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  2. It is a serious bitch to install these person I'm not that keen on, horrid devices.
  3. Yesterday
  4. What Gazzar said - also those colours are not LR colours; Green is switched fused ignition live in a Series, White is ignition live Red/white is gauge illumination Light green is the regulated side of the voltage regulator which you probably don't want for aftermarket gauges. Green/black is fuel sender (std S3) Green/blue is water temp (std. S3) There's no standard oil pressure sender on Series, Green/Brown was for oil temperature, the Range Rover diagram suggests light green / brown is the std. colour for oil pressure gauge.
  5. Correct, my Tdi is a 2006 model year, I bought it just before the Puma came out in case I didn't like the Puma. So it has the late axle fitted to all post 2002 vehicles. Coincidentally I also bought a late Puma in case I didn't like the next version ... which proved to be a much better judgement
  6. Don't know ATB side of things, Nige is probably best to weigh in but on the locker front he convinced me that swapping axles was a better choice. The main strength of the Salisbury diff is in the cross pin which you throw away with any conversion, ergo you don't have the main benefit anymore. The casing may be a bit stronger but is also a lot bigger and plough like. Then it came down to (for me) the locker and the various options were either rocking horse poo availability, had design faults, spares issues, or just downright expensive. The Ashcroft offering at the time hadn't been broken, was readily available and not too bad on price. My suspicion is that any ATB Salisbury component / diff is likely to have the same issues. So unless you're really wedded to keeping the axle a Salisbury then there are likely better and more cost effective options (based off very little research for ATBs).
  7. I'm curious. Are there options for the Salisbury axle?
  8. Do you have the standard wiring diagram? It's in the manual. Are these aftermarket gauges? Because, I think, the senders and gauges have to be matched in type, otherwise the signal will be meaningless.
  9. They do just bolt up but if you transfer calipers from the Salisbury (as I did) then the discs themselves are different (SDB100980L I think is the part number). The Td5 / Tdci axle have the same bolt pattern for the calipers but they've got a slightly different offset on the axles which mean the standard Salisbury disc clashes with the caliper. So in summary swap the axle, change discs, change prop I can't remember what length is required or a part number, I simply phoned Gwyn (Gwyn Lewis 4x4) and told him what I'd done and he bunged the correct length prop in the post for me.
  10. That’s an interesting thought Deep .... 🤔
  11. An interesting and helpful thread, thanks everyone. I had thought anything Ashcroft wouldn't work in my 1987 110 but now it looks like the front, at least, could have an ATB if I get 24-23 half shafts. I did actually blow a CV recently but it wasn't the axle end, it was the ball cage that broke (let's pretend that was because of its dubious military history and not my sieve of a memory in the lubrication department...). Shame about the Salisbury at the back end but there are a couple of other options to consider there (ARB and Detroit). Not that I have buckets of money lying around anyway. Just a little aside: I was told, years ago, by a couple of Land Rover anoraks that one of the reasons 10 spline shafts broke fairly easily was that the machining at the spline ends was unusually abrupt, creating a point of shear, rather than tapering off gently. It's true that all the snapped shafts I have seen broke exactly at the point where the splines start and I have seen a scary number of shafts twisted at that point. That being the case, the radiused-down Disco shaft may not be that weak?
  12. Ok understand now thanks. I should have looked at the ROW spec. The later axles just bolt-up then but with a longer prop. Are the TD5 and Tdci all the same so it doesn’t matter the exact age?
  13. If you can turn with a socket on the pulley, but not with the starter. It's the starter system.
  14. If the vehicle is not used much, you may have been "Moused"
  15. If you wanted an ATB in yours then it's probably easier to source a second hand axle off a Td5 or Tdci Defender which has the short nose diff in it then you can drop an Ashcroft ATB in there. I picked up an axle casing complete with hubs and discs for ÂŁ100 and Nige (@Hybrid_from_Hell) sourced a donor diff for me and then built it up (although I went pegged Ashlocker rather than ATB). Probably worth pricing up the different options, I suspect using a new axle wouldn't be that expensive compared to finding an ATB for the Salisbury.
  16. Yes they’re the ones cheers , to make life easier I did pop over to the disco forum and ask if there where part numbers for the parts but it appears it’s sold as a unit and the bits aren’t sold separately. I have found some now I’ll post the size up when I’m certain what it is, I think they’re m8 but might be 5/16., but it’s certain that the E clips aren’t any good as one popped off when it was working
  17. Bogmonster’s 110s are both the later type axle. His earlier one is a RoW spec one so late Td5 but with a tdi instead.
  18. 99% of the time when electrics are doing something weird that affects more than 1 thing it's a dodgy earth.
  19. Not yet as I've had a couple of teething problems mainly electrical but sorted now but plan to have it MOT'd by the time my 2 weeks hol's are over or earlier if possible
  20. Hope you don't mind a numpty question @BogMonster, I have a 110 TDi and it has a Salisbury rear axle. Reading this interesting thread and following through to investigate further, I see that the Ashcroft ATB isn't available for this type of axle. Have you changed yours or was it always something different (Rover)? For Salisbury axles is the only way, to go for a different brand of ATB and pay the additional money?
  21. A tight and snug fit with grease for ease of fitting
  22. Is it possibly leaking around the outside of the seal?
  23. I'll remove the 12v feed fuse & see what happens tomorrow on the way to work, that way I know no loose wiring will be flapping about underneath, it'll give the same affect as disconnecting the 12v feed on solenoid. the wiring in my 110 is fine it worked fine with the original OD fitted. borrowed from this website https://www.landypedia.de/index.php/Ăśberholung_eines_GKN_Overdrives it has 2 concentric coil springs this valve in both my OD rear cases is spotless clean & no apparent damage From left to right: Valve body, control piston, shims, springs, spring cup, front hole cover. Above is the cylinder of the dashpot Fuse removed & solenoid does NOT operate when ign is on & gear knob switch is switched to on.
  24. I have now replaced this seal twice with no difference. What am I doing wrong? Having stripped it down I put grease on the seal on the seating surface and the outside before I refitted it. Replaced the bottom pulley wheel with a know one and carefully replaced it on to the shaft. Started the engine and all was well. Gave it a little gas and it started to dribble oil. Given that it seals initially I suspect that there are no cracks in the casing. Help required I am so close to getting my car road worthy it is so frustrating.
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