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  2. hi guys, I'm trying to work out the height of my driver's side springs wrt the OEM ones, but I'm seeing some weird numbers. I jacked up the car and measured the front springs, which are supposed to be 395mm (Old Man Emu 760). But I measured them to be 340mm +-5mm. When I look at http://red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html, the standard spring for a 90 Puma (REB500200 / 9446) is supposed to be 15.19in/385mm. Other than the extra Frontrunner bullbar, there's no other weight on the car. Surely my OME spring can't have sagged by a whopping 55mm in 9 years!???
  3. Looks like a D2 by the door handle shape
  4. I bought an OEM 'Borg Warner' unit from Island 4x4 - I wasnt sure mine was working, so thought I would replace it anyway. You could hear the thing locked all of the time. Weeks and weeks later , once I finally got them to respond it then took months to get a refund - dreadful servive. I just put the old one back on in the end!
  5. Today
  6. Good work Simon! As you say, once you feel the car wanting to move, oil is getting where it needs to be, mainly the torque converter. One thing I would do differently compared to the list above, is remove the filler plug first. That way you're sure it can be removed (they can be pretty stuck on if not removed for some time), and it will give you a more steady flow when draining. I also think it doesn't matterif the gearbox isn't cold when draining, just be careful with hot oil spilling (just like you would when draining the engine). Letting it sit overnight definitely helps, 7 to 8 litres is what I usually get out. Filip
  7. I am afraid Gazzars info is out of date since the centralisation at Swansea. Steve G is mostly right, the Dutch docs should be enough proof of age. DVLA are a bit iffy about Heritage Certificates, mostly they will not accept them, quoting the possibility of transcription errors (although occasionally one gets through) If dating is a problem (shouldnt be if you know the original UK reg then do a V888 search through DVLA, that should pull up previous documents including the V5 from before you exported it and the date will be on there. Also if you can get an authenticated copy of the relevent page from Glass's check book then that is usually accepted. By the way the standard rate for road tax for a camper less than 3.5 tonnes is either £240 or £260 I cant remember which, I just pay it when the reminder comes There is a time limit for applying for NOVA after the vehicle is imported (I think 14 days but I am not sure. Good luck Peter
  8. Another option for making it more pleasant would be a BMW straight 6 petrol. Quiet, powerful and more modern than a RV8. There are FB groups devoted to fitting them.
  9. Many Thanks for all of your help lads. Very much appreciated. Was getting a wee bit worried about the DVLA, read lots of wonderful stories about them.. The same when I took it across to the Netherlands. Cost me 3000 quid to import it, then they wanted another 3200 road tax every year. Till we complain to one of the bosses, telling him it was a campervan not an ordinary landy. After another inspection by the Dutch DVLA they let me import it on a camper plate. Still costing me 800 quid a year. Robbin BUGGERS.
  10. The approaching tax exemption is a modest factor now, but could become a huge factor soon, especially for diesels. The bigger issue, though, is the condition of the project vehicle. Rebuilds typically cost around twice the estimate of people like us. If the chassis, bulkhead and doors are in good order, then the rest if tidying up isn’t too expensive (unless you get a decent professional respray). Buzzweld’s chassis treatment and body cavity protection is costly looking at first glance, but quite economic in the long run (2/3 the price of a new chassis, without the labour of fitting it, and protects a lot more to boot). The big driver changes of the TDCI are the performance, heater, seating and noise. A little tuning with a V8 installation will give the power and sort out the bulk of the noise (leaving a pleasant one unless you fit a silly exhaust), a Webasto or Eberspächer type heater will sort the cabin warmth if the V8 doesn’t provide enough (unlikely to be needed, especially if you give the standard heater a good overhaul, cleaning the matrix inside and out) and seating can be changed easily if you find you do prefer the new type. The fallout of dieselgate will likely only get worse, so I think your rebuild idea has more merit than replacement, as long as the vehicle is sound now and you have the budget to do the conversion, tidy up and preservation work properly and without cutting corners.
  11. The bowing is normal and is the reason why Land Rover changed to the adjustable rail mounting for the the rear tub. The genuine NAS rear step even comes with a selection of shims to allow for the bowed crossmember ends.
  12. Yesterday
  13. I have had a couple of chassis from Designa Chassis, and both have been absolutely fine, as were the deviations from standard that I specified, one of which being a 90 chassis but with a series rear half, but to fit a 90 rear body. One thing that bothers me with replacement chassis nowadays are the rules, which amongst other things states that a new or replacement chassis MUST be of the same specification. From the late seventies /early eighties the chassis has been made with two "C" sections welded together, so strictly speaking, the four sides welded at the corners method of construction does not comply. I wonder if that would bring a problem if some jobsworth inspector wanted to be really pedantic ?
  14. And an autobox ……………………...
  15. Definitely not an SD1...…………… at least not any sort of UK spec one. Sherpa ambulance ?
  16. I should have posted this a while back.... August 31st at the Kelburn Castle country park..... just search defenderjam 😎👍
  17. Body is rather rough to be honest, with silver paint splashed over anything galved, Salisbury axle in the rear for some reason, lack of imagination when fitting the diesel heater. But yes, certainly not the sum cost of the new parts on it.
  18. Thanks for the many replies guys, much appreciated. It's certainly alot to think about..🤔 Let's say a tdci 110 is circa 15k at best.. my 110 is maybe worth 6k. If I threw 5k at mine, complete refresh of steering, bushes, shocks etc.. converted to V8 on lpg and a few other usability upgrades does that put me in a better position than a high mile tdci.. Silly dieselgate has now got diesel particulate on the edge of everyone's tounge (Mrs tommobot).. a car approaching tax exemption, with a petrol engine, that is usable.. oh my.. im arguing with myself.. I honestly think if my current 110, had a 'quiet' V8 and the perceived 'quality' of the interior of a tdci era car she would be happy..
  19. The form you need is V55/5 - download it from the gov.uk website, return it to dvla with insurance cert, MoT (MoT it on the dutch number plate, DVLA will modify the record when they process), dutch logbook, cheque for registration & tax - do NOVA process online beforehand as dvla need will check that before they start.
  20. Hello 9mpg! On a lighter note, someone please buy this before I do: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254332026585 Alwyas had a 'thing' for those Russian bread vans that seem to do the impossible, this is about as close as I think you can get for very little money (so far). Fibreglass cab, 4wd with front and rear diff locks, independent suspension, 660kg and 600cc engine! And somehow a 500kg payload....
  21. Range rover V8 turbo: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-janspeed-turbo-spares-or-repair/163815538229?hash=item26242abe35:g:pTsAAOSwAOVdUZXT Daan
  22. I have not had any issues with my Marsland chassis either although the person that changed it said it was out of alignment which has since been proved as not the case. Yes the Marslands chassis comes from GKN and as part of the issues I have with my so called expert chassis changer (more an egg spurt), I had an Certificate of Authenticity supplied by GKN. When I ordered my chassis it only took 3 weeks before it was ready, but that was two years ago and I was offered the choice of rear crossmembers. Toby
  23. I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.
  24. Here you go £20 for genuine. My current unit has been in there for 7 years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-VISCOUS-FAN-For-2-25-2-5-3-5-V8-PETROL-2-5NA-DIESEL-ERC5708/232870499688?epid=653216905&hash=item363829d568:g:2z8AAOSwnKdbYWQq&redirect=mobile
  25. No doubt wise words, bear. Thank you.
  26. Thank you for that, bear. It looks like a multi-pin connector? Will get to the car later to see. Do I need to identify a single lead (ie for the clutch) or can I just disconnect the connector complete, please?
  27. Progress Oil drained, sump off, filter changed, sump back on gearoil added and cycled gearbox three times with the third time the gearbox wanting to move the car. Next time I am back out I will do the final check of the level, one final cycle and then try and move the car. I take it that the movement of the car is evidence that the gearoil has reached the places that the gear oil needs to reach and that we are not far away from actually getting my car to drive.
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