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  2. Sound clip in post one. I'm working up the options. If I find something obvious that's wrong, and not too deep, I'll fix it and do it back up. If it's deeper (bearings), then I've the debate of recon Turner short block, or some degree of DIY full or part rebuild. There isn't much in the cost between Turner and DIY, if the crank, cam and bores are bad, it's cheaper to outsource to Turners. I'll aim to get to it in a week's time.
  3. Thanks for all the advice so far, still ploughing through my options (Good deal on fork may buy @ £50 from Britannica)
  4. I couldn't say, I haven't driven a Range Rover I'm afraid, it's rather like comparing apples and pears. I do have an 18 plate Seat to compare to and I'll take the 90's comfort over that any day. But it's subjective ... 😆😉
  5. Today
  6. Check the pivot too. Quite often they wear through the arm as the wear on the pivot has made a sharp lip around the edge.
  7. Brittanica Restorations in Ontario (he’s actually a Yorkshireman expat) does a very good fork mod using a nylon bearing, much like the everlasting Series III forks, Mail order. I don’t know how costly or quickly he could get one to you, but it’s a better mod than the usual flat bar or washer welded behind the pivot point.
  8. This bearing is practically against a face meaning the puller I have presses on the bearing cage, it can't get far enough in because the gap isn't big enough.
  9. 5k is a PFO quote - he doesn’t want the job, so wouldn’t do a good job even if you madly went for it. 3500 is steep, but should result in an immaculate job with thorough prep and a lot of trim removed for proper cover behind. Ask what they would be doing in terms of prep and coverage for the price.
  10. Yes, they are removable, and no damage should occur if you use the proper bearing removal tools and a puller. Even Halfords sell them.
  11. The only thing I find uncomfortable is the noise level in my 109. I used ‘90s era Defender seats, and while they could do with a bit more thigh support, they’re the most comfortable seats I have had in any car, including my 2009 90, RRC, friends’ RRS, D4, Volvo XC 90, BMW 5 Series, various Fords, Dodges, Hyundai’s and Kia’s. And moving the seats inboard 1.5-2” to the inboard bolt hole pattern of the Series seat base sorted the elbow issue, too. They can be comfortable with a little adjustment.
  12. Can anyone recommend a garage/specialist in the North East of England who can do a TD5 2002 Defender re-spray (interior & exterior)? So far been quoted £3500 and £5000 from two places.
  13. And don't just fit a new clutch fork or the same thing will happen again. Weld a reinforcement to the place where the pushrod wears out the fork. Then it will last for ever.
  14. Pull the other one - you can make Defenders a lot better than standard (and god knows enough people spend enough time & money trying) but even the best Defender out there is miles behind modern stuff in so many ways that are very hard to do anything about without a major re-engineering.
  15. Can the pressed on bearing on a differential be removed without sustaining damage? My reason for asking is I have an air-locker not working properly and the supplier is asking for the bearing removal and an accurate height measurement taken, any pressed on bearings I've removed and seen removed involved damaging the bearing.
  16. Paddock spares sell Britpart carp. Steer well clear of that brand. Even if you order genuine, they’ll often send you Britpart. Same with Craddock. I strongly recommend Dunsfold Land Rover.
  17. I think it won't be a bad idea to just replace the bushes. I've read good and bad stories about polybushes and most people tend to stay with OEM. This kit should do I guess? -> https://www.paddockspares.com/defsusrroe-rear-oe-bush-kit.html Can you replace these bushes with a hammer or do you need special tools like a press? I will replace the A frame ball joint as well. To make it an easier job, I'm leaning towards a full kit instead of only the joint. Britpart -> https://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html or Terrafirma -> http://www.terrafirma4x4store.co.uk/TF1129_A_FRAME_BALL_JOINT ?
  18. I’d also check the lengths of the radius and trailing arms - it’s quite possible one or more have been replaced with an incorrect spec or badly made aftermarket item of the wrong length.
  19. Yep, that suspension bush is loose. It doesn’t look distorted, so is probably just in need of tightening rather than replacing. The wheel rotation play doesn’t look bad, but it it is more than I’d expect. Rotate the wheel back and forth and look for play between the shaft protruding from the circlip and the star shaped flange behind the circlip - if there is any slack there, then the flanges are worn (the shafts are harder, so their splines maybe ok, but you won’t know until the flanges are separated from the shafts).
  20. Few US designers ever had that will...
  21. The spring I removed has a free length of 47.5mm. The official LR manual says it should be 68mm. This can't be right. Is the one at 47.5 length OK?
  22. I guess this could be a known issue... As you can buy genuine LR spacers... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Land-Rover-Defender-110-130-Rear-Radius-Arm-Spacer-KVX000010/253525136822?hash=item3b074695b6:g:PxoAAOSw3Mpau3IE
  23. I agree it’s subjective but I bet there aren’t any motoring reviews that give the Defender (including the £150,000 works v8 ) full marks for comfort and having to put other car seats in and change the drive train suggests perhaps it should come with Range Rover seats and that drive train from the factory. Not entirely a dealership conversation you want to be having. I don’t like the seats. Not to worry sir here is a spanner and directions to the local breakers yard ...... I have to drive 600 mile in either in a top end Range Rover or a Defender and we are really saying that’s a like for like driver comfort experience ? I like the Defender but I don’t think to do it better is some of the areas is really a big ask but that too is subjective and only my view.
  24. Thanks for your thoughts. Either way, i'm highly unlikely to be able to correct a chassis discrepancy so i've bought a set of the heavy steering pull bushes from Superpro. For £35 its worth a go.
  25. That was going to be the next thing to look at,measuring the hard points. From what I understand, some 130s/127s were built by third parties, so you never know just how good their chassis jigs were.... Mind you , I have no idea what LRs own jigs were like either!
  26. It looks like Superpro do a kit that might help my problem. SPF2717K for a light pull SPF2718K for a strong pull
  27. The wheels were straight as confirmed with a washing line prop on the inner rim edge. Its about 6mm higher on the drivers side (flat floor to front chassis dumb iron). All the bushes really are perfect. The axles are Wolf and seem to be built pretty tough so i'm finding it hard to believe they'd be bent. Maybe i'll try and take some more measurements on the chassis when my tame helper (wife) returns later!
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