Anglo-Frenchman Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 Hi, When I bought my 1993 200tdi 18 months ago it had about 100,000kms on the clock and ran at around 45/50psi when cruising at 110kmh. Since then I have done about 50,000kms and noticed that the pressure has fallen gradually to about 35/40psi. It tends to be higher just after oil changes every 10,000kms but then settles back. What I am wondering is if this is just the result of wear on the engine and if I need to change the oil thickness to help improve the pressure. I normally use Shell Helix Super 15/40 which I have generally considered to be a decent quality oil. I know many of the forum users rave about Difflock oil but for reasons of geography this is not an option. Ta, Ged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 I doubt whether that is anything to worry about, just keep an eye on it. A good 15w40 mineral oil is what I would use in any Tdi engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 Thanks for the reassurance. There is of course the possibility that the gauge is not reading correctly I suppose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 both of those pressures seem too low to me? i'd expect to see 4-5 bar at cruise dropping to 2-3bar at idle, these translate to approx 30-45psi at idle to 60-75psi at cruise it also expect to see 4-5bar when cold at all RPM's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 That's interesting. What's the prognosis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 my 200Tdi's oil pressure is around 40 to 45psi when cold immediatly after start up & drops to 15 to 20psi when at full working temperature, doesn't use any oil & runs really well with 288,350 miles to it's credit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share Posted September 1, 2007 Thanks Ralph, thats very reassurring. For some reason I have a bit of a fixation with the oil pressure and always am a bit concerned when I see the needle dropping back. The actual level is between the upper mark and the middle and I don't lose any through leakage or burning between oil changes which is good. Out of interest, what is the pressure gauge actually measuring? I notice that the needle tends to fluctuate depending on whether I'm cornering left or right? Thanks, Ged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 The gauge is fed from the pressure transmitter on the oil filter head, it should not fluctuate when cornring, mine doesn't, maybe your transmitter is playing up. I'm out & about shortly, so will try to get photo's of the gauge immediatly after start & while running at normal temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 According to my workshop manual, "Owner's edition", the oil pressure for all 4-cyl engines should be 35-65 psi with warm engine and at 2000 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share Posted September 1, 2007 Thanks. By the way Ralph, mine is capillary fed - I don't know if this makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 (edited) maybe. mines electric so that could explain it, 1st one immediatly after strart cold engine. 2nd after about 3 miles warming up nicely 3rd after 30 miles just before switching engine off. gauge has kpa x 100 above & psi below. Edited October 1, 2007 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Ralph, Were these taken with the engine at idle? Just wondering cos thats what my 200 seems to do. Hot, at idle I've got about 10psi. I just dont know whether to worry about it or not! I put all new bottom end shells in before I stuck the engien in so was expecting a bit more! I wonder if the oil pumps poorly...... Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 1st was @ idle just after starting the engine, others taken during a drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 This makes me feel better, my 90 exhibits exactly the same, 40-50psi at cold idle, up to 60psi cold driving. Hot idle drops to 15-20psi and 45-50psi driving. I have no viscous fan, so mine runs a bit warmer than normal, so I was wondering if I should look at a new water pump (the rad is only about 12 months old) as I have a suspicion that it is not cooling well enough. Have you looked at that to see if the pump is good? I was thinking the only option left after that would be to take the pump out and see if I could refurb it a bit. However looking at this, perhaps the gauge causes more worry than it saves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted October 5, 2007 Author Share Posted October 5, 2007 Well I've just ordered a new oil pump so will be fitting that shortly. I have noticed that together with a drop in pressure and the occasional flickering of the oil light when I brake sharply that the general temperature of the oil has increased. this leads me to suspect that the pump may not be circulating the oil as quick as it should. Will wait with bated breath and a bucket of Swarfega! Ged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 if the oil light flickers it's either the pressure sender playing up or the cooling fins in the radiator are crumbling into dust, a new rad cured the oil light flicker on mine, oil temp sits almost vertical on the gauge -- as you can see in my 3 photo's above, but does increase another segment to the right on long drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 As a matter of interest Ged, does your oil level stay the same, rise, or fall a bit between services? Any other things that make you feel it isn't running 100%? The reason I ask is that it is possible to to have your engine oil diluted by diesel. A lift pump can develop a small leak and leak fuel into the sump via the camshaft and if the injectors are faulty, they can 'wash' the bores and contaminate the sump oil over time. Even if you don't use ANY oil between services, it can sometimes mean that there is some being lost, but it is being replaced by diesel. Does the oil look very thin and smell particularly of fuel? Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 i also have just fitted a oil pressure guage as a form of preventative maintance, however on a hot engine it seems to run at less than 25Psi this is a lot les than the parameters of 40Psi at 2500 revs on warm enginge as stated in the land rover manual! i have a small oil leak onthe vacuum pump that has not seen it alter on the dipstick for around 1500 miles. what else could cause this low pressure reading? the pressure sender does look a little cheap should i change this first? if so where can i get one cause canny find them on paddocks or john craddocks hope i,m not hijacking this thread????? am i? sorrystill quite new and picking things up every day. dougstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 sorry think i have hi-jacked still new to the forum game any hoo forget the last comment. apolgies dougstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 sorry think i have hi-jacked still new to the forum game any hoo forget the last comment.apolgies dougstar Not a problem, your still on the same subject, see my photo's of my 200Tdi oil pressure above, this is on a 12 year old 280,000 mile engine. 25psi with a hot engine is fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 Hi, I've not noticed any particular fuel smells in the oil and I am pretty fussy (anal?) about the 6000 mile oil change. The level of the oil is pretty constant and I've pretty much stopped all leaks (other than one from the transfer box). Ralph, I didn't quite follow the connection between the fins on the radiator and the flickering oil light? Do you mean the oil cooler? Sorry, its probably me being a bit thick or too much cheap wine......... Is it possible to clean the cooler out? I wondered if the flow of oil through the system is being slowed down by clogged oil ways etc. Where is the sender located? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 The oil cooler is actually a long canister within the right hand end of the radiator casing, where the oil cooler hoses attach. it doesn't have fins like the radiator, it's cooled by the coolant running around it & taking the heat from it. if the radiator cannot get rid of all the heat through the fins it makes the oil warning light flash, as the oil gets too thin for the pump to keep a good flow rate going. it's normally the engine side rad fins at the 3 or 4 lower rows that crumlbe into rusty dust. it's not possible to remove the oil cooler from the rad without dismantling the radiator assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 Thanks for clearing that up Ralph. Presumably then the entire rad/cooler assembly has to replaced as one unit then. Ged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 yep - not a difficult job, you can use the defender or discovery 200tdi radiator as they are the same, mm4x4 sell them for £100 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Thanks for clearing that up Ralph. Presumably then the entire rad/cooler assembly has to replaced as one unit then.Ged Glad to help for a new rad see Steve a's reply ^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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