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Too much angle on UJ's


EFILandRover

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Hi,

some of you may have seen my 2a in the members section, and I have now come accross a major problem. I was going to adapt the 2a's driveshafts to the toyota diff (we've done one flange), but I have too much angle on the rear UJ's. I took one of them apart and clearenced it, but theres still stuff all travel in it. I have lifted the LR up on the hoist, and it binds before full it will have full articulation.

So... here are the options I have come up with

Extend the wheel base to 100" (PITA)

Use toyota UJ's on both ends of the shaft (they have lots of travel, id say over 45 degrees)

Use a toyota CV shaft (I have one in the garage)

Ignore it

Get my ass into gear, and drop a lexus v8 in there so I can use toyota UJ's

What do you think? what else could I do?

Cheers

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The problem with a toyota nose of the diff is it too long

I am lead to belive a Nissan Dif does not have such a long nose.

But it does have the same ratios.

The other option as you say is to put the toyota cv shaft on . Have seen it done before with no problems.

Most of the Landies with Nissan And toyota axels and diffs on have all be disco's Rangies and 110. The don't really have 90's in Aus

The only problem if you ignore it will go thought UJs like no tomorrow and vibrate on the road

BTW if you go 100" and coils. The axels under you dads nissan will fit straight on to it with no worries :)

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try remounting the rear axle assembly so that the diff is tilted up around 15 degrees.This gives equal UJ angles to cancel vibes without the need to keep the t/case and diff flanges on the same plane, and appreciably reduces the angle that the UJ's normally operate at. Similar problems on FC101 Landeys are cured with a 17 degree tilt but both front and rear axles need to be done and it's a big job on front.

Bill.

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try remounting the rear axle assembly so that the diff is tilted up around 15 degrees.This gives equal UJ angles to cancel vibes without the need to keep the t/case and diff flanges on the same plane, and appreciably reduces the angle that the UJ's normally operate at. Similar problems on FC101 Landeys are cured with a 17 degree tilt but both front and rear axles need to be done and it's a big job on front.

Bill.

Thanks for that. Its the kind of advice I was hoping for rather than have to adapt a CV shaft. My whole rear end is tacked (solidly) in place so its easy to adjust.

Cheers

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try remounting the rear axle assembly so that the diff is tilted up around 15 degrees.This gives equal UJ angles to cancel vibes without the need to keep the t/case and diff flanges on the same plane, and appreciably reduces the angle that the UJ's normally operate at. Similar problems on FC101 Landeys are cured with a 17 degree tilt but both front and rear axles need to be done and it's a big job on front.

Bill.

mmm interesting. doing research on this and other axels bits, so know some stuff about it but not done it yet so not all of it :) . Seen a few but going to put a set of nissan ones on my disco when i get round to it :)

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The problem with a toyota nose of the diff is it too long

I am lead to belive a Nissan Dif does not have such a long nose.

But it does have the same ratios.

The other option as you say is to put the toyota cv shaft on . Have seen it done before with no problems.

Most of the Landies with Nissan And toyota axels and diffs on have all be disco's Rangies and 110. The don't really have 90's in Aus

The only problem if you ignore it will go thought UJs like no tomorrow and vibrate on the road

BTW if you go 100" and coils. The axels under you dads nissan will fit straight on to it with no worries :)

Nissnan axles are a bit too much $$$ for me at the moment, they *may* go in later on.

Ive been eyeing up my dads axles, but he tells me to keep my eye off them ;)

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Thanks for that. Its the kind of advice I was hoping for rather than have to adapt a CV shaft. My whole rear end is tacked (solidly) in place so its easy to adjust.

Cheers

With the suggestion I made earlier, 15 degrees is an approximate starting point. The exact figure will be dependant on the length of your propshaft and the height of your suspension.You may also have to experiment with U Joint phasing at the slip joint, by trial and error, one spline at a time to get optimum results.Between my mates and myself we have modified around 10 swb Landeys in this manner with good results.

A word or three on CV Double Carden jointed shafts.

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A CV (double Carden) shaft,with cv at the t/case would only work satisfactorily anyway if you tilted the diff up so that the single UJ was almost straight. If you set it up perfectly straight the needle rollers would Brinell into the trunnions of the u joint cross, so an angle of around 3 degrees is required. Double Cardans are also intolerant of lateral misalignment, such as would be the case if you were to fit a Defender Salisbury,with its 3'' greater r/h/s offset into a Series vehicle. LandRover spec double Cardan joints have an extremely short life. The Aus military Perentie 6x6 LandRovers have a double carden joint on the forward end of the propshaft that drives the rearmost differential. They are usually knackered at around 45,000 km. Toyota ones tend to last much longer due to greasability.

Bill.

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Bill, I told my dad about how you do it, and he drew it up in photoshop, and it reduced the pinion from 20° to 10°.

But, is it supposed to be like this?

Pinion.jpg

And how does it drive on the road? i.e any problems with accelerating etc?

I went out to the workshop and took the springs out and disconnected the A-frame, and the angles look really good sitting there. And is there any problems with the driveshaft phasing?

Cheers

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Bill, I told my dad about how you do it, and he drew it up in photoshop, and it reduced the pinion from 20° to 10°.

But, is it supposed to be like this?

Pinion.jpg

And how does it drive on the road? i.e any problems with accelerating etc?

I went out to the workshop and took the springs out and disconnected the A-frame, and the angles look really good sitting there. And is there any problems with the driveshaft phasing?

Cheers

Yes EFI, that is how we do it. Any vibration during accelleration is dependant on the vertical separation distance of the upper and lower links and compliance of the bushings used. On a couple of friends series2 Landies with coils, ''A'' frame ,V8 350 Chev,110 Salisbury diffs etc there is the slightest degree of vibration under accelleration, nothing of any great concern, and cruising is vibration free, even on overun. An early conversion of my current Landy had reorganised Transit Van Salisbury type diffs on leaf springs, and suffered no driveshaft vibes at all. Propshaft phasing is simply a case of sliding the female splined slip joint off of the propshaft and trying another spline position, test driving to gauge vibration, trying another spline if required until you find a position that gives the best overall results. Land Rover themselves do a very similar thing on the front end of their coil sprung vehicles.

Bill.

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