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  2. Check the voltage at the multi-pin connection at the switch on the output side of the front SW button , (light green/black ?) it should be possible to separate the block enough to get the probe in and keep it connected , it sounds like you have a break between the switch and pump . cheers Steve b
  3. Cheers, it’s good to know that the gearchange will improve over time. Only done a few hundred miles at the moment so will keep an eye on it. The supplier recommended to use ATF in the box so hopefully that is all good. 👍
  4. Cheers James that’s what I thought , I measured the disco arms and they were inline with your workings out . I have had it working and it works fine , but I hadn’t quite got the center bar at the correct length , I needed to lengthen it a bit and I wanted to move the motor farther over .
  5. Hi, Made a mistake saying that i had power at the pump's plug, i don't have 12 volts, the multimeter is reading 0.08...
  6. My P38 O rings have gone and don't think I will have much of a problem replacing them jusdging by what I have read. I also noticed that the heater blower wasn't blowing and seem to remember that also was a common fault. Any ideas?
  7. I have found similar to Mo, gear changes do ease with time. However I’ve also found that Land Rover gearboxes are very sensitive to adjustment of the selector bias springs, so worth a go there perhaps? Do you know what oil was put in the new gearbox?
  8. OD fluid pump parts, old seals above their respective locations & new seals fitted. housing fitted ready for the concentric offset drive from main shaft. bottom part of pump assembly in place, the fluid way must match the rear case drilling pump relief valve seat in place, a ball bearing sits in the centre, it's spring in the end cap. ball bearing valve in place fluid pump end cap & spring, this was fitted & screwed down tight. all 3 caps tight in place, ready for the swap over to become the operational overdrive.
  9. If you mount the motor at one end then the two bars just set the starting position of the arms (first bar) and then the relative positions of them to each other (second bar). In theory the second bar is equal to the distance between the two wiper spindle holes. The first bar is whatever length is required to reach between the position of the motor’s arm in park position and the nearside spindle in the same - obviously this length will depend on where exactly you put the motor. If you use the centre position like a Disco then you’ll need to create exact length bars that span from the motor arm in the park position to both of the spindles in the same. Again these lengths will depend on where the motor is mounted. So they do matter, but they don’t set the sweep. That is set by the relative lengths of the wiper and spindle arms. I did the maths but haven’t tried it yet so will be interested to know if it works!
  10. I changed my LT77S for an Ashcroft rebuilt box a couple of months ago. The gearchange was very tight at first but over a thousand miles or so it has eased considerably and whilst still a little stiff still I expect it to continue to ease with use. I found the same with a previous gearbox from Ashcroft in about 2005, once again an LT77, which bothered me at the time but which eased with use until it was lovely. HTH Mo
  11. This afternoon & evening has mainly be taken up by fitting the new seals to the relief valve, fluid pump & replaced the seals on my newer spare solenoid & the new circular filter in to my original overdrives rear casing, the flat filter in sump & the magnetic strip cleaned, I also bought a new brake cone as well I know the existing cone was new but it only had about half the material thickness of the new one, didn't want to be taking the OD off again to replace the cone, some photo's below so & after fitting this lot to the 110 & doing a 18 mile test drive on local town roads, a run down to Hayle & back home along the A30, all seems to be OK, I'll check the fluid level in the morning, hopefully the OD should work fine now. I will add titles to each photo later. need my dinner Relief valve with new seals fitted & old seals above their respective locations relief valve sleeve in rear case of overdrive, the cut out & fluid drilling must be inline relief valve pin located in the rear case. the 2 springs located on the relief valve pin. relief valve outer sleeve located over the 2 springs & pin. then the end cap is screwed down tight. circular filter location. new circular main fliter,gasket & end cap with new seal fitted. new filter & gasket in place, then end cap is screwed down tight.
  12. Love the P38 and have been trying for 6 months to get mine on the road. Finally fixed the oil leak today, started the engine, heated it up and water spat from the o rings in the cab grr. P38's are plentiful and cheap as Arjan said. Go for it!!!
  13. Hi Andy I recon they are about 36mm OD guaranteed to have some at home on nights at the moment will check in the morning and let you know Regards Stephen
  14. Arjan

    am i mad?

    very good idea ! go for it.
  15. Cheers Steve , got that bit sorted I think , I’ve used the arms from the disco frame I brought and Retroanaconda had already kindly done the maths and they measured up fine it was just the length of the bars between the wiper arm and the motor I was asking about the whether the length mattered.
  16. Been tying some loose ends up ready for its MOT next Saturday 😁 And i know its not every ones cup of tea but i've decided to put the indicator warning lights here 😁
  17. after 5 or so years of landrover less life, i find myself hankering for another p38 v8 to go greenlaing in... please,,,,, talk me out of it! 😫
  18. Proper twinwall cable duct all ready to go 👍🏻
  19. Saying it stops after traversing a watersplash makes me think you should check your serpent. I've seen a few instances [generally presenting with alternator-charge issues in applications where there's a twin-battery setup and some serious electrical loads] where the serpent's drive-surface has become polished and - more importantly - the little grooves in the pulleys have become fillled with belt-wear debris/rust/mud so the little peaks on the belt can't settle all the way down into the grooves - meaning grip is compromised and you get poor charge/nasty-noises. A good indication of this is a brief 'twitter' noise when you turn the engine off. Answer: fit a new serpent [Gates/Dayco being the brands to go for] and vigorously wire-brush the pulleys to remove any clag from the grooves.
  20. I’ve just had a rebuilt R380 gearbox fitted to my 110 after a 5th bearing failure on the previous box. I’m finding with this new box that the gear change is very stiff and getting it in and out of the gates is quite difficult at times. I have the same synchro gears quick shift fitted as was in the original box and up until the point of failure the gearchange was quite slick on that so I’m at a loss as to what’s causing this. Clutch is new as is flywheel etc so I’m wondering if there is an adjustment of some description that can be made to improve the shift? 5th to 4th is particularly tight coming down the box.
  21. May I suggest you put in a tube ? Fit a "pull through cord" in them and putting in additional wiring in the future is so much easier..... Being Dutch etc. means we're a bit weird, but out here I have put in over 800 mtrs. of underground ducting (France has 5 x more lightning into the ground than Holland) and it makes life so much easier....
  22. DC_

    Does it matter?

    Runs a lot better too. Feels so much smoother 😎
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