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  1. Today
  2. 1988 12j 90, starter not spinning.

    My MG starter sometimes needs a knock from a BFH when I take it out for a first run in the spring.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Flat power tool batteries - what to do ?

    I have zapped nicad with no explosion, didn't fix it though....
  5. Guys, This is another query in direct relation to my other posting. just spent the last hour on the phone to a few R/Rover wreckers and parts people, who are now telling me that the engine (and vehicle) were full imports into Australia (1993 RR station wagon). If so, and no reason to doubt it, what I really need is someone who can tell me what is really a pretty simple answer. They say if you need to know something, go to the experts, so here goes. Going by Miketomcats posted photos, he shows the actual front engine mount (identical to mine) being in a vertical position, i.e the base of the mount being paralell with the horizontal face of the chassis rail, in other words the centreline of the bolt being at right angles to the said chassis rails. You blokes would have pulled these things apart and reinstalled engines many times, no doubt. Can anyone say with any certainty, that the actual front engine mount, HAS to be set this way? I'm inclined to agree with Mike at this stage, but what is confusing me is that disregarding the actual bracket and the chassis rail for a minute, if you have the mount in your hand, there is a definite offset in the angle of the large mounting bolt (where it goes through the crossmember, approx 35 degrees), plus the fact that the guy who gave me the engine swears black and blue that that is the way it came out of the original vehicle, (inclined at the said 35 degrees). Like I posted before, don't have access to ANY original vehicle where I could possibly put an angle meter on to check. So, hoping some of you blokes can set me straight, like I said, I'm inclined to go along with Miketomcat, but have already built a template for future crossmember fabrication, with this 35 degree angle in it. Before getting the full crossmember fabricated, have to ensure that the angle(s) are correct. Just like to add that the project vehicle has a rear engine/transmission mount sitting on a crossmember at the tailhouse extension of the transmission, AS WELL as a side mounted bellhousing to chassis rail EITHER side, (original mounting points, on neoprene "donut" type pads with 3/4" bolts holding them in position). Be really appreciated if some of you blokes would give me your opinions on this. Thanks, Dave64
  6. Flat power tool batteries - what to do ?

    g) Solder leads to the terminals with alligator clips and run from the nearest spare car battery kicking round the workshop - will run forever!
  7. Mike, Those last two photos show the bolt coming out of the actual mount, (NOT the mount to bracket horizontal bolt) to be vertical and parallel to the face of the rectangular chassis. Unless you have a different mount than what I have, my mount has an offset built into the casting (approx 35 degrees) and again going only by the bloke who had the engine in the vehicle originally, swears that the brackets in the actual vehicle (1993 RR station wagon) are set at the same angle. To me, that makes sense in what he says, the weight (of the engine) is distributed downwards as well as spread out slightly sideways. I don't know enough about them to bet the farm on it, and didn't have the donor vehicle or even get a good look at it, before it was crushed, but that is the reason I originally asked if anyone had photos or tech drawings of the mounting positions.. I'm no engineer by any means, have seen the way you have set yours up many times, in fact rebuilt a couple of old Jeeps where I used those vertical mount adapters with "donut" type cushions, worked quite well. In fact, the project I'm rebuilding at the moment, has very similar type of original mounts midway down the chassis, angled downwards at the same 3 degrees of engine instillation, at the bellhousing. As I'm just about to go ahead and have the front crossmember/engine mounting fabricated, last thing I want is to find out later that I have set the actual mounts at the wrong angle! Thanks, Dave64
  8. Been trying to resolve this problem for a few days now but getting bogged down largely I think because I lack understanding of how the system is supposed to work, so time for some additional input I think before I drive myself deeper into a bottomless can of worms (and desparations!). I've posted here because similar systems are in both D1 and RRC. Background: D1 300tdi 1996 auto - new to me, abs dash bulb had been removed (nice) and initial error code shown was 2-6. Easy I thought so changed brake light switch, clearing the error, and promptly got the new code 2-2. According to the RSW solutions site this code means “1. Pump relay doesn't switch off or 2.Wiring Connection 'Pump Monitor' to ECU” I've gone through a number of checks on the power supplies, relay operations, ecu connections and continuities, and everything seems to check out apart from what follows. 1. The pump relay – does not run the pump when ignition is on brake pedal is depressed (**check my understanding here – should ignition on and brake pedal pressed be enough to run the pump??**). But if relay terminals 85 and 86 are bridged the pump runs. Power supply on NO to the relay is ok at 12v. Relay when tested out of circuit latches ok on a 12v supply. When the relay is removed from circuit and put back it still doesn't operate - the problem seems to be that WO from ecu terminal 11 has only 0.1v – not nearly enough to trigger the relay. Presumably on receipt of 12v from the brake light switch terminal 11 should have a bigger output voltage? So does this mean the ecu is faulted or is there another condition that isnt being met? I've done similar checks for the Load relay – supply on OK is good, but the BG output from terminal 8 of ecu is 0volts, so again this relay is not operating in circuit. 2. Pump monitor to ecu. This is terminal 30 on the ecu. I presume terminal 30 is waiting for 12v from NR on the pump relay. It doesn't receive 12v because the relay doesn't operate. This all seems pretty much self defeating unless I'm missing something blindingly obvious. An thoughts/inputs welcome. I've extracted some wiring schemes attached for the relevant bits mentioned above. Cheers.
  9. The front end came a little closer to completion today, going to be a really short nose as I'm using a Series bonnet, going to be hard to have that radiator there, but its going to happen I'm sure!
  10. Webasto fuel pick up advice

    The filler neck is the prefered option , supported by the factory for both Eberspacher and Webasto installs. if you have access the top of the tank a standpipe is also an option. Whichever route you take , ensure the pickup has the correct ID as incorrect fueling causes issues with the FOH.
  11. Range rover classic differentials

    I have a RRC front axle with a diff from Nige that has zero play at all, yet the drive members have about 45 deg of play combined!!
  12. Webasto fuel pick up advice

    If it is a TD5 there is a blanked connection on top of the fuel pump for this. cut the top off and shove your fuel line into the tank.
  13. 200tdi rear lights fault

    Earth points and bullet connectors...Land Rovers finest engineering lol
  14. 80" Range Rover on portals.

    D2 axles willbe fitted. Dont know if possible regarding prop length/angle and chassis to tyre clearance, but modified shacke points at chassis and rear leafs to front and vice versa will transform an 88" into 76". Too short? Suzuki/Daihatsu/Bedford/PIAGGIO mini vans are a tad over 72", and aparently, even with ligth tail and forward control, dont flip forward.
  15. 200tdi rear lights fault

    Ok the problem was the rear earths that screw dawn to the rear tub . To be honest I never thought of these as being important as they earth to the alloy tub and I never thought alloy made a very good earth . Obviously that's me being an idiot because if they weren't important they wouldn't be there
  16. Flat power tool batteries - what to do ?

    I have a couple of power tools with dead NiMH batteries. I intend to rebuild the battery cases with 18650 Li-ion cells to equivalent voltages, and battery protection circuits. The latter prevent excess discharge, which is one thing that Li-ion doesn't like. There's a chap on YouTube who is successfully welding battery tabs with little more than a small car battery. https://youtu.be/tlm-C_fiGS8 I have a suitable charger from my father's collection of RC equipment. Another solution involves a bit of 3D printing, and creating an interface to adapt your existing tool to take a popular modern power pack from the likes of Makita or Bosch. Woodworking genius Matthias Wandel has a video on doing such things with Ryobi batteries https://youtu.be/NJx0dqtDNfE
  17. Radio problems

    Excellent. You now just need the Defender speaker boost pack to hear the radio when on the motorway!
  18. Any one coming or going to USA

    Thanks for the offer =jon= i will keep that in mind...... if things dont work out with me and Monkie i will get in touch..... That sounds Sooooo wrong!?!
  19. Flat power tool batteries - what to do ?

    Sorry should have said this is nicd. Zapping seems dangerous and I understand lithium batteries may / will explode if zapped. The videos only do it with nicds.
  20. 80" Range Rover on portals.

    The car was ok to drive. I would say that it was the same as a lifted 90 with simex on with one exception - the steering link design was a compromise that resulted in the drag link slightly rotating the track rod up or down (depending on which way you steered). This caused a slack spot in the steering and an element of vagueness to the direction! I believe the steering design was driven by Andy's desire for the axles to be capable of bolting into any land rover. It made handling at speed interesting. However I did overtake cars in the M6 in it after a while. This means that either I'm mad (I learnt to drive on a fordson tractor with about a 1/3 of a turn of slackness in the steering - you guided it), or it was comparable to driving my lifted 90 on simex. The high cog you are worried about will not show on the road - it will be far more of an issue off road at any kind of angle. Adrian
  21. 1988 12j 90, starter not spinning.

    is the white/red trace wire connected to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid. ?
  22. My 24 year old 200tdi rebuild

    Engine has completed 276 miles & 12.3 hours since first start after rebuild, dropped the oil filter & running in oil this evening, it now has a new filter & nice fresh 15W/40 multigrade, going to run this for the next 1000 miles then change to a semi synthetic oil with a new filter. a photo of the magnetic sump plug before it was wiped clean, no nasties on it
  23. 80" Range Rover on portals.

    Well yes of course, point is though, drivetrain is way heavier than bodywork, even with it raised a few inches, you are not going to suddenly take a forward roll.
  24. 80" Range Rover on portals.

    The heavy drive train will be raised equal to the body . With SOA (springs over axles) the only weight down low is in the axles. Everything else will be raised. I suppose this will be for an all out off road vehicle ? At least consider fitting Defender axles. The wider track will counteract the higher center of gravity and possibly give a tighter turning radius.
  25. Subscribing to this as I have a 24v Sealey impact driver that has a dead NiCd pack. I've read about zapping them with extra voltage, not tried it (or heard of anyone who has!) though. Possibly it was only for NiCd not other chemistries though....
  26. Radio problems

    This is fixed! I texted the LR garage who fiexed the dashboard a few weeks ago and first thing in the morning they sent me the code. The radio is not the orignal one but it is a LR standard one as the first one was faulty. It was replaced after a few weeks or months. I'm glad it is over, it was rather inconvenient. Thanks to all of you for tips!
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