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It's still more components with a chance to fail, however slight that chance might be.

Well now I can't remember which one I fitted to the 109 but it's definitely one of those two Edit - this one: And it fits this gear and works:

I'm aware of the YBE100540 sensor, and that electrically it's different to the more common YBE100530. I'm curious to know what gear fits the end of it, since the 'speedo gear' question pops up every now and again.

Used to be AMR1253 https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1231/27317/27318/2046/27397 YBE100530 is the green body version for Td5 90/110 electronic speedo

YBE100540

Every day a schoolday! Never seen one of those, any idea for a part number?

I bought 5lts of paint for my ibex and it was enough for 3 good coats, plus 3 coats on a Sankey tool box trailer. Mike

Definitely no. 4 Valves per cylinder have not double risk than 2. It stays the same.

I think I replaced mine with 8mm countersunk Allen screws, the hex is much more reliable than a Phillips or pozi head.

The 300tdi disco had a transducer which has a much smaller square drive than the speedo cable, the gear has to be changed to fit a cable.

I have a 2005 TD4 Freelander and need to remove one of the injectors which is well and truly stuck in the engine. Does anyone have a recommendation for the best tool kit to purchase for this task? It wont get much use, but I dont want to damage anything in the process. Appreciate the help Thanks

Or, more accurately, how many square metres of body do I need to cover on a soft-top 110? Yep, I'm planning ahead and thinking about paint. It may be wildly optimistic but that's me...

Anything that's adding extra complication, even if it's made from quality parts, will still add to the risk of things going wrong. Just by the nature of there being extra components.

It is a good trailer I even barbequed a P38 on mine and it is still going strong.

I think it was a CT177 I hired to fetch my tractor … good trailer .. but I wouldn’t want a shipping container on it 🤣

Have carried some very odd loads on my CT177 which led me to want the flat bed too. The only thing I have damaged so far are the stupid foldable lights which I have now given up on.

Thanks Muddy , noted to favourites ....just in case Steve

Ed's mate CLH offer a 20x8 with twist locks that would be a good multipurpose or there are more skelly style older ones coming up on marketplace readily away. IMHO the CT177 is not strong enough without adequate bearers to spread the weight, the side rails and punched floor can be easily bent with machinery/industrial loads. The same can be said for the TB range, if you put something like a roller or tractor implement on you start bending the floor/sides up when strapping down if your not careful. I'm sure I have put this on before but a long time ago I moved a railway carriage body that had been used as a stable for ~50 years. We cut 6x6" posts to the right size to jam into the inside and strapped it all together with ratchet straps before using hi-lifts to rear one end up and winch it onto telegraph poles on the trailer with block and tackle shackled to the rear crossmember. This was all in a small croft in Redmire so access was limited to say to least, we had to have it higher on the trailer using the hil-lifts inside on the afore mentioned 6x6 beams this time to pass over a wall on the way out before lowering it back down.. It was a steady 20 mile journey back through mainly single track roads in low box. Anything can be done with enough care and thought but sometimes often you have to weigh up whether it is really worth it.

You are absolutely right ... but now I can't sleep anymore. I always think about all the parts in the truck😱 Good made parts don't increase risk. Cheap plastic scrap does.

Speedy cables and other similar recalibration companies do small gear boxes to plug into the drive cable as an alternative to recalibration of the speedo itself.

Similar to Elon Musk’s comment regarding Starship: “The best part is no part.”

It's not about errors - more plumbing means more things to get damaged, more parts means more parts that can fail, more weight means more stress on the vehicle, etc... the most reliable part is the one that's not fitted.

If I remember correctly, when you go to larger tyres than the standard 32", you move off the end of the range of available gears. So of the available gears, Blue is the nearest to correct. Of course, if all else fails, you can just fit whatever gear comes to hand, and reprogram the speedo to read correctly. Any chance a bit of the old speedo cable is stuck in the drive gear? I can't think why else it wouldn't fit, though I have found it a bit fiddly occasionally. As far as I've seen the speedo drive gears all have the same centre square.

That's all true, of course, but if one can only build something like this with additional sources of error, one should leave it alone. Did I already say that tinkering is fun? Your pic looks exactly like that 😉 I like to measure temps with IR Thermometer. Maybe thats why I didn´t build it yet

It does add cost, complexity, points of failure, and weight though... I just stick temperature telltale indicator labels around my vehicles and if anything ever shows it's got too hot I'll consider adding cooling - so far nothing ever has.