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  1. Today
  2. Nice example and welcome to the forum. I like your interesting choice of tyres.How is access to off road terrain in Turkey? It looks like there is space in your bumper for a winch. What are your plans for your Defender?
  3. Yesterday
  4. I guess you read my thread about me spraying with HVLP My HVLP set up is part of a larger tool selection we use on projects in the construction trade, so it wasn't ever bought to do what i'm using it for, but it works! The point i'm making is that it was an expensive piece of kit ( £1490 with 1 or 2 extras ) and uses a 5 stage turbine and an expensive gun (£500+) which allows minute adjustments on everything ( air/fluid/turbine ). Using it on celluse paints has shown the need to replace filters and liners much sooner as the paint and thinners upset the plastic/rubber in these. This also proves that great expensive equipment doesn't make a **** job any good if the bloke using it hasn't much of a clue! By that i mean me, not you 😂 but i'm learning ! I wouldn't recommend you spend out that much as compressor type guns are just as good if set up correctly from what i hear. My HVLP set up is not gravity fed either, the fluid chamber liner is under air pressure so can be used in any direction.
  5. Nice work! Do you use higher amps for thicker material? What does the porosity mean and why does it do it with lower gas pressure?
  6. I did notice on the N/S top that there is a stress crack on the bottom corner. It hasn't manifested itself into anything too bad, but the hairline crack is there. I'm considering riveting a small plate across it as tig welding is beyond me for the time being, at least it'll give it some benefit, if not alot
  7. Yup O/s and N/S were genuine but N/S is massively damaged, looks like someone tried to rip the door off so the hinge section of the Aluminium has split and the frame behind has rusted through. If you had time and patience you probably could repair the frame and re skin it, but i've enough on my plate without worrying about that for now. On the new door, the welds look ok and overall can't see any issues with it..it's a steel frame with a alu skin bonded to it, what can go wrong?! 😂 haven't fitted anything yet so that'll be the real test I ordered it on Sunday and it arrived on Tuesday which was pretty good for an Ebay purchase
  8. Its top mount, mid 80's with the fuel pipe running down through it. The tank had a baffle in it that was catching on the arm, both tank and sender are bearmach units. I had to bend the baffle in the fuel tank in the end to stop it fouling. So now, all set up correctly out of tank but when I put fuel in the low fuel lamp comes on basically where ever it sees fit, so the sweep arm in the sender unit must not be contacting the coil correctly or with too little pressure thus causing an inconsistent reading. I am pretty sure these are Smiths units as well but I could be wrong.
  9. Whats the quality like? Are the two door bottoms identical? I take it the o/s is genuine?
  10. Technically like a hoover but backwards. Yup that sums it up but it was a bloody expensive hoover!
  11. The O/S is perfect felt wise as it's new, but the N/S is older and thus rattles like buggery. I've got some new stuff being delivered by someone to replace the felt with a rubber channel which is lined with a softer material and is apparently the bee's knees, i'll let you know! The N/S door bottom was bought from Ebay; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-3-Defender-Front-Door-Bonded-395534-Left-Hand-IN-STOCK/372557337487?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  12. Well I don’t know. The RB stuff will never be a cheap solution but it looks so good and flexible. The steel seemed like the best way but needs so much more skill and there’s considerably more content in the work.
  13. When I installed my air compressor, originally bought to spray a Series 3, I deliberately ran the air through metal pipe work for several metres, before the regulator and connection. The first two metres of pipe were vertical and the next two or three just a little off horizontal. The thinking was that the surface area would allow the air to cool and the moisture to condense and run back to the tank.
  14. Exactly the same tops as mine, they are a great bit of kit, check the felt is still working to stop them rattling. Can I ask where you got the bottoms from?
  15. And we're back - and they've got lights in all the bays now so everyone could see what they're doing! This week was the final week of MIG and was basically doing a few more practice pieces - for most people that was making the cube (clamping, tacking up, prolonged welding with an ever warmer glove ) but as I'd already made a cube it was on to some other test/practice pieces to work on torch control; Keeping the height and angle consistent throughout this was a decent little teaser - went a bit high in the middle. This sums up most of my evening - there's a big box of metal ready to practice so I banged out a load of practice pieces! Clockwise from top left - an edge joint / seam, tricky to keep the torch steady hovering above it. Then inside corners, again trying to keep going and consistent while the angle changes, then the circle - this went far better than I expected but definitely tests you, continually rotating the torch & keeping it on target. I also welded the outside of the angle pieces later as a bit more practice, keeping steady & neat round the corner is the tricky part. So, as I'd piled up a load of test pieces by now the tutor put me on to a new thing - spray transfer, AKA "this one goes up to 11" So, big bit of plate and big lump of bar, meet ~200amps... Apart from getting a very hot glove, I discovered that the torch was a bit clogged and the gas could've been wound up a bit, hence the textbook porosity So, clean torch, gas up to 11, try again; I don't think it'll fall apart anytime soon Meanwhile H had been turning out more practice pieces and then moved on to the cube: Anyway - next week is TIG
  16. Hi guys thank you very much. Yes, Stephen I did exactly as you said, l first sprayed it with release agent, then placed a pin punch on the pin tapped the top of the punch gently with the switch knob resting in a v block, it finally moved and released the knob, no damage done, thank you. Billy.
  17. Those are the early type eccentric holed washers used on early 90 hardtop mounting. They are smaller diameter than the threaded spacers
  18. Just checked on a spare it is how I said regards Stephen oh and by the way welcome to the forum
  19. It your still driving with no issues I would in the short term not let the tank get below 1/4 full not sure if defenders have a drain plug but ultimately I would drain/siphon the tank allow said contents to settle and then recover the diesel leaving any water behind it you can get access to a 12v fluid pump Lidl have had them for draining oil through dipstick you could use one of them ps I filled my 200 tdi with petrol once so it happens to all of us at some point regards Stephen
  20. decent compressor, and a water trap are essential. a good heater to grt a decent temperature in he shed a dehumidifier makes life easier, the HVLP spray guns from screwfix are very good for the price. i have 4. does a good job considering....
  21. October 2015 110 Puma Utility One small mistake ........................................ We live in an area thats been pretty badly flooded, and at the end of the week recently I made mistake number one, and headed home very low on fuel (knowing that I had 2 cans of fuel at home and wasnt planning on going anywhere that week-end) Sunday evening we got a call to rescue a 'maiden in distress' who was stranded unable to get home after spending most of the day trying to find a route through the floods. We set off in a hurry and brough her back to stay for the night, the fuel light came on, and I calculated we would make it home, which we did. Early next morning, in the dark, in the most vile, wet, and gale-force windy conditions I dumped one can into the tank and set off for the nearest petrol station (11 miles away) - I was a bit concerned that the fuel light didnt extinguish, but waded through some significant water (everywhere, up to 2 feet deep at times). after the first couple of miles the fuel light went off, and I noted that the fuel guage started rising (to about an eighth of a tank indicated) I was suprised, (I NEVER let the tank drop below 1/4 - so had no idea about whether this was normal or not) When I jumped out at the pumps I was devasted to see the fuel cap dangling off! Stunned I brimed it (with the usual Shell V Power) and depressed and embarassed I went to work. Its taken the last 2 weeks to steel myself to even thinking about admitting this stupididty publicly. The continuing issues with the continuing extreme weather (combined with my dodgy knees) have stopped me getting underneath the tank to investigate draining it. So - what should I do? Drain it is the obvious answer, but given my circumstances I wont get to this anytime soon, are there any other options -? (its also fair to say that I'm pretty incompetent mechanically - I can (could, pre recent legislation ) wire houses, plumb, work stone, Oak Frame, and carpenter, (and back in the day fix appliances like VCRs) but I have zero success with vehicles (even though I have 6 including a '55 S1, 79 V8 110, and my forever Defender - which is the only Brand New vehicle Ive ever bought, and didnt take delivery of until it was dry enough to drive it stright to the guy who waxoiled it. In the immdeiate short term - is there anything I should put in the tank to deal with this? Am I imagining that the flood water dumped 1/8th of a tank's worth of water into the tank apologies for the long post - I'll admit I'm an idiot and very embarssed - hence the 2 weeks to pluck up the nerev to even post this! Thanks if you are still reading this B
  22. Red90


    Adding a P38 axle will give you a weaker axle and cost you a LOT more money, no matter have much you hand over to Nigel.
  23. Red90


    No. That is incorrect. You do not seem to understand what is going on. Putting in a locker to a Salisbury does not make it weaker.
  24. Which is what I said above take the centre out of a Salisbury axle and fit a locker and you’ve lost all the strength, it becomes no stronger than a rover axle , so an upgraded short nose would be stronger
  25. Red90


    This is quite wrong. The entire center is many times stronger than a Rover center. The crown wheel and pinion and any differential you can install. You will never break it. No matter how much money you put into a Rover center, it will never be even half the strength of the Salisbury center. The halfshafts are the same size as on Rover axles, BUT the stock ones are a lot stronger than what LR used in the Rover axles. You can also upgrade these to chrome moly. It makes zero sense to get rid of the Salisbury. Put in a Truetrac or a Detroit locker and Ashcroft shafts and you are good to go. The P38 short nose is a crappy design. In addition to what you would have spent on the Salisbury, you will need a new propshaft and then it will still be able to have a R&P failure at any time.
  26. Ed thanks for taking the time to look over these. Much appreciated Not sure I have the “key page” but I’m pretty sure your correct from what I remember reading. Colours, 2.5 being the wire size and yes the last number is the length of that particular piece I am carp at vehicle wiring, or so I thought, but I did come to the same conclusion as yourself as in these are the ones I need to power yellow/ red 12v via 30a fuse brown/ red 12v via 30a fuse grey/yellow 12v via 15a fuse. plus the grounds you mention fingers crossed I’ll have a play at weekend many thanks again. I’ll let you know if successful
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