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  2. My data states 68mm too. 20mm shrink is probably to be expected after min of 20 years use. I would be getting a new spring and plunger to be safe.
  3. Sound clips sounds like a normal engine running.
  4. Got a 1989 110 originally a 2.5td running original narrow arm solid dis. Axle. Looking at replacing front callipers believe 1 of the part numbers is Rtc5573 Have changed front discs and pads with ferodo pads, rear mintex shoes and Delphi cylinders. New master cylinder and servo tested and works well but when towing the brakes are poor. The front caliper pistons were not as easy as I would of liked when pushing back in My question is, Is there a more modern/better caliper from a newer model that's a direct fit before ordering a new pair. I want to eventually fit discs the the rear salisbury axle but want to sort front axle first. Thanks in advance
  5. Today
  6. Yep, it stealth installs by default inside the dizzy in place of the mechanical points. It's a bolt on job too, so no need to drill, cut or otherwise modify. Biggest advantages over mechanical points are: Never needs adjusting Reliably makes the strongest spark it can manage Waterproof Won't furr up and corrode, needing replacement or fettling Won't kill the coil if you leave the ignition on Fair play and kudos for not wanting to chop it about, but even the most die hard of die hard rivet counters would have trouble grumbling about that particular mod
  7. Hi, welcome to the forum. If you do a search on the land rover 19J you'll be familiar with the reputation they have for cracking pistons and many people don't like them and fit a tdi instead. My 19J was rebuilt by myself a couple of years ago so I know it has no cracked pistons or anything else wrong, I didn't want to fit an engine that old without giving it a rebuild. Some people just vent the engine to the atmosphere but that will lead to oil leaks and oil vapour under the bonnet. My set up works well and I have no liquid oil getting into the air filter. So yes, in my view I would swap the system from your 2.5 NA to your 19J. I would also seriously consider pulling the head off to inspect the pistons and decide if you want to spend the money on that engine before you go any further.
  8. fella, ive got a blown up ex MOD 2.5 na and instead of going down the same line of another na, I got an old 89 19j, just for that little bit more power, thing is ive sent the turbo off for a refurb and the fella has come back and said that its been breathing quite heavy and gave me advice on what I should do before taking the head off, so googling it ive come up with your post, So what you are saying is to take all the breather bits and bobs off the old na and put them on the 19j as it was on the old na engine, and if that is the case what did you do with the breather pipe that comes from the back of the engine? Sorry if ive misunderstood but could do with some help here, a lot of the landy forums have frightened me ****less about breathing problems on 19js and don't want to see in destroy itself inside 500 miles
  9. Maybe we just agree to disagree again? I have a D2, a D3 and a 110 and it is the 110 that I do 2000 miles a month in, sure, the D3 is more comfortable, but I have no issue with the comfort in my 110 and the maintenance is cheaper as a bonus.
  10. Sound clip in post one. I'm working up the options. If I find something obvious that's wrong, and not too deep, I'll fix it and do it back up. If it's deeper (bearings), then I've the debate of recon Turner short block, or some degree of DIY full or part rebuild. There isn't much in the cost between Turner and DIY, if the crank, cam and bores are bad, it's cheaper to outsource to Turners. I'll aim to get to it in a week's time.
  11. Thanks for all the advice so far, still ploughing through my options (Good deal on fork may buy @ £50 from Britannica)
  12. I couldn't say, I haven't driven a Range Rover I'm afraid, it's rather like comparing apples and pears. I do have an 18 plate Seat to compare to and I'll take the 90's comfort over that any day. But it's subjective ... 😆😉
  13. Check the pivot too. Quite often they wear through the arm as the wear on the pivot has made a sharp lip around the edge.
  14. Brittanica Restorations in Ontario (he’s actually a Yorkshireman expat) does a very good fork mod using a nylon bearing, much like the everlasting Series III forks, Mail order. I don’t know how costly or quickly he could get one to you, but it’s a better mod than the usual flat bar or washer welded behind the pivot point.
  15. This bearing is practically against a face meaning the puller I have presses on the bearing cage, it can't get far enough in because the gap isn't big enough.
  16. 5k is a PFO quote - he doesn’t want the job, so wouldn’t do a good job even if you madly went for it. 3500 is steep, but should result in an immaculate job with thorough prep and a lot of trim removed for proper cover behind. Ask what they would be doing in terms of prep and coverage for the price.
  17. Yes, they are removable, and no damage should occur if you use the proper bearing removal tools and a puller. Even Halfords sell them.
  18. The only thing I find uncomfortable is the noise level in my 109. I used ‘90s era Defender seats, and while they could do with a bit more thigh support, they’re the most comfortable seats I have had in any car, including my 2009 90, RRC, friends’ RRS, D4, Volvo XC 90, BMW 5 Series, various Fords, Dodges, Hyundai’s and Kia’s. And moving the seats inboard 1.5-2” to the inboard bolt hole pattern of the Series seat base sorted the elbow issue, too. They can be comfortable with a little adjustment.
  19. Can anyone recommend a garage/specialist in the North East of England who can do a TD5 2002 Defender re-spray (interior & exterior)? So far been quoted £3500 and £5000 from two places.
  20. And don't just fit a new clutch fork or the same thing will happen again. Weld a reinforcement to the place where the pushrod wears out the fork. Then it will last for ever.
  21. Pull the other one - you can make Defenders a lot better than standard (and god knows enough people spend enough time & money trying) but even the best Defender out there is miles behind modern stuff in so many ways that are very hard to do anything about without a major re-engineering.
  22. Can the pressed on bearing on a differential be removed without sustaining damage? My reason for asking is I have an air-locker not working properly and the supplier is asking for the bearing removal and an accurate height measurement taken, any pressed on bearings I've removed and seen removed involved damaging the bearing.
  23. Paddock spares sell Britpart carp. Steer well clear of that brand. Even if you order genuine, they’ll often send you Britpart. Same with Craddock. I strongly recommend Dunsfold Land Rover.
  24. I think it won't be a bad idea to just replace the bushes. I've read good and bad stories about polybushes and most people tend to stay with OEM. This kit should do I guess? -> https://www.paddockspares.com/defsusrroe-rear-oe-bush-kit.html Can you replace these bushes with a hammer or do you need special tools like a press? I will replace the A frame ball joint as well. To make it an easier job, I'm leaning towards a full kit instead of only the joint. Britpart -> https://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html or Terrafirma -> http://www.terrafirma4x4store.co.uk/TF1129_A_FRAME_BALL_JOINT ?
  25. I’d also check the lengths of the radius and trailing arms - it’s quite possible one or more have been replaced with an incorrect spec or badly made aftermarket item of the wrong length.
  26. Yep, that suspension bush is loose. It doesn’t look distorted, so is probably just in need of tightening rather than replacing. The wheel rotation play doesn’t look bad, but it it is more than I’d expect. Rotate the wheel back and forth and look for play between the shaft protruding from the circlip and the star shaped flange behind the circlip - if there is any slack there, then the flanges are worn (the shafts are harder, so their splines maybe ok, but you won’t know until the flanges are separated from the shafts).
  27. Few US designers ever had that will...
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