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I think I replaced mine with 8mm countersunk Allen screws, the hex is much more reliable than a Phillips or pozi head.

The 300tdi disco had a transducer which has a much smaller square drive than the speedo cable, the gear has to be changed to fit a cable.

I have a 2005 TD4 Freelander and need to remove one of the injectors which is well and truly stuck in the engine. Does anyone have a recommendation for the best tool kit to purchase for this task? It wont get much use, but I dont want to damage anything in the process. Appreciate the help Thanks

Or, more accurately, how many square metres of body do I need to cover on a soft-top 110? Yep, I'm planning ahead and thinking about paint. It may be wildly optimistic but that's me...

Anything that's adding extra complication, even if it's made from quality parts, will still add to the risk of things going wrong. Just by the nature of there being extra components.

It is a good trailer I even barbequed a P38 on mine and it is still going strong.

I think it was a CT177 I hired to fetch my tractor … good trailer .. but I wouldn’t want a shipping container on it 🤣

Have carried some very odd loads on my CT177 which led me to want the flat bed too. The only thing I have damaged so far are the stupid foldable lights which I have now given up on.

Thanks Muddy , noted to favourites ....just in case Steve

Ed's mate CLH offer a 20x8 with twist locks that would be a good multipurpose or there are more skelly style older ones coming up on marketplace readily away. IMHO the CT177 is not strong enough without adequate bearers to spread the weight, the side rails and punched floor can be easily bent with machinery/industrial loads. The same can be said for the TB range, if you put something like a roller or tractor implement on you start bending the floor/sides up when strapping down if your not careful. I'm sure I have put this on before but a long time ago I moved a railway carriage body that had been used as a stable for ~50 years. We cut 6x6" posts to the right size to jam into the inside and strapped it all together with ratchet straps before using hi-lifts to rear one end up and winch it onto telegraph poles on the trailer with block and tackle shackled to the rear crossmember. This was all in a small croft in Redmire so access was limited to say to least, we had to have it higher on the trailer using the hil-lifts inside on the afore mentioned 6x6 beams this time to pass over a wall on the way out before lowering it back down.. It was a steady 20 mile journey back through mainly single track roads in low box. Anything can be done with enough care and thought but sometimes often you have to weigh up whether it is really worth it.

You are absolutely right ... but now I can't sleep anymore. I always think about all the parts in the truck😱 Good made parts don't increase risk. Cheap plastic scrap does.

Speedy cables and other similar recalibration companies do small gear boxes to plug into the drive cable as an alternative to recalibration of the speedo itself.

Similar to Elon Musk’s comment regarding Starship: “The best part is no part.”

It's not about errors - more plumbing means more things to get damaged, more parts means more parts that can fail, more weight means more stress on the vehicle, etc... the most reliable part is the one that's not fitted.

If I remember correctly, when you go to larger tyres than the standard 32", you move off the end of the range of available gears. So of the available gears, Blue is the nearest to correct. Of course, if all else fails, you can just fit whatever gear comes to hand, and reprogram the speedo to read correctly. Any chance a bit of the old speedo cable is stuck in the drive gear? I can't think why else it wouldn't fit, though I have found it a bit fiddly occasionally. As far as I've seen the speedo drive gears all have the same centre square.

That's all true, of course, but if one can only build something like this with additional sources of error, one should leave it alone. Did I already say that tinkering is fun? Your pic looks exactly like that 😉 I like to measure temps with IR Thermometer. Maybe thats why I didn´t build it yet

It does add cost, complexity, points of failure, and weight though... I just stick temperature telltale indicator labels around my vehicles and if anything ever shows it's got too hot I'll consider adding cooling - so far nothing ever has.

I hope your currently in the process of starting a revival thread on the above.... regards Stephen

I remember helping my dad change the brushes on many of the dynamos on his old, junk cars. When I started my apprenticeship in the late '70's, they were, more or less, a thing of the past. My first 2A had a dynamo, but I converted to alternator as I fitted an electric winch to it. Currently in the process of reviving a '67 2A, which also has a dynamo, which has had a 'refresh'. It remains to be seen whether the regulator is operational, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I just mentioned what he wrote. The LT77 is not stronger for sure, but depending on the tires or on the ground it can be much better as we believe, which he confirmed The tyres ultimately determine the transmission load. If you drive carriage wheels, every gearbox has an easy life. It's different with wide tyres, which never spin. Only then does the entire torque of the engine have to be transmitted. I believe the LT77 is a good and proofen concept. It was constructed in the 30s of last century, when tyres was a lot smaller. Cooling it with my idea is not a really necessary improvement, but a nice project for hot areas, that can´t harm.

If you need the speedo surround I've got one in good condition. Brought for exactly the same situation, but the original came out nicely. Also have a black speedo gear (again in good condition) if this is any use

Interesting when you consider the r380 is supposed to be stronger... I suppose maybe rallying is a very unique situation that most boxes don't see so another area becomes the week point in the modified box?

That sounds good enough to me 😁 Thanks for offering your experience!

The speedo drives come out if you can twist it round with a gentle hammer and small chisel/old screwdriver then careful prying on both sides at once then a bit more chiseling and a bit more prying after a good spray of plusgas. If you just pry it tends to fracture the rim.

In a German LR forum a rallye driver said, he killed several R380 but never a LT77. No idea why, but even though the R380 is improved, the LT77 seems not bad. The only idea I had is to build additional cooling and filtering via an el. pump sucking from the drain plug, pressing through a oilfilter and back in the filler, controlled by an el. thermal switch. Result is more and cleaner oil, without changing anything in the box.