Jump to content

** MegaSquirting a V8 - "Basics of How to" ... The A-Z Saga


Recommended Posts

Sorry to interupt Glenn,

Gent's I'm still at wiring stage on mine :rolleyes: can anybody confirm the wiring details for the EAV please?

I'v had a good read but I'm not sure of the pin out for a two wire system.

Many thanks,

Mick.

Which valve are you referring to?

If the Bosch then you need the added circuit on the board to beef up the output transistor then connect MS pin 30 to the valve and the other pin of the valve to +12v through a 2 amp fuse. It does not matter which way round the valve is wired.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the wires that go from the driver chips route through a hole in the board then back through another hole and then soldered on to tabs ontop of the board, I would have though looking at the thickness these must be the signal wires.

Glenn, can you post a picture of the inside of your ECU and post/PM me who built it as I'm not familiar with wires going through holes in the board :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Todays update!

Have sent Fridge a pm after removing ecu from landy, removed rear cover and cannot see any damage to wires or connections on back of ecu. On further inspection the Earth tag on the Driver D chip has snapped off, this is certainly the wires that I moved/prodded the other day when it all went mad, I couldn't see this broken connection the other day even though I inspected each connection so am left a little confused. The tag has snapped off right next to the chip so I dont think it is possible to resolder so new chip required and then I can try again.

I would certainly be missing 2 cylinders if this was the case but not sure why it would be backfiring though the inlet manifold.

Glenn

post-13421-1242037521_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Todays update!

Have sent Fridge a pm after removing ecu from landy, removed rear cover and cannot see any damage to wires or connections on back of ecu. On further inspection the Earth tag on the Driver D chip has snapped off, this is certainly the wires that I moved/prodded the other day when it all went mad, I couldn't see this broken connection the other day even though I inspected each connection so am left a little confused. The tag has snapped off right next to the chip so I dont think it is possible to resolder so new chip required and then I can try again.

I would certainly be missing 2 cylinders if this was the case but not sure why it would be backfiring though the inlet manifold.

Glenn

Glenn,

I have only scan read your problems, BUT I have been there and done that......... Over 2 years ago....... ask Fridgefreezer! (Tmobile enjoy coil pack driver problems!)

Eventually I had it running on coil packs reasonably well (if you can tolerate andom resets all the time) but the fault finding never ever stopped, for example, I soon found out that during winching, if the battery levels dropped too far, one reset and a wait of about 30mins for the battery to come alive again. Sounds strange I know, unexplainable by all the MS guru's but it happened.

I had the megasquirt box checked by multiple people, settings checked, double checked, triple checked and then checked again.

I saw off two batteries, 3 starter motors a rover coil pack, 1 fuel pump and about 15 years worth of stress tolerance.

In absolute need of my vehicle back off road I gave up, Fridge reverted my MSnS to MSnEdis and I HAVE NEVER LOOKED BACK

I fitted edis, it started first turn of the key and has never faulted since. It has had over 24months of total off road abuse (my RR is not a pretty site, nor is it looked after!)

Just a comment from experience, but bin the drivers and go Edis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rog,

Thanks for the info and Edis is certainly a route I am considering taking. All manufactures now run direct coil pack or coil on plug technology and everyone else on the megasquirt forums are also doing it, why wont the Rover V8?!! lol

I cannot even get mine to run properly no mind the resets and I know exactly what you mean about the frustration!

Many thanks for the help and advice.

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rog,

Thanks for the info and Edis is certainly a route I am considering taking. All manufactures now run direct coil pack or coil on plug technology and everyone else on the megasquirt forums are also doing it, why wont the Rover V8?!! lol

I cannot even get mine to run properly no mind the resets and I know exactly what you mean about the frustration!

Many thanks for the help and advice.

Glenn

Honestly Glenn, I wish somebody had managed to stop me being so stubborn earlier and swop to edis.

As you are doing now, it took me weeks to get the thing running, then months to run somewhere near.

A couple of milestones in getting the thing to start and run smoothly were:

Buying a whole bunch of spark plug leads, putting a multi meter acrross them and matching the resistance perfectly = some strange length leads.

Gapping the sparkplugs exactly the same as each other.

Creating Perfect earths for individual systems (I had MS earthing directly to the battery by quality cable) this removed 50% of resets.

But the random resets were so unpredictable, might not have one for 2 days, then I could have 15 within an hour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now... I have a saga... Resets..... since the 29/08/08 at 16.30 when HFH pinged me an Msq that made the motor run ( another saga.. ) I've never had resets, a few other problems, but no resets.. until I removed the heads to change the head gaskets . Once the job was completed I popped up the road on petrol and there were no issues until I switched to LPG. It would reset ticking over. It would reset at speed, which caused a back fire that trashed the flexy pipe for the snorkel, but switch back to petrol.. no reset.... :angry: The LPG system is a stand alone one that MS only changes spark map to make it run nice so it wasn't the MS. I took the multi meter to the whole of the LPG wiring.... nothing. I've changed the relays so that they are triggered by the earth and not live.... no difference... I've checked the main feed from the loom, the white and purple that feeds the fuel pump, for problems... nish. I've taken the coils off and checked that the wiring for those was not getting any bad interference from anywhere.. nope. I've spent 2 separate half day's with the gas man, who is woodytz on this forum, and this man knows his LPG stuff, we were stumped. A call to HFH to see if he could shed some light on the problem and we went through the normal checks such as:- how many earth points.. lot's Nige... that's a butchered 3.9 RRC loom in the car... I've cut all the surplus wiring out Nige.. Hmmmmm. Sent me some logs and I will have a look, says Nige so I have. Now since then and that was Tuesday we have both been doing our grown up stuff that pays the bills but I have found the problem....

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK guys, the good news is I have MS running, and running well, tuning is well under way and it goes like hot snot!

I do now have a small issue... and it has coincided with wiring up a pair of Mondeo ST220 fans in place of the viscous unit (by heck do they move a lot of air, and I can hear them in the house when they kick in through closed double glazed units :o).

Right, this is the circuit I am using (from DIY Autotune, but similar is on the MS site), in the proto area of the V3 board:

v3-switch-circuit-example.jpg

This is driving this circuit, albeit without the isolator switch for testing purposes:

post-4193-1242375057_thumb.jpg

and is feeding out through one of the IAC pins.

I've tested the output with no fan connected, and when up to the 'switch on' temp the wire goes to ground, and when down to the 'switch off' temp (just by shorting the relay feed to the truck body to kick the fans in) the wire is no longer grounded -hooray! Once I twisted the two wires (IAC output and relay ground) together, I get the fans turning on and off properly, exactly as I would want them too (at 90 and 87 until I change the thermostat for a 74C one).

Now to the problem... I turn off the ignition, then switch it back on and I get nothing. The power relay to the MS ECU clicks so that it definitely throwing it in, but I get no light on the ECU, Megatune fails to connect, fuel pump relay not firing, and if cranked, clearly it will not start. Ignition off, disconnect the IAC output/relay ground connection and ignition back on, the ECU boots up fine and the engine will start when cranked.

I measured the current flow between the IAC output and the relay ground and it's pulling ~300mA, which I don't think excessive, or is it? I will try just switching one relay today, when it stops raining (maybe better to get one relay to switch the other, thinking about it....) and see if that helps, but unsure where to go from there TBH.

Is it simply that the 2n2222A isn't man enough for the job?

Any ideas/experience on this, chaps?

Many thanks in advance :)

*Mods, if this is too techy for this thread, please feel free to move it to the other 'Advanced -we still don't know what we are doing, but a tiny bit more than some thread'.*

*edit* Tried driving just one relay, no dice, same as above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I got it sorted, partly me beig a dipstick, and partly a 'feature' of the MS ECU I think....

I had the switching circuit wired to permanent live, this was deliberate, as I was going to use a timer/relay to allow the fans to work for say 30 secs after the engine was switched off to avoid any heatsoak problems, although I had not wired it up to do this yet...

I tried some more testing, such as limiting the load seen by the ECU by inserting a 330R resistor in place of the relay switching coils, and the problem went away -this led me to conclude that either the ECU was handling too much current, or something was being fed back into the ECU to stop it working properly.

So.... ignoring the overloading issue (the above circuit is used in many instances, so assumed to be good), I examined the circuit again, and realised that when the ECU was switched off, current from the permanent live was allowed to be passed back through the diode to the banded side of D9, as the load was significant (the two relay coils) the voltage would not be a full 12V, but significantly less. Observing what happened when switching off the ignition in Megatune it seemed to half switch off rather than fully (some guages stayed active, rather than going red and dropping to a zero readng), confirming this might be a problem.

I assume the ECU went into a limbo state where it hadn't actually reset properly and hence not powering up the next power cycle.

So the solution, I wired the relay switching feed to an ignition live -job done, no more problem. I should have spotted it before, and it will compromise the fan wiring (without making it overly complicated anyways) but it is a solution that I thought worth sharing for others looking to do the same or driving other external loads with MS.

Hope this helps anyways!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The connector pins correspond to the coil pairs on the coil packs, so the left pin fires the left towers and the right pin fires the right ones. From that info, and the EDIS-8 wiring, you can connect your plug leads as per Nige's diagram:

coil_wiring.jpg

Gent's tried to start the truck today in "limp" mode as I need to move it off the drive so I can get a lathe into the workshop, can't get it to start though :blush:

It's chucking fuel in but not even trying to fire.

Looking at Nige's diagram can anybody confirm the edis pin out in relation to A , B , C & D please?

For the record I don't have the air temp, coolant temp, O2 sensor or idle valve connected (I've learn't that I have to upgrade a transistor so don't want to risk burning it out), think should at least fire shouldn't it?

Only other question I can think of asking is is the crank sensor polarity critical?

Sorry for all the questions but I've been on my own today so haven't had anybody to crank the engine whilst I check voltages.

Many thanks,

Mick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have coils and leads laid out as per the photo then wire as follows:-

Coil A Pin 3 wire to EDIS pin 8.

Coil B Pin 1 wire to EDIS pin 9.

Coil C Pin 3 wire to EDIS pin 11.

Coil D Pin 1 wire to EDIS pin 12.

Yes polarity of the VR sensor is important.

Hold the sensor to look into the connections so that the register (lump that makes sure you put the connector on round the right way0 is at the top.

Pin 1 is on the right (+ve) connects to EDIS Pin 5.

Pin 2 is on the left (-ve) connects to EDIS Pin 4.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And?

Steve

gallery_3150_282_9507.jpg

OK.. If you look at the screen shot the line is at a reset. The PWM valve really takes a hit, from 25% to 55% and thats whilst I'm at 2400 rpm and all the sensors are showing a blip. As I have mentioned the wiring has been looked at and tested, so when 3 of us were just looking and chatting about the problem with the bonnet up I noticed the MAT sensor wire was hanging down over the HT lead's............ :blush: moved the wire and guess what....

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's chucking fuel in but not even trying to fire.

If it's chucking in fuel then it's seeing RPM which means the EDIS is working. I suspect it might just be chucking in too much fuel, try changing the warmup table to all 100% values (obviously put your original settings back in later) to stop it overfuelling.

Check you have power to the centre pin of the coils.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This weeks update,

Having discovered the driver for coil pack D had a broken leg on the earth side, I obtained a replacement. Came to fit this and discovered that no 330ohm resistor had been fitted on the lead 1 to the driver chip, checked the others and they were the same. So I have now added the resistors and the new driver chip.

It starts and runs better but still sounds like it is missing 1 or 2 cylinders in a rhythmic pattern, clouds of unburnt fuel coming out of exhaust.

Next I marked up the crank pulley with timing marks for coil pack, b, c, and D then checked each plug was firing on the timing mark that it should have been. The initial few cycles of the engine can be a bit hit and miss but then they fire pretty much on the timing marks I made for the respective plugs.

Next idea which I hope to do on Friday is to wire up the old distributor and see if it will run with that, so taking away the ignition side all together and seeing if in reality it is an injection issue not ignition/spark.

Any other ideas gratefully received.

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doh!

Didn't have 12V at the coils AND had crank shaft sensor polarity wrong :blush: (nice to see the 4 years I spent as an erlectrical apprentice haven't gone to waste :ph34r: )

Any how she runs!

Like a bag of smelly stuff but that's hardly suprising considering I only have the basics connected!

Thanks very much Gents :D

Couple of questions:

1) Where can I get a custum set of quality HT leads made and how much?

2) What do the status LED's on the ECU mean?

Thanks again,

Mick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FF or HFH will point you at a lead source.

LEDs reading from DB9

Injection.....flashes each time injectors fire

WUE...shows when Warm Up Enrichment is on

AE...Acceleration Enrichment. Comes on when you mash the go pedal.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FF or HFH will point you at a lead source.

LEDs reading from DB9

Injection.....flashes each time injectors fire

WUE...shows when Warm Up Enrichment is on

AE...Acceleration Enrichment. Comes on when you mash the go pedal.

Steve

Cheers Steve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nige posted a scanned Magnecor order forum in this thread, if you email that to Fastlane and let them know the measurement was done from the top of the spark plug to the top of the coil tower, they should be able to make a set up, that's what I did.

Can anybody point me in the right direction for this order form please?

I've re-read all 28 pages of this thread and can't find it!

Pretty desperate as I'm currently running a bodge up utilising RR leads, EDIS coil packs and the technical fix also known as tin foil :o

Cheers,

Mick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,

I've come as far in my Megajolt installation, as to test drive the Range Rover. I've got solid 10 degree advance on Edis only, and I've got it running on different MJ advance maps as well. I'm not really sure what to do with these options though (sorry about the image, you need to zoom to read it) :

post-14510-1243802814_thumb.jpg

From reading through this excellent thread, I've got as much as setting the cylinders to 8, and cranking advance to 10. What's the PIP filter about, and what should it be at ? Also, even though I set the cylinders to 8, and press "write", the RPM gauge in MJLJ shows twice the real amount of RPM's. But the advance vaules in the table view jump about at the correct values in the run-time view. Should I just ignore the gauge, or any hints to correct it ?

Regards from Sweden,

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also had a splutter when I stabbed the acceleration peddle and after a call to HFH and an e-mail he sent me these and its as crisp as a crispy thing (along with all the other work he has done..) :lol:

gallery_3150_282_34489.jpg

Mine is a mostly standard 3.9

TomG, I put yours and mine together and noticed quite a difference between your 4.6 and my 3.9 and any luck with the closed looped idle yet?

Jeff

Can you fill in the gaps please? Theres a pic missing here and id like to see what a few other AE's look like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy