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Weld on Diff pans, where from?


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About 3 years back I clouted the front diff on a hidden rock and put a nasty dint in the casing. Luckily no penetration or rubbing on the crownwheel resulted and I went straight out and bought some diff guards. Last night I see oil is comeing out from behind the diffguard, and its not just a drip, more of a dribble. So it seems the pan has finally given out. Now I have a spare axle but its nowhere near as good as this one (rusty mounts, leaking swivels etc) and I was planning an axle upgrade in the near futre anyway. So I think I would probably want to weld on a strengthened diff pan rather than making a simple repair.

So has anyone done this and if so any hints, and of course, where did you buy the part from? All hints gratefully received.

Mark

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About 3 years back I clouted the front diff on a hidden rock and put a nasty dint in the casing. Luckily no penetration or rubbing on the crownwheel resulted and I went straight out and bought some diff guards. Last night I see oil is comeing out from behind the diffguard, and its not just a drip, more of a dribble. So it seems the pan has finally given out. Now I have a spare axle but its nowhere near as good as this one (rusty mounts, leaking swivels etc) and I was planning an axle upgrade in the near futre anyway. So I think I would probably want to weld on a strengthened diff pan rather than making a simple repair.

So has anyone done this and if so any hints, and of course, where did you buy the part from? All hints gratefully received.

Mark

I did this and then years ago modded both axles, never been a prob since. Just takes a bit of time but virtually no cost :o)

Strip tghe casing, either paintstipper and clean the pan or as I did get shot blasted, then I just cut snipped and welded a series of bits of 6mm plate over the bottom 3/4s of the diff pan, leaving a hole for the filler :lol:

The trick is to tack up bits at a time, so the heat build up is none too heavy.

Job done, this axle has been on the old hybrid and now the 90.....loads of scrapes and scars no damage

Nige

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Sewer pipe cap -I've done this - indestructible. I used a 8" nominal bore, schedule 40 (the wall thickness - works out about 12mm), pipe cap. However it is a bit thick. I'd go for a schedule 30 or 20 if I were to do it again. I bought it from an industrial pipe fitting supplier.

I machined the 3/4" off the cap in a lathe. This allows you to reduce the inner diameter at the edges - avoids the need to cut and bend out the tabs for ring clearance.

This was 'tested' on the Ironman last year. Pipe cap 1, rock 0. Infact the rock fractured in to lumps (axles prob bent now!)

Adrian

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seen in one of the mags , that rake way now do a removable pan upgrade , ''think'' the pan is uprated with the additinal benifit of beeing able to remove the diff pan to cheak diff centre bolts , as sum arbs have a habit of the crown wheel bolts coming loose

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Ideally you want the axle casing off and stripped.

I'd second that; far easier to prep and weld everything up. It also allows you to remove some of the excess braketry from the casings and do other improvements like brake pipe protectors.

I've got a pair of axle casings half way through strip down on the bench ready for the treatment. Paul, if you're going to be making up some straight weld on pan's I'd have a pair off you as it'll save me a job B)

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Just been on to the site and they still do them. CAn't lint to the page as it is a frames site and I don't know how!

Quote

We have even made it better than the original by making it out of 16 gauge

steel and incorporating a central crown wheel guard in 6mm thick steel to

fend off rocks when off roading. The SPLR diff pan should outlive the rest

of your axle casing and transform your axle into 'as new' at a fraction of

the cost.

unquote

Main site isSteve Parker Then click on designed parts

HTH

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