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  2. If you have a leaking hub seal do yourself a favour and check that the axle breather is clear, the banjo bolts tend to attract carp, then the axle pressurises slightly when warm
  3. Hi all , popped over from the Defender forum for a bit of help . I’m modding the windscreen wipers on my project 300tdi 90 using the motor and linkages off a discovery 1 300tdi , I’ve got it mocked up and it looks like it will work nicely but before I put it all together I wanted to replace the little thin washer that fit in between the linkages to aid smooth movement and the clips that hold the linkages on the posts , but I can’t find any part numbers for these bits can anybody help with some please ? I’ve looked on the net and even trawled britcars parts pages but can’t find any, only parts diagrams I could find pictured it as a complete unit and didn’t list the individual bits , or were in Russian which I sadly don’t speak , any help would be most appreciated. cheers Ian to fit on here .
  4. You're not an idiot. It happens. We learn. We move on. Think it is an awesome truck !
  5. Today
  6. With the engine off, and on a flat surface, chock the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel. Put in gear and see how much play you have in the wheel, by rotating it back and forward.
  7. My 2007 - 2.4TDCI puma 110 will throw a clunk/bang upon gear change when accelerating. If I let the clutch go very slow, there is no clunk, everything is smooth, but if I let the clutch go at a normal pace, I get a clunk which comes from the back. After searching on Google, I think it might be 2 things, drivetrain related or A frame ball joint/bushes. Drivetrain, it could be the propshaft, diff or half shaft spline wear. To find out if it's drivetrain related or A frame related, is it a good idea to remove the rear propshaft and drive around without it? If the clunk is gone, it would be drivetrain? If the clunk is still present, it's A frame related?
  8. Top marks to Snagger and big thank you had a good look at the rear prop and why i didnt see this first off is my bad lot.was told before from a prop rebuilding guy that you should always take off a prop to properly check it but was being lazy☹️ also if you find that cups on the uj are shiny where the clip ring is it points to a failure? have taken rear prop off and locked diff whilst i source a new UJ. I do seem to have more backlash with only the front prop on On a 2nd point noticed my front left shock absorber bottom fixing is totally loose and although i tried to tighten need to soak the nut in wd40 first what with a needing to replace the rear transfer box output seal and possibly bearing, a rear hub seal,and a service my relaxing day ahead is gone thanks Propshaft_001.mp4
  9. it was damaged by a idiot (ergo me) not double checking it doesnt hit the strut when on full lock after changing the balljoint.... the others are fine.
  10. I think the damper will be the first thing to try. What's involved in changing that? And can it wait until I do the timing belt, this winter?
  11. Most def. a new underwear moment..... Have a good look at the other hoses perhaps ?
  12. I would fit an oil pressure gauge as standard, it gives you an idea of what is going on. BTW main bearings tend to rumble rather than knock. Crank damper is good to check. If the oil light is not flickering on tickover then I would suggest that it is probably not big ends (not infallible though). As a stop gap if it is only on tickover increase the tickover speed slightly until you solve the problem Good luck Peter
  13. Yesterday
  14. Made and fitted the brake pipes yesterday inc bled the brakes as well, oh and here are a couple of night pic's
  15. Well done on surviving that !! That ‘no brakes’ realisation is grim ...
  16. Not yet some more detail to go on the gun and then fit it to the stand regards Stephen
  17. Oh man, that *IS* nice... Love the ammo belt - I thought you'd finished it!
  18. Mine knocked and it was the damper - and I could reproduce it simply by rocking / rotating it from one direction to another with the belt off ....
  19. If that doesn’t work, and it can get to the Oxford area, I can get it to the Peterborough show for onward movement.
  20. Moved as NOT Vehicle technical
  21. All all I know is that if you live the grey and earth the purple it should all work
  22. Have to love a rammed to the hilt garage to work on projects! I remember someone dropping a 200tdi off at my garage once to replace the 19J..unfortuately it was at the door and the Landy was nose in...no room to get the engine down the side! trolley jacks and alot of swearing got it to the front end where it was needed 😁 look forward to the work being done Daan 👍
  23. Wow - thank you James, that would be wonderful.
  24. If both pins of the motor are showing live, it means that the circuit is earth switched. I assume the motor has a live feed on one of the pins, if you connect the other pin to earth the motor should run.
  25. PM me next weekend with an address and I'll post some of to you on Monday regards Stephen
  26. HI, so I’ve fitted mazda RX8 seats in my 110 all went well with passenger seat as it’s manual but the drivers seat is electric and does everything it should except move back and forward both pins at the motor are live🤔 ( I find bit strange) wired in as Thick grey, 12v thick purple, earth blue, heated seat (not using at mo) all working but back and forth🙄 any ideas?
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