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  2. rtbarton

    OT Perkins A3.152 Run dry of water

    Nothing obvious there.
  3. Badger110

    What to expect

    Indeed Bowie....that is until a 88" passes me by
  4. L19MUD

    OT Perkins A3.152 Run dry of water

    Well i must say 1960's Fordsons are easier to work on than TDV8 Range Rovers! Head off easily in less than an hour and a half. Its a copper gasket so its not so easy to spot if it has blown. On the plus side all three bores look good with no scoring. Pictures.... What do people think?
  5. GW8IZR

    Freelander2 td4 gs

    I can’t say if this is your problem without looking but .... to change the oil filter it’s a lot easier if you remove the air pipe that is in the way, when you re fit the old hose it’s a bit of a fiddle and after 10 years the pipes are often a bit crabby the oil in the pipes can leak out and that’s where they often drip. HTH Regards Paul
  6. Today
  7. V8 Freak

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    If you're going onside, here's a pic of the brake / clutch material for comparison to new... And the obligatory pic of the new spragg clutch.. And springs... Might be worth checking the piston that generates the oil pressure? I'm assuming it needs oil pressure to hold the brake / clutch material into the Overdrive position to make drive go through the planetary gears? (Effectively the cone is a brake not a clutch) Or do as Rich suggests and build one from the best parts of both?
  8. The almost winning car is for sale: It would be marriage limiting buying this thing, but 😎.
  9. western

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    No worries, going to remove the big filter tomorrow if I can get the cap off & giveit a good clean, actually looking inside from the bottom plate it looks quite clean, didn't have any big bits fall out when the bottom plate was removed.
  10. V8 Freak

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    Sorry to see this Ralph.... After new clutch / brake material, springs, filter and spragg clutch it was behaving itself until it ran low on oil. As I explained before, we only discovered the oil leak once we made camp that night and it was taken out that evening. It wasn't slipping all the time.. Only on a few occasions but once we discovered the leak it was safest to remove it.... It sat un-touched in the box as you got it for two years.... I believed it to be in good order but didn't have any vehicle to fit it to...
  11. Simon_CSK

    Radiator stop leak

    I was recommended to us block sealer from a very reputable local engineer and it is/was a very thin liquid which sealed the leak by filling the hole with a microscopic skim of ceramic. It didn't work the first time but after a second try it worked perfectly. That was on my CSK when the block went pourous. There are lots of "modern stuff" that works great and doesn't fur up the system.
  12. Retroanaconda

    Bulkhead woes

    I wouldn’t put silicone anywhere near anything that you might want to paint in the future.
  13. Bowie69

    What to expect

    I see rose tinted have been removed
  14. Go for it, no harm to be done just doing port matching. Don't do much about around the valve, just smooth any roughness if do go in there. Then get a three angle valve seat job done and likely you will be very close if not in the same place as a Turner head.
  15. dave88sw

    Piston rings

    Hoping someone can help put my mind at ease. I've just bought a set of piston rings for an engine i'm rebuilding. They're a good brand, ordered from my local engine remanufacturer who uses the brand for all of his rebuilds. When comparing them to the old rings, the top ring is a fair bit narrower (when viewed from the top, they're the same thickness where they fit in the groove). Should this matter? I imagine it should be fine as it's plenty wide enough to engage in the groove. The ring gap is within spec in all cylinders. Picture: Top ring is original, lower one is the new ring.
  16. I put this here, to give it more exposure (no involvement): https://bicesterheritage.co.uk/whaton/land-rover-legends-2/ Daan
  17. Gazzar

    What to expect

  18. deep

    Finally took the new kid out!

    I'll have to look up how big a "bar" is but looks like around a third of road pressure, so ta for that. There's definitely a trade-off between unsprung weight and the flexibility of a deep sidewall. It's interesting how the Series Land Rovers in the background of the dune clip look to be going so well. Skinny tyres at low pressure plus a light vehicle all come together, as I know from experience. I enjoyed all those videos, thanks again.
  19. It is on again this year; Shame my landy has no MOT.. https://bicesterheritage.co.uk/whaton/land-rover-legends-2/ Daan
  20. P38 Paul

    P38 Courtesy lights not working .

    That's OK , I'm good at wigglin 😏
  21. Cornish Rattler

    Which shock absorbers

    Yeah thinking about it mine i had on my last 2a was ES9000's not sure what the difference is between the 3000's and 9000's so mite look at something else instead.
  22. Escape

    P38 Courtesy lights not working .

    The latch halfway down the door, the bolts are on the outside but it's quite a wiggle to get it out...
  23. western

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    All removed now & on bench, original gear refitted & all good for going to work tomorrow. Will pull the OD filter either tomorrow evening or at the weekend.
  24. boycie

    P38 compression test

    Hi Folks my 4.6 Thor engined p38 has started to tick over lumpy and is down on power ,if you pull the plug leads on cylinders 3 and 5 it makes very little difference to the way the engine runs ,I’ve changed the plug leads and the coilpacks with some secondhand ones I had in the garage I’ve changed the plugs around but it’s still missing on cylinders 3 and 5 .I have ordered some new coilpacks,leads and plugs but in the meantime I want to carry out a compression test ,does anyone know what pressure I should expect to see from a healthy cylinder ?.
  25. diff ratios vs rpm at the limiter. ignore the gear ratios from 1-5 as those are guessed, and 6th ratio is a calculation from where i know the rpms sit at 56mph. all i did then was input the final drive ratio, and lower the max engine rpm till 6th gear read 56mph. crude but effective. first is 5.13:1 (current) second is 4.1: (this is the option i think id choose...) last is 3.73:1
  26. Badger110

    What to expect

    This has given me some food for thought. In it's current state, it will become borderline tedious driving long distances, although have great character. Dropping in a V8 of worth will require upgrades that will add to the overall expense and if i'm going that far along then i'm going to be stripping the chassis back and no doubt i will find more that needs doing and will become a full rebuild rather than a conversion. I'm thinking more of a 88" small project, do up the Bedford camper and continue to use the TDCi camper, then sell it later on with the bedford and look into a 300tdi pulse or similar. i do like the s2 & S2a's but with additional bodywork and weight, this one will struggle
  27. The head is at an engine shop in Kalmar where the guy's going to skim the head and pressure test for cracks. The injectors are off to Göteborg for servicing and plenty of orders placed yesterday. So I've been thinking since the head is off, why not port match the head and manifolds? There's a considerable difference from the gasket to both surfaces. I realise that Turner's offer a performance head, but I'm unable to find any side by side comparison of the 2 heads and I'm of the impression that the ports have been resized to match the manifolds. If that's the case then I can do that myself. On the other hand, does port matching on a 300tdi do anything, is it worth the effort? Will there be any ill affect from making the ports streamline, as an old mechanic I was talking to today suggested that some diesel engines need some resistance in it's ports to operate correctly. Todd.
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