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  2. Itโ€™s what I did with my 109 before I fit the 110 axles and alloys. Iโ€™d just spray a little paint into the plastic lid and use a modelling paintbrush to touch things up. Kept it smart and tidy.
  3. The 12v and 0v for the gauges come from the loom on pin 1 and 2 not the speedo. My point was the drive signal for these comes from the td5 speedo as a pwm signal. See http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/gauges_diagram.pdf The fuel and temp sender inputs go straight into the speedo. If you want to keep your resistance 300tdi water temp gauge you'd need to break the red sender wire into plug B pin 5 and coming out of plug B pin 9 as pwm shown and use the dotted red wire. Fuel sender goes into speedo plug B pin 3 and comes out as pwm onPlug B pin 7 to use the Td5 PWM gauge. There is also an output on plug B pin 1 to wire into the low fuel light. neither of the gauge drive circuits worked on mine but the speedo did.....
  4. Gentlemen - thank you for the benefit of your thoughts, it's much appreciated!
  5. The price of older disco's seems to be creeping up, that is the first 200tdi first series. When I bought my Romulus facelift 300tdi finding one with a decent MOT and on the road wasn't so easy, there seems to be few on the road these days, most 300tdi's I could fine where modified in some way or another with prices from 1500 - 3000+ dependent on the kit they had on. I finally found a GS (basic) spec unmolested for 2k, with a dubious 11 months MOT. Off the road trucks seem to bottom out at 500 which equated to getting an engine and gearbox, but I only got that price from asking about and visiting a few garages with old trucks sat outside them. so "in my opinion" any truck with an MOT its going to be 1000+ dependent on how rough it is. MOT less... down to 500 dependant on what needs done to get it back on the road, if it needs a stack of welding then its as good as the engine and gearbox, but if it doesn't need welded then that makes it more valuable as its much easier to get it back on the road.
  6. I have never worked with this topic, but as an electronics engineer I would attach importance to a stabilised voltage. Isn't there a stabiliser in the dashboard? Is it connected to this circuit? I would first feed a defined current into the display to check the gauge and then check the stabiliser if one is involved.
  7. I think all the Discoveries got the same harness with plugs connected to stuff as per the specification of the vehicle, so finding unused connectors is not unusual, however confusing it may be.
  8. So, before I go off half coked and start yelling at the guy who rebuilt my gearbox, can anyone help me diagnose what may be wrong with it... Since a full bearings and seals rebuild, it has been stiff going 1st-2nd and 3rd to 2nd and I put it down to settling in post rebuild. I'm not sure of the mileage since rebuild because I didn't record it on the invoice, I only wrote it on the flywheel when I did the clutch at the same time, so I'm going to have to pull the box to get that info. Anyhoo, I pull into the parking lot of a local business and shift from 3rd to 2nd and there is a loud bang and the disco does a "jerk" like something went through the teeth of a gear and the it is "normal" again. I park and do my business and go home, about 4.5km. Next morning, I'm back to the shop and this is when things start to get strange...I'm struggling to find gears and some of the shifts are almost like a crash box with bad double de-clutching and others are silky smooth. By the time I'm back at the shop, I'm down to 1st 2nd and 5th gears. I park the Disco and switch off and the box shifts into some gears with the engine off. I do my shopping, go out to park at the loading dock and as I'm reversing the box feels like it's "tightening up" as the car won't coast in reverse, it needs to be under power to move. Fortunately, it's only about 20 meters of reversing, but then as I leave, it feels the same going forward, but only for a few seconds while still in the yard, and returns to smooth coasting after that. The drive home has15 traffic lights/stop street/roundabouts to exercise my shifting skills and I work out that I can get 1st/2nd OK, but 2nd-3rd is a lottery of maybe maybe not and 3rd to 2nd is grinding until I match the revs nicely. As it's flat roads, I elect to take off in 2nd and some 2-3 shifts remain poor and I once made it to 5th, but getting back into 2nd at the lights was a challenge involving slipping the clutch to get the gears turning and then it shifts into gear. BTW, selecting Reverse is also a slip the clutch and grind it in affair. So, now I'm debating yanking the box out today or tomorrow while I wait for the old bloke to contact me. He's dyslexic so communications is always a problem with him, but as per human nature, "now he's avoiding me"....๐Ÿ™„ Ideas, please???
  9. You can be justifiably proud of that result!
  10. I had a failed hazard switch. Ordered a replacement and it came in a blue box ๐Ÿ˜Ÿ. This was also faulty. No output to the left indicator when in normal mode, ie hazard switch not on. Instead of trying again, and possibly again, and again, I sorted it by altering the wiring and including a diode. The system now works my way, but produces the correct results. I can supply a wiring diagram if anybody needs one. Mike
  11. Yesterday
  12. With the extras I would go with ยฃ1250 and drop closer to ยฃ1000 if you have to get rid of, most people will kick off haggling a couple of hundred light Regards Stephen
  13. Anyone? When I last looked - albeit a few years ago now, Disco 1s with no MOT could easily be picked up for ยฃ500. But they just don't seem to be about any more, so I have no idea as to what to ask for mine. Would ยฃ1,000 for a complete vehicle plus quite a bit of another be about right?
  14. Pilfered from an app note by LittelFuse but shows some of the stuff the electronics is meant to survive. It's actually pretty simple these days to design electronics to handle automotive stuff and reverse polarity etc., there's quite a few chips these days that do it all in one.
  15. With my ghetto plating method, you could just dip the machined surface into the solution. So only the very end of the stud is subject to any witchcraft. Probably...๐Ÿ˜ Cheers Dave
  16. I bought these yrs ago, really handy for awkward stuff and you can inch a bend along with them https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html Oh and I found them on Aliexpress for less than half what I paid lol
  17. I changed the complete set to TD5 ones, speedo is correct and the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate so I haven't needed to modify that. You may have just pointed out my problem then - I didn't realise the temp gauge went through the speedo, I thought it was a straight positive feed. So in short, I need to put in a new 12v feed from the fuse box and see if that solves it. Fridge, hold off on the resistors...
  18. Put it on the back burner for now I have a short front shaft I can turn down and try cutting splines in, if it works I will take yours in exchange Will keep you posted Regards Stephen
  19. I did the td5 dash speedo conversion a while back, the temp and fuel gauge didn't work correctly and sat at half way as someone mentioned above. I concluded the drive from the speedo head despite being wired up for ROW spec was duff. The speedo works fine however. I believe the td5 gauges work on PWM drive as I couldn't get much movement by shorting to + or -. I got a vdo vision temp gauge and sender which is nicely accurate in degrees c. The fuel gauge is taken care of with the td5 gauge and a gauge wizard from Spyda. This can be calibrated for fuel gauges/senders and other senders/gauges. A bonus was the output for the fuel low light which you can calibrate to flash at an even lower level to warn you of an impending walk.
  20. Oh my! this mean I donโ€™t have to carry on with my manual shaper conversion?๐Ÿ˜‚
  21. @dangerous doug I may or may not have bought one of these....... Regards Stephen
  22. Dredging an old thread back up as I'm trying to find some background on underdrive versions. Just stumbled across an older used underdrive to possibly buy. From pictures the attachment of the inner shaft to the planetary gear is different than other versions I have seen. The inner shaft is welded to the gear rather than a splined interface (attahced pic of example of unit like this disassembled on bench). I emailed Ashcroft and Dave wasn't sure this was a solution they had used or if it had been modified after sale at some point. Anyone seen something similar?
  23. Standard values close to that are 39 and 200, I'll see what I've got and pop a selection in the post.
  24. As I'm out of touch with current prices, I'm looking for value guidance... I took my D1 off the road when a mate asked me to babysit his D2 while he was abroad - he's now back so has re-possessed it, and as my Defender project is now done, I'm driving that. Since I have so many projects, it's got to go. I'm faced with a bit of a dilemma though - do I put aside my other jobs to get it through an MOT, or do I sell it as is? I guess the answer to that will depend on whether anyone is looking for a D1 project... It's a P-registered 300 Tdi in Charleston Green - four doors, one sun roof; it has been modified for use as a shooting truck. It has an observation platform on the roof (so you can look over hedges when tracking down foxes), and all manner of other like additions. I have plated pretty well all of the chassis from the driver's seat back, and replaced the rear floor with thick steel plate. The sill area has all been done using the 'over-engineered' is good philosophy. Note: The photo of it attached here was taken a while back - it's got shabbier since then. Edited to add: The side steps are no longer on it, and the roof rack has been modified to go all the way forward to the sun roof. The left side passenger seat has been replaced with a large dog crate fixed to a bolted-down platform. It's rough as hell to look at, but has had a huge amount of money thrown at it - five good mud terrain tyres, an X-Brake disc handbrake, heavy duty steering bars, stainless exhaust, and so on. It smokes (oil) for the first mile or so, but once warm is miles better. It comes with a mass of spares - basically, I flat-packed another 300 Tdi that was beyond saving and kept all the good bits. To this end, there are spare wheels, doors, bonnet, tailgate, 120,000 mile 300 Tdi engine (minus the FIP and lift pump), seats, and boxes of smaller bits (I have scans of the log book, for anyone who would like to see it). So - if you were selling this package, what would you ask for it a) as is, and b) with MOT?
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