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  2. Thanks for your reply and it has the original axle so 552818 it is.
  3. Wouldn't be hard to move the lever TBH. Much like Retroanaconda, I tend to use it as sixth gear, engage it as soon as I'm on the motorway and then use 5th/4th as required.
  4. Today
  5. Pops through next to the difflock leaver.
  6. Romahomepete

    RAL 5228

    Unless you are painting the whole vehicle when buying paint by ref no is OK you are better having an existing panel scanned and the paint matched to that as the paint will already have faded. Peter
  7. Where is the lever on them ? Not on the tunnel like a fairey ?
  8. I know I'm biased but the only brand new vehicle I would take around the world is a foers ibex f8. You can buy one factory built to any spec you want. If your cunning you pick a reconditioned engine, which means you can have a clockwork diesel be it Merc/200tdi or whatever else you fancy. You want 6x6 and a camper body no problem, personally I'd probably go somewhere around 130 wheel base because the body would only be a foot longer than a 110. Mike
  9. @LiamC Thanks that’s helpful info. I’m familiar with the 044, that’s a good idea thanks. Do you think you’ll ever work aircon back into your setup? How did you go with the engine mounts in the end? Did you avoid welding to the gal chassis? Great idea, the td5 hasn’t come out yet. I’ll use the tcase’s current location for the desired numbers. That’s a bit too obvious now that I think about it 😂
  10. Yesterday
  11. OP was asking about BRAND NEW vehicles As has been said, Australian interior would be more challenging. TBH I cant think of anything modern I would want to attempt it with, in a situation where there was little hope of rescue. I just dont trust the reliance on electronics
  12. Yes I agree about it being a stretch when reaching for the lever. I have made it even harder, as I have lifted my cubby in order to fit a heater in a box under it.
  13. What gearbox are using ? If its Auto I dont think it will go in easily using the series front with the transfer box in standard position, but if manual, you can shorten the engine/gearbox combo somewhat.
  14. A 300Tdi should have the earlier doughnut type ones - 552818. However worth checking your vehicle hasn’t had a later axle fitted. Later ones (Td5 ish onwards) have the inner bush cups spot welded to the axle. Earlier ones the cups/washers are separate parts.
  15. Mine is a bit noisy - sounds like an old Series box. But it’s still quieter with it engaged at 70 than the engine is without at 60. I don’t use it as a splitter gear as it generally seems to replicate the next gear up rather than act as a mid-point - e.g. third plus OD is more or less the same as fourth without. As such I just use it as a sixth, though if I do need to drop a gear on a motorway hill I drop the main box into fourth rather than disengage the OD as it’s much easier to do. This is the exact opposite of what is claimed in the sales blurb but it’s written by Canadians and for them the OD lever would indeed be closer. I only ever use it on the motorway and the closest one is 150 miles or so away so it doesn’t get a lot of use, but I engage it for a few miles on a faster bit of local road every now and then to keep things free. It works well and cruising at 70+ is fairly effortless which makes longer drives less tiring. Fuel economy suffers though.
  16. It's an old one but here's a datalog showing EGO correction in action cruising along the motorway: This is with a narrowband O2 sensor - the bottom trace shows O2 sensor voltage in green and EGO correction in red, you can see the red line "steps" up and down in response to the changes of O2 signal, constantly trimming the fuelling. This saves a surprising amount of fuel, I've had over 20mpg out of both my 4.6's on long motorway stints and neither of them is in a sensible vehicle.
  17. You'll need a high-pressure petrol pump, might be able to use a later tank. A 99 Disco 2 would have the 4.0 not the 3.9 wouldn't it? If so that's the one to have* as it's the cross-bolted block. Get the exhaust front half - downpipes, Y-piece, etc. too, and keep the PAS hose on the engine end. *= Assuming of course the Range Rover isn't also a P38 with a 4.0 or 4.6 in it?
  18. For once I agree with the heavyweight engineering - mog axles are a huge sprung weight and you're adding about 4-6" of leverage in the portal box offset (so like going up 8-12" diameter in the tyre) plus presumably you're not going to be running a set of 7.50's on them when it's done, so the huge extra weight plus huge extra leverage on the suspension links needs to be accounted for.
  19. Its always handy to have a spare engine ( or 7 ) for many reasons 😄 As has been said, Rover V8 is simple and relatively inexpensive provided you dont go silly with trying to get extra oomph
  20. I have one behind my 110 300TDi, fitted with the extended sump. Bought secondhand from a well respected member on here, it's been in use for about 18 months. I found that I easily ran out of revs with it selected and in 5th, on say a motorway incline. At slower speeds there were times when I would normally be in 4th but would need to drop a gear if I left the Roamerdrive engaged. It kind of defeated the object! However since my partial engine rebuild (new rings, cylinders honed and attention to all boost related pipes), there has been an improvement. I've only done a little more than 1,000 miles since then due to Covid but now I can stay in 5th + OD for extended miles on the motorway and easily sit at 70 mph. At lower speeds I have flexibility of power and can 'pull" without necessarily dropping a gear. Pulling away from standstill is much nicer as I don't need that early change from 1st to 2nd when only halfway across the traffic lights. There are no problems except that the linkage kept vibrating loose at one end and this lengthened the rod and prevented full engagement. That was cured with thread-lock. However, I am noticing a noise with the Roamerdrive engaged, like I can hear the gears. It's certainly possible to tell whether it's in or out just by listening. So I would be interested of others' experiences before and after re-builds. All in all though, it now seems to be a good addition and it is the better engine performance that has sorted that.
  21. Yup. Fitted the fronts first, depending on your leg to body ratio you can get away without cutting the seatbox (just relocating mounting tabs). The rears are technically wider than the inside of the vehicle but slamming the doors does work . The seats collapse unless they have something to hold them upright because they normally latch into the wheel arches. I changed out my leaky, rattly windows for 88" sides and bent a bracket and welded on a stub to hold the seat up. It's stronger than what is normally present on a CSW for holding the seat belt and is bolted to the roof and tub (rather than just what passes for a C pillar). They are damn comfy, just got out of an 8h non stop journey to Scotland. Can get some pictures of the brackets and setup if people want.
  22. Good news! Connected up at the dash end and working with no issues
  23. I know i'm digging up an old thread here, but do you have front pictures of the enlarged "oval" hole you made on the bulkhead ? As on the pre 2002 bulkheads the factory "round" holes sit very close to the edge of the bulkhead vents, did you start to drill the hole off centered so it sits higher ?
  24. From a '72 parts listing showing diameters and part numbers. Regards
  25. been a long time, A small amount has happened since: I can start with fuel pipes. I had noticed, shortly after tightening the unions at the injectors, a drip, drip,drip that progressed to quite a bit more than that. I overtightened them (a costly lesson learned) -All four pipes were replaced and seated nicely with no leaks. I have bought a timing tool kit but haven't the balls to crack that open yet. I will get there as I think the timing is out. Second, is the oil leaks. -The sump seal is still my main culprit for leaks but has now just got to the point where I have to add small amounts of oil to keep it topped up to N on the dip. I have a new gasket for that and will change that out when I switch to a lower viscous oil for winter. -The leak at the gearbox/transfer box area is still a concern. I think it may be the o ring in between the two, and that is something I have no idea where to start. so I keep atf with me but really don't need to fill quite that often. Checked often though. And the gear box oil seems to stay at its proper level. Third issue: Thermostat? -The truck coolant level temperature always stays around mid point. But the oil temp gauge is always on the 3/4 range or higher (at highway speeds) when the engine is "warmed up." Writing this out, is making me rethink everything entirely. If the water temp is spot on at 1/2 or 50%, what is causing the oil temp to be so high? Not the coolant system, unless the sender unit is out of whack or the coolant temp gauge is whacked. I have an oil cooler in front of the radiator and the hoses have small leaks around the clips, but maybe I will have to dig deeper. Lastly is the rear axle (in general) It is pretty clunky, with plenty of backlash. when rotating the tires, I noticed a bit of play on the flange and splines of the rear shafts. I couldn't tell if it was spline wear or flange but wanted to get an opinion on whether new shafts would be a good go. and Ive looked into the terrafirma HD flanges etc. As well as, maybe, new diff setup. When I changed the diff oils there were no shards of metal, very small shavings and bits but no chunks or teeth. -P.S. When warmed up the engine has a bit of blow by, which I am guessing a head gasket is the culprit there. The breather return and intake were not too, too oiled up but a small bit of residue, which I have since cleaned out and am monitoring, was present. I am waiting on a genuine head gasket kit but it has been months and months (covid and all). So who knows with that one. I would like to be able to do that myself. -Grover
  26. Not really correct, the Puma type comes in 36 and 48 spline depending on what year it was fitted to a CSW or not. I have the later central pad type wheel in 48 spline off previous 2011 CSW, and later on the 48 spline central pad wheel became standard fitment across the range, my basic poverty spec 2015 hardtop came brand new with a central pad type wheel PS the later type Central pad wheel is much nicer to use than the TDi type
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