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  1. Today
  2. HI I see two upper rad hoses for sale for the 4 cly 2a My car is a bit of a miss mash of different years parts Does any one know the differences between the two hoses offered for sale? Thank you
  3. Have to say though, if you like a conversion, the Rotodama does tick many boxes: http://www.rotodama.co.uk/ Daan
  4. oneandtwo

    Which shock absorbers

    My procomps didn’t last six months before rusting and seals failed. Craddocks wanted nothing to do with them. I replaced them with £15 each 109” one ton front dampers and 88” HD rears and have been fine for years.
  5. I don't have a TD5, mine is a 300TDi but I'm sure the wire colours are the same as mine although the connector reference numbers are not. P purple / PW purple white / PU purple blue / B black / BN black brown / SW slate white First of all, the red connector (B BN WB) is to connect an ultrasonic sensor in the roof headlining. On my vehicle (RHD) it is above the driver's head. You don't need to fit this for the alarm or lights to work. The interior lights rules are: Lamps are fed with permanent +12 volts on P and 0 volts on either B or PW. B allows local on/off switching at the lamp unit when selected ON and the 10AS controls via PW when the lamp unit is at DOOR. The 10AS alarm unit controls the lamps so that they switch on / off when doors are open / closed using the 0 volts side of the circuit via PW cables. It drives 0 volts on PW when the interior switch is in DOOR position (which selects PW rather than B). If the 10AS wants the lamps off it drives the PW wire to +12 volts and no current flows. A lamp is switched on by the 10AS driving this wire to 0 volts. The door sense (pillar switches) are supplying a 0 volts from the ground provided at their pillar screw, to the 10AS and are all connected in parallel via PU except the driver's door which as you have see, is on a separate circuit (SW) back to the 10AS. So passenger, 2nd row doors if you have them and the rear door, are all connected back on PW to the 10AS. Edit: Some clarity and also I think you need the wiring diagram for your vehicle.
  6. Sharp

    Painting a new Crossmember

    I haven't done mine yet but I've got the fxliner kit from buzzweld - http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/fxliner-1k-crossmember-bumper-refurbishing-kit.html. The crossmember on mine is about 3 or 4 years old, it had been left with the original paint and I gave it a coating of dinitrol while I was doing the chassis just over a year ago. Probably an element of user error and I didn't put it on thick enough but it started rusting around the edges pretty quickly and is covered in surface rust now.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Ok, so it"s a pretty long story... Bought a 110 TD5 a couple month ago, fitted with a fiberglass roof, that i'm planning to remove to put a factory one (the roof is leaking horribly and mess up all the door seals alignment etc...) so the previous owner who did that mistake also removed all the interior light and the volumetric sensor cause the roof is all in one piece, meaning that the headliner is part of the roof and can't be removed... So after inspection, there was only one door switch remaining... the front passenger door switch.... Driver side switch was missing, but found the wire (slate&white) in the engine bay and managed to route it back in the A pillar and reconnected it with its switch. Hurray ! the front doors reunited with their switches... Then i was off to take care of the rear doors switches, full of hope... no wires nothing and i don't understand how they are supposed to be connected to the loom.... It appears that i'm missing the rear side door switch, Lead-links AMR4991 Ok, but how and where the other end is connected and what's the routing of these Lead-links ? Same for the boot door switch wire ? So now that i explained the door switch story.... I'm missing the front and back interior light harnesses connecting to the main harness to make the interior lights working but i'm lost with all these different part numbers for the same part i checked on lrworkshop and there are no pictures of the wires... i have this connector with seems ok (color wise). What harness does it plug in ? rear light harness ? Then i have that one which is not ok color-wise (PN wire instead of PW in cavity 2) So which connector is the one related to the rear interior light ?, unfortunately its not specified in the manual. Both are marked as "main harness to interior lamp harness". And what are the parts number for the harnesses i have to order ? I don't have the RAVE software so i can't check with my vin code... Thanks for the help
  9. Bowie69

    P38 compression test

    Sounds good Stem seals go hard with age, another indicator that while it is top hat linered, it probably has done a fair few miles. I'm still jealous though
  10. Simon_CSK

    td5 turbo

    Thanks Mo I had a spare Intercooler so have fitted that and dried out the pipes. Drove about 100 miles today and everything seems fine so hopefully now I can go back to sorting my Range Rover.
  11. boycie

    P38 compression test

    Hi Bowie every thing seems fine the head bolts seemed ok the head looks flat all the valves look good ,the only thing I could find not a 100% is the valve stem seal were hard ,so Iv replaced them it’s a bit of a mystery to be honest .
  12. boycie

    P38 compression test

    Spent the day grinding valves and changing valve stem oil seals the head is back on I’ll strip the other one tomorrow ,I don’t mind telling you it’s a bit hairy to say the least torquing the head down I said to Jackie make sure there is a clean pair of pants on standby I’ve got to go around another 90 degrees .
  13. western

    Military color codes

    Lots of colour charts on https://www.e-paint.co.uk/chart_options.asp
  14. western

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    It's not sealant, just black gunge, I haven't done anymore to it so far, need some more ATF, going tohave another look at it tomorrow or monday.
  15. rfuhrich

    Military color codes

    Hi all, I bought last year in Norway a Land Rover 109 1975 Series 3 ex-military vehicle. Have someone from you the RAL codes for the colours used for the camouflage of this cars ? Or a link where i can find this information ? Thank you in advance Richard
  16. Snagger

    300tdi’s heating

    Check the coolant hoses for unevenness, swelling and excessive softness - one may have delaminated internally and blocked coolant flow. Then consider the pump - it's not unknown for the impeller to slip or separate from the drive shaft, but you'll only know by removing it.
  17. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    What is that? It looks like it could be broken up sealant. Was it you who has to encase the sensor in epoxy due to a broken plastic casing? Any of that on the clutch packs or in the solenoid system could cause slipping.
  18. Cornish Rattler

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    Ordered some more bits yesterday so once they have rolled in I can start fitting them
  19. Pretty much yes...looks like he’s used the s2a windscreen and adjusted the bulkhead to take it. its got a few tarty bits on it but it would be interesting to see what it goes like with a 200tdi in it loaded up like that
  20. Green200tdi

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    So today have fitted the led lights with plugs to go in to the td5 loom, and the original 110 wiper motor works a treat on this loom off slow fast and intermittent something I never had before 👍
  21. ianmayco68

    Heater size help

    Yes I’ve seen there stuff, they make some nice gear . There part of the back up plan , was looking into the others as there cheap over here seen a couple on eBay for £20 , will have a look at the VW units, cheers Arjan.
  22. Arjan

    Heater size help

    Hmm...... T7 sells very nice stuff. I have a Canadian heater in the 110 and that thing doubles as an oven.. However, they are big... VW Polo units fit very well
  23. Look what has just pooped up on facebook now. Just what you were thinking of originally maybe?? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/402660150537259/ Jon
  24. FridgeFreezer

    Buying a Range Rover classic

    Yes - an honestly crusty one!
  25. lo-fi

    P38 compression test

    What a lovely surprise! Have a good look for wear on the rockers and shafts, they're often worn with the cam. Worth checking if you've got a lovely new cam to go in it Check the head for warpage with a straightedge too, just to be sure it's not that that caused the gasket failure.
  26. Bowie69

    P38 compression test

    Did the head bolt and head surface survive the heat? The tops of the heads look pretty grubby, as does the Valley. My guess is that is that it has had the top hat liner block for a while, and not had that many oil changes since. Good job on changing the cam, should wake things up a bit
  27. boycie

    P38 compression test

    Thanks Bowie I thought it was ,I was like a dog with two tails when I saw those liners but I was not a hundred percent you have confirmed it for me .The heads look newish as well so I’ll take my time putting it back together, I have a Kent cam to go in it .
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