?! No idea on the pressure side, though i would have thought 15psi is fairly low!?! As for new reservoir being in a blue box, i personally wouldn't be worried as it's not a moving part!?! Regards age related failure, i would say so. Least it happened on the drive and not under foot out on the road!?! Andy
  17. Jocklandjohn

    Rear door hinge bolts, body side - quick query

    Update - hinges changed - bottom ones' nuts totally impossible to reach with the wing tank in place etc. So.....I removed the backdoor retaining arm (rear bottom left corner of door) and cut a small square of tub out to enable me to reach the back of the nuts with a spanner, then replaced and pop-riveted a cover plate back on with the retaining arm fastened to it - worth bearing this option in mind if any of you face a similar challenge!
  18. monkie

    Bleedin' Brakes!

    I spent the day yesterday changing all the fluids and filters on my 110. After the initial shock of finding metal flecks in the rear diff oil all went smoothly until I decided to change the brake fluid to finnish the 2 year service. I have always previously done it the old fashioned way using a helper to press the brake pedal while I open/close the bleed nipples on the brakes. I had no helper yesterday so I had got myself one of those one-man kits from Gunson which use the pressure from a spare tyre to pressurise the system with fresh fluid. The instructions said use between 20 and 10 psi. I used my electronic pressure guage to confirm I had let enough air out to get down to 15 psi. I thought half way was a good place to start with.... what could possibly go wrong? I filled the bottle in the kit with fresh brake fluid, hooked it up to the reservoir and the spare tyre then off I went to the rear brakes spanner in hand - all started well with the old fluid coming out. I then looked towards the front to see a mist of brake fluid spraying everywhere. When I got to the front I saw a huge crack had appeared in the plastic brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid being forced out of it. Any way the mess it made to one side, I've made more work for myself and the only reservoir I can find for a 110 of my vintage comes in a blue box (LR part number AEU1045). I have 3 questions: Was 15 psi in the spare tyre a silly place to start which was only going to end in failure? Is this just 30 year old plastic giving up the ghost and was going to fail any way at some point soon? The braking system is otherwise fine so I am only going to replace the reservoir - do the pins holding the reservoir to the master cylinder just push out?
  19. dantastic

    Where to find a 130 ambulance?

    Hmm, that yahoo group seems to be gone. None of the links to it work anymore.
  20. Mutley

    ERR7143 Crank shaft seal

    @Bowie69 i could live with that and more to the point the Boss might let me live long enough to fit it, or at least see the sun rise tomorrow!?!
  21. I’m thinking of retrofitting some genuine second hand electric windows and central locking to my 2004 110 van. I can find the individual looms, solenoids, winders etc for each door but is there another loom(s) that connect the two doors to the power supplies and console switches or do people tend to make their own? Looking for as much plug and play as I can using genuine parts if possible. Also, the door handle appears to be held to the door frame by two bolts inside the frame. These look pretty rusted up on mine so is there a trick to removing them without damaging the skin? Finally, what’s the fix for this cracking on the Puma door frames?
  22. Sabre

    Crank Pulley puller

    You will still need a sturdy pipe (about 1 meter long) to slide over the handle when you turn the bolt 90 degrees after the initial 80Nm. On the same subject, do you use a half-inch drive when tightening the final 90 degrees ?
  23. Cynic-al

    Starting turning on an old lathe

    To do things one at a time have you wired the motor direct for forwards without the switch to see if you can solve your problem of the house electrics tripping out? I could be completely misinterpreting what your saying with the switch so please check don't just go along with me but would this do it?
  24. Bowie69

    ERR7143 Crank shaft seal

    Given it is the outside seal, I would just put a corteco or bearmach branded on in, it is not the end of the world to change like a rear crank seal, for example.
  25. Cynic-al

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    My pickup is on a 25k service interval. Had it's first service recently and all they did was an engine oil change. Didn't even take a wheel off they rely on the computer to tell them when things need looking at. It's to make them cheaper on lease deals etc but I'm not at all impressed. That means it'll get to 50k with no-one looking at anything. I keep cars a long time so it'll be having an annual service at a propper garage rather than a dealer from now on. Every truck and trailer for the last couple of decades has run on air bags and the only problems I've ever encountered are valves leaking. A vosa fail but not journey stopping. Not that I have a fleet of hundreds of trucks mind 🤣. I can see why you wouldn't want it if your in the middle of nowhere hours from anyone with no phone signal but in the UK where your filmed and posted online as a yob if you drive on the grass verge I would quite like it. Partly as I've had 3 coil springs fail on my van in the last year, one sticking into the top of the tyre 😡 although I guess 200,000 miles isn't too bad. People want them to make an ultimate offroader, that's like homer Simpson's car, the cost whilst still maintaining all the regulations and get good mpg / low emissions would make it very expensive. If you look at the markets for offroaders, the jeep is king in America, the Toyota is king in Australia and everywhere else just makes any old stuff work. There's no market for it in the UK. Companies either buy cheap, so that's a pick up with an old fashioned chassis they can bolt stuff to, land rover are never going to make anything for £16k it's not worth the production line space, or they buy for a purpose ie unimog, iveco 4x4 truck, sprinter 4x4 or one of the raft of other things which are more practical than than a car sized 4x4 for a utility environment. There are lots of neat things they could do like easy to replace bumpers for when you clip them or even ones that come off for off-road and store on the roof. Or easy to remove rear seats leaving a flat easy clean load area but they won't. It'll be all about how many settings on the off-road dial and how well connected it is. It will be a freelander based on parts they already have and branded a defender for marketing. Let's face it though, if your hankering after land rover that you can tinker with on your drive and customise to your needs you've got 70 years of production to go at and for a lot less outlay than the new one will be.
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