Comical Engineer Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I need to move the wheel on the splines. At the moment I feel like I'm driving permanently round a bend (symptom of owning a Disco perhaps) despite the tracking being OK. I have got the soft plastic cover off the horn push but can't work out how to get the rest of the bits out (see picture below) Would appreciate any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
python Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 is that not four clips i see there, try pushing them in a little and gently prise it out. might be wrong though so go easy, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stageonesimmo Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 (edited) you've only gone and pulled the top off the horn push! Best way to do it is to get a blunt flat blade screwdriver and push it into the side of whats left at a 45 degree angle to the face of the horn and gently prise the thing toward you, a bit will 'pop' over the lip of the horn push, just follow that round with the driver till it comes out or lever it onto its side and pull it out. Then disconnect the wire and off you go. Don't be scared to get rough with it as the foam of the wheel is pretty strong and will take it - mines been out countless times now and you wouldn't be able to tell looking at it. Its just a case then of un-doing the nut a couple of turns and waggling the wheel - loosen the wheel first or it can come free suddenly and smack you in the grinner if you take the nut all the way off to start with - do not ask how I know that! [edit] To put it back just reconnect the wire and push it into place - needs a firm even pressure then maybe a bit of screw driver action to centralize it. [edit] Edited January 23, 2008 by stageonesimmo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
python Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Its just a case then of un-doing the nut a couple of turns and waggling the wheel - loosen the wheel first or it can come free suddenly and smack you in the grinner - do not ask how I know that! i seen this with a mate of mine, took the nut off, gave it a wiggle. pulled on it and broke his nose. was messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stageonesimmo Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 The old defender 4 spoke plastic wheels are terrible for it - funny, unless its you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 If I can't get the horn push out in the morning, I'm going to hit it with one of my hammer selection. Possibly one of the big ones. Last time I smacked myself in the face with a steering wheel it was a 78 Midget. Caused minor damage only and some blue language. Compared to that rust bucket, Discos are a doddle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
python Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 goodluck mate.. keep the tissues handy in case its flies off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkymush Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 a man goes to the docs with a steering wheel down his pants .....doc says does it hurt..... the man replies no but its driving me nuts.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 put the nut back on a couple of turns.... stops it from hitting your nose. On a serious note though the hammer on the shaft technique is not recommended on the disco as it will cause the shaft to move downwards (as the impact is taken up on the collapsible column) and the wheel will contact the switch shroud when it all goes back together. the resultant squeak will drive you nuts. Ask me how I know!! I now drive with no plastic shroud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 I was joking about the hammer. I remember when I did the MG's wheel that the hammer didn't work (applied from below in an upward direction...) I eventually borrowed a puller from my dad. The puller is still in my toolbox ... along with the ball joint splitter, valve spring compressors and torque wrench that I also borrowed at various times from him. Oh, yes, and the shroud is on the list of jobs because the screw fixings lugs are broken and it wobbles about anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 If you only want to align the wheel to straight ahead, why not adjust the Longitudinal Steering Tube (the one off the drop arm) instead? Much easier & you don't need to touch the steering wheel gubbins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Comical Engineer, if the tracking is ok this means the steering wheel has been tampered with OR the drag link doesn't have the correct length OR both. I would leave the steering wheel alone but you can check and see if the nut looks in the factory position (marks left by tools, paint, dust etc). IIRC the steering wheel has 28 splines and this means you can turn it in aprox 13 degrees increments. You might be lucky to fall dead on or you might not. How could that be that drag link doesn't have the correct length? Simple. It could be bent OR/AND somebody replaced one or both the ball joints and didn't adjust it properly. The proper way to do it is like this: - jack up the front axle (be careful on your safety) - centralize the steering box: the drop arm has a 8mm hole, use a drill bit and steer slightly till the hole in the drop arm is aligned with the one in the back of the steering box case. - check if the steering wheel is aligned; adjust it if it isn't by removing it (roughly - 13 deg steps); if the steering wheel has an airbag you don't have to disconnect the battery as long as the key is NOT in the ignition while the airbag is disconnected (not your case) - remove the drill bit (unlock the steering box) and put the steering wheel dead ahead - adjust the length of the drag link until the wheels are straight ahead. You can start adjusting the drag link by setting it to 924 mm in length between the ball joint centers. Leave the clamps and nuts loose, drive around the block for a test and readjust the length until happy with the result. Then don't forget to tight everything back. I know that turning the steering wheel is the easy way. How will you do it depends on you and the state your Disco is - if it's a shed, do it the easy way. To remove a stubborn steering wheel I do like this: - remove what is to be removed to reach the nut - undo the nut all the way (to make sure it can come off) then put it back on but not all the way (allow 5-10 mm of clearance) - put your feet on the floor in front of the pedals (or other convenient hard places - not on the pedals) so that you can place your knees behind the steering wheel circle, one knee each side; adjust the steering column length if needed (if there is such such an option on that particular vehicle) - start pushing up the steering wheel with your knees, using the same muscles as when you try to stay on your toes (lift the heels from the floor) - get a plastic mallet or a regular hammer and a piece of wood and gently tap the steering shaft "on the head", be careful not to damage it - keep the pressure on the steering wheel while tapping otherwise is no use - the steering wheel will come off nice and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 CIPX2 Thanks for that info. I will do that when the weather warms up a bit! At the moment it's about 3°C outside and windy. When I did have the steering alignment checked, it wasn't far out but we couldn't shift the adjuster threads. I've soaked them in WD40 but haven't had a chance to have another go at them yet. I'm not sure of the history, but I suspect that the wheel has been off at some time in the past as it wasn't particularly tight, and nor was the wheel difficult to remove. Didn't even have to use any violence on it apart from a bit of waggling. My nose and face have not been rearranged! I'll settle for it being reasonably straight for now, I've been driving round with it at about the 10 to 4 position for the last 6 weeks (since I got it) and it's been driving me daft. Nonetheless, infor much appreciated and it's going on the list of jobs - currently standing at about 10 pages. No, it's not a shed, just needs a bit of TLC to get it back the way I want it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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