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  2. That's mostly why I liked the little gas torch, I think it was am-tech or something equally cheap. You could get loads of heat into the wires quickly, then use the heat of the wire to melt the solder, which really draws it in. With the crappy soldering iron types I find I'm melting the solder on the iron then trying to get it to stick to the copper, which on a big wire it only does on the outside. So it seems like actual fire is the way to go.
  3. 2nd and 3rd vote for Portasol here, excellent bits of kit although you do have to watch where the exhaust port is pointed If you want an electric one, for wiring Land Rovers in a draughty garage you want a big dumb 50W+ one that can get plenty of heat into a wire quickly. Hacakaday.com have been all over the little USB rechargeable ones from China but I'm not sure they're going to have the oomph on bigger wires in a cold shed.
  4. Our cheap-ish 100W panels came from Alpha Batteries on eBay and are Bosch branded (on the silicon, not just a sticker). From trying to chip the glass off of one that got broken in transit (to see if I could replace the glass) I can tell you they are bonded together incredibly well, the whole surface area is bonded to the glass incredibly strongly and there was no way to get it off even when the glass had been shattered (courier dropped it on its corner!) - this is the panel miketomcat now has and even with shattered glass it's working fine.
  5. Hi , as per title I am losing the radio signal on the M5 between J5 Droitwich & J17 Bristol , around 50 miles when listening to Radio 2 , one of the strongest signals on FM , any ideas please .
  6. I agree on both counts, but could it be argued that the shape has been copied by those other makes because it was instantly "right" and iconic out of the box? This is similar to what has happened with big brands that got it right first time; Hoover being a generic term for a vacuum, Google when searching on the internet regardless of search engine being used. Brands have legally lost the ability to protect their copyright under these kinds of situations, it might be LR are just too late. I know that there are probably 50 pages of argument to be had over that as the LR is in itself a copy of the Jeep (as much as it might pain us to admit). Even the "iconic" Range Rover owes many design cues to the Bronco, so it's probably best LR don't lean too much on this sort of reasoning. The Jimny manages to look like all of the serious 4x4s in one shape, G Wagen, Jeep, Defender, even a bit of Land Cruiser.... I hate to say it, but I do want one. I hear they're rubbish on road, which only strengthens my yearning.
  7. Today
  8. I have this thread in my watched content list, so can refer back to it later,
  9. Yeah, I see! Thanks for this. That's good news.
  10. Mike. It was a good weekend. Did some gentle lanes, got to drive to some otherwise off limits places as well. Was nice to see so many in one place and a few old faces from the Ibex world. Hopefully they will organise another meet up sometime and I will get mine back together by then. Alex
  11. As I see it, one of the 'issues' about the old Defender shape which resulted in its discontinuation was the whole matter of pedestrian-safety: a Defender-style flat-front and protruding bumper is really rather unfriendly (gets you a low star-rating in the NCAP tests, potentially meaning increased insurance-costs too). Equally, the Defender-shape is about as aerodynamic as a medium-sized warehouse, which pushes-up your fuel consumption and grams-of-CO2-per-kilometre emissions in comparison to aerodynamically-smoother shapes, particularly at higher speeds. While some may hanker after retaining the "classic" Defender-shape, I'm happy to adopt the improved knowledge of automotive shapes that have been learned over the last half-century.
  12. Thanks Alex I'm really pleased with it and use it as my daily driver. Hopefully I'll be able to get to the next ibex meet as i missed the one last year by a couple of months. @Snagger the alternator is a straight swap mounting wise bar the m10 holes and upgrade to the wiring. I paid £20 for a second hand item but you do need to be careful to get the right one (The s#*tpart up grade is a Mondeo alternator by the looks of it). The pulley I used came off a Mondeo alternator that had been fitted to a 200tdi but looks to be relatively easy to fit and shim to line up. Mike
  13. My 200TDi will hit peak temps in excess of 850 degrees before the turbo, it starts to smell as well. Reliability hasn't been an issue. The harm is done when you hold them temps for long periods. Cruising it sits between 550 and 650.
  14. What, in the pub?!
  15. @snagger yes, you are right. One never knows. But keep in mind, that even chinese factories are producing A, B and C Parts. Not all of them have the same quality but look the same.
  16. Dave, Have you seen this? It’s not far from you :
  17. another idea: whats about the distance between the one way roller clutch and the pinion carrier? If it is to big, you could have the effect, that the cone clutch can't reach the annular carrier so easy. If its only 1 mm thicker, the spring will lose force, but gears are still in mesh. Just an idea.
  18. The shape is an interesting thing - those early Toyotas and the GWagen’s weren’t a million miles away in appearance - so I can’t see that Land Rover can own a slab sided box? Plus if the Jimny was 20% bigger that wouldn’t look amiss as an Ineos vehicle whilst keeping the look of a successor?
  19. This is why I recommend one or two washers under the spring, because this will not increase the springrate, but the force applied to the cone clutch. I had a look at the sketches In the lower part of the sketches you can see, that the cone clutch bypasses the planetary gear, it is in direct drive mode. That means, that friction must be between cone clutch and annular carrier. If the friction surface of the annular carrier is worn, each of the procedures regarding the spring must fail. This could only get better, when the inner clutch coating is thicker or the annular carrier is new.
  20. Or they make them all on a Friday? 😂
  21. The Fairey instructions say should only be used in third or fourth in high range, even behind a 2.25. Low range reduces the strain on the gearbox and overdrive, so it’ll be fine in all gears in low. As John says, they’re nowhere near as strong as the Roverdrive and they are prone to howling. They wear the splines on the clutch sleeve ( the bit on the gear box output shaft) and the corresponding splines on its input shaft. Have a look at the overdrive Gazzar advertised in the sale section for photos of worn splines. I don’t know how long a good one would last behind a Tdi, but serviced and driven sensibly, used as only a fifth gear, it should be ok. Roverdrive are having a lot of issues with their cheap bearings and gears failing over the last few years. My gears are fine, but I had to replace the bearings - a few failed after I had an oil leak, but they were bad to start with (cheap unbranded Chinese muck). Enjoy your weekend!
  22. I see it as a win - someone can produce something along the lines of what we love, and LR can’t stop them having abandoned the design and us.
  23. The Fairey overdrives were never very strong (and always whine), although a Series 4-pot has a fair bit less grunt than a V8 Range Rover so you'll probably get away with it. The modern Roamerdrives are much stronger and can be used in any gear with any engine.
  24. Yes, only just started doing this and while it is not a problem yet (other than the slow starting) , I am just thinking it may become a problem!! The rev counter was definetly fitted by LR - I have a recepit for it and it has never done the self check thing before. The rev counter is also working fine. I am thinking I may just get a sensor as spare and wait for it to fail - since it stops the engine dead. I have a spare glow plug timer and will try it just to see what happens just to see, as you say, there may be a switching glitch. Toby
  25. Yep. They sell tape measures, made of elastic.
  26. TIA, as we say around work - this is Africa. 😂
  27. When I first bought my TD5 I remember there being a hatch already cut in the rear floor. Had a wee rummage around tonight and it looks as though the PO has replaced the fuel pump in the past and I've now got handy access to it. I've read elsewhere that you can tap into the grey spare nipple in the image here. Anyone know how that works? Do you just cut the end off and attach a fuel hose or do you need a stand pipe of sorts?
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