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  1. Yesterday
  2. With the extras I would go with £1250 and drop closer to £1000 if you have to get rid of, most people will kick off haggling a couple of hundred light Regards Stephen
  3. Anyone? When I last looked - albeit a few years ago now, Disco 1s with no MOT could easily be picked up for £500. But they just don't seem to be about any more, so I have no idea as to what to ask for mine. Would £1,000 for a complete vehicle plus quite a bit of another be about right?
  4. Pilfered from an app note by LittelFuse but shows some of the stuff the electronics is meant to survive. It's actually pretty simple these days to design electronics to handle automotive stuff and reverse polarity etc., there's quite a few chips these days that do it all in one.
  5. With my ghetto plating method, you could just dip the machined surface into the solution. So only the very end of the stud is subject to any witchcraft. Probably...😁 Cheers Dave
  6. I bought these yrs ago, really handy for awkward stuff and you can inch a bend along with them https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html Oh and I found them on Aliexpress for less than half what I paid lol
  7. I changed the complete set to TD5 ones, speedo is correct and the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate so I haven't needed to modify that. You may have just pointed out my problem then - I didn't realise the temp gauge went through the speedo, I thought it was a straight positive feed. So in short, I need to put in a new 12v feed from the fuse box and see if that solves it. Fridge, hold off on the resistors...
  8. Put it on the back burner for now I have a short front shaft I can turn down and try cutting splines in, if it works I will take yours in exchange Will keep you posted Regards Stephen
  9. I did the td5 dash speedo conversion a while back, the temp and fuel gauge didn't work correctly and sat at half way as someone mentioned above. I concluded the drive from the speedo head despite being wired up for ROW spec was duff. The speedo works fine however. I believe the td5 gauges work on PWM drive as I couldn't get much movement by shorting to + or -. I got a vdo vision temp gauge and sender which is nicely accurate in degrees c. The fuel gauge is taken care of with the td5 gauge and a gauge wizard from Spyda. This can be calibrated for fuel gauges/senders and other senders/gauges. A bonus was the output for the fuel low light which you can calibrate to flash at an even lower level to warn you of an impending walk.
  10. Oh my! this mean I don’t have to carry on with my manual shaper conversion?😂
  11. @dangerous doug I may or may not have bought one of these....... Regards Stephen
  12. Dredging an old thread back up as I'm trying to find some background on underdrive versions. Just stumbled across an older used underdrive to possibly buy. From pictures the attachment of the inner shaft to the planetary gear is different than other versions I have seen. The inner shaft is welded to the gear rather than a splined interface (attahced pic of example of unit like this disassembled on bench). I emailed Ashcroft and Dave wasn't sure this was a solution they had used or if it had been modified after sale at some point. Anyone seen something similar?
  13. Standard values close to that are 39 and 200, I'll see what I've got and pop a selection in the post.
  14. As I'm out of touch with current prices, I'm looking for value guidance... I took my D1 off the road when a mate asked me to babysit his D2 while he was abroad - he's now back so has re-possessed it, and as my Defender project is now done, I'm driving that. Since I have so many projects, it's got to go. I'm faced with a bit of a dilemma though - do I put aside my other jobs to get it through an MOT, or do I sell it as is? I guess the answer to that will depend on whether anyone is looking for a D1 project... It's a P-registered 300 Tdi in Charleston Green - four doors, one sun roof; it has been modified for use as a shooting truck. It has an observation platform on the roof (so you can look over hedges when tracking down foxes), and all manner of other like additions. I have plated pretty well all of the chassis from the driver's seat back, and replaced the rear floor with thick steel plate. The sill area has all been done using the 'over-engineered' is good philosophy. Note: The photo of it attached here was taken a while back - it's got shabbier since then. Edited to add: The side steps are no longer on it, and the roof rack has been modified to go all the way forward to the sun roof. The left side passenger seat has been replaced with a large dog crate fixed to a bolted-down platform. It's rough as hell to look at, but has had a huge amount of money thrown at it - five good mud terrain tyres, an X-Brake disc handbrake, heavy duty steering bars, stainless exhaust, and so on. It smokes (oil) for the first mile or so, but once warm is miles better. It comes with a mass of spares - basically, I flat-packed another 300 Tdi that was beyond saving and kept all the good bits. To this end, there are spare wheels, doors, bonnet, tailgate, 120,000 mile 300 Tdi engine (minus the FIP and lift pump), seats, and boxes of smaller bits (I have scans of the log book, for anyone who would like to see it). So - if you were selling this package, what would you ask for it a) as is, and b) with MOT?
  15. Hi, Not sure - try checking the wire colours with a wiring diagram to see what they should be for. Maybe for something you don't have fitted as there are redundant connections on mine. Griff
  16. Hi all My ignition has been giving me trouble for the past few weeks and i took it out to see if i could fix it. I managed to get it going but the ignition barrel will need replacing in the new future.. However when reinstalling it I am left with these 2 plugs which appear to have no home?(picture 1). I don't remember them being lose when I started so I am wondering if anyone can shed some light on their home or purpose? I did think that the big white one might marry with the striped one in the 2nd photo but they do not appear to want to do so and I don't want to force it until I know.. All suggestions and comments welcome
  17. Legend. I have shorted it and the needle does move, so now need to work on the temp being displayed. Explain like I'm five, though - what's the best selection of values? 38.47 ohms is 100c and 50 is 197.29, would that be enough?
  18. Sorry Jeremy, my poor attempt at humour. Interesting stuff that they're pursuing this though, not sure if it's a departure from their mission statement or a way to broaden the business to make the core product (Grenadier) more viable.
  19. I’m hoping so, and a little “chissssh chisssh” touch up here and there
  20. It’s my understanding that even zinc electro plating can cause it. To a lesser extent, but I did discuss it with a knowledgeable friend. I imagine at the least, dipping in the hydrochloric acid a part of that. These studs are Class 10.9, so not quite the top, but still considered high tensile.
  21. Last week
  22. Thanks for your additonal order, I'll get them in the post to you tomorrow. To return the spare grey connector, just send it back in the box, with the bubble wrap, I sent both of them to you in. My return address is on the rear of the box. Just stick a blank label over your address, the postage label, and the Special Delivery label, and use a 1st or 2nd class Large Letter stamp (they go-up in price (AGAIN!) by 15p, from 2nd April ☹️ ) Don't bother with eBay's return process, it's too complicated, more expensive than it needs to be, and can't cope with a partial return.
  23. I'm in a pub now, under the banner of "networking in London"... New Lucas switch ordered, arriving 2 April. Will update you all, HUGE THANKS!
  24. I'll post some photo's tomorrow, thank you Regards Stephen
  25. I don't have them - but I'm sure I could identify them. Looking on Google, there appears to be differences, depending on year of manufacture.
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