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Changing the engine


geoffbeaumont

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Some of you will doubtless remember that Gemima made a shameful return home on the back of a recovery truck a few weeks back (much to the amusement of my neighbours, to whom my constant fight to fix her faster than she breaks is a running joke). Seems the timing gear disintegrated, and a new engine seems to be the most economical solution. So...

What do I need to strip off the engines in order to facilitate getting them in and out? What do I need to remove from around them? For instance, do I need to take the radiator out? That would be a pain as mine has oil coolers in the ends, and I don't want to drain the autobox if I can avoid it. Or do I have to do that anyway? What bits do I need to lay in before starting the job?

Can you tell I know exactly what I'm doing? :lol:

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Rad out and bung up the box cooler pipes.

Lot's of wobbly extensions will get to all but the top bellhousing bolts.

The top 2/4 depending on luck are best got by cranking a spare 9/16ths spanner.

Take off the circular plate from the bellhousing and use it to tie back the torque convertor.

Other than that it's much the same as a normal lump to remove.

I usually unbolt the manifolds from the heads and push them ut the way.

That's all I can think of at the mo'.

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Exhaust manifold studs if you're splitting the manifolds from the exhaust, or new manifold gaskets if you're using the existing manifolds. If it's a manual gearbox how's the clutch look? Cluth release forks wear through as well. Easier to do them while the engine is out.

Andy

www.landroverheaven.com

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Exhaust manifold studs if you're splitting the manifolds from the exhaust, or new manifold gaskets if you're using the existing manifolds. If it's a manual gearbox how's the clutch look? Cluth release forks wear through as well. Easier to do them while the engine is out.

[mutter]Just had new manifold gaskets[/mutter] Along with plenty of other bits that are going to waste since I did the head gaskets just before it died :( And whoever that was at the back saying 'told you to do the camshaft and timing gear at the same time' - Shut UP :angry:

Auto box not manual though, so no clutch. Do I need any new bolts/nuts/gaskets for mating the new engine to the gearbox?

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no - you shouldn't do.

engine out isn't too bad. i've done it a few times now..... just double check you've got everything right inbetween the engine and the gearbox. Its awfully annoying when you realise you've put the engine in got it all completely wired back up and running to find that you forgot a £1 part that sits on the flywheel. ( mutter mutter )

Enjoy.

I'm now going to test Andy's shop on the way home . . . .wonder if he has oil pump gaskets in ....

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I'm now going to test Andy's shop on the way home . . . .wonder if he has oil pump gaskets in ....

Of course I do!!!! almost couldn't see em for looking though!

You may well mutter about having to fetch the engine out again for the sake of a £1 part, but my engine hoist looks forward to its trips in the horse trailer.

NEXT!

Andy

www.landroverheaven.com

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Think I'm going to have help, fortunately... :unsure:

What seals/bolts etc. should I lay in? I'm guessing new engine mount rubbers are a good idea?

Agree with Andy & Deano, take the Viscous coupled fan off as well (if you can) they are easy to damage when the blood is up (left hand thread). Autobox will just need topping up when you put it back together, those exhaust gaskets are bl@@dy expensive for what they are, a tube of gasket assembly paste is a good investement if you can rescue them.

If you have a spare 9/16" A/F spanner (all the bell housing bolts) cut it in half, it makes the upper ones much easier to deal with from slack to removal & reverse.

Be very careful that you do not pull the torque convertor out as you remove the engine, don't get carried away and tie it back so that it can't slip off when the box is pointing down with the engine out, believe me you do not want the pain of trying to get it back onto the three splined shafts that it came off :angry:

Did I mention camshafts & followers :unsure: sorry :o

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those exhaust gaskets are bl@@dy expensive for what they are, a tube of gasket assembly paste is a good investement if you can rescue them.

Already have a couple of tubes of instant gasket around - they gaskets have only done a few hundred miles, so they're probably fine.

If you have a spare 9/16" A/F spanner (all the bell housing bolts) cut it in half, it makes the upper ones much easier to deal with from slack to removal & reverse.

I wouldn't call it spare, but knowing what a pig everything in that area of the block is to get to, I might sacrifice it anyway :(

Did I mention camshafts & followers :unsure: sorry :o

:angry:

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Already have a couple of tubes of instant gasket around - they gaskets have only done a few hundred miles, so they're probably fine.

I wouldn't call it spare, but knowing what a pig everything in that area of the block is to get to, I might sacrifice it anyway :(

:angry:

I should clarify what I said a bit, jet lag got the better of me :(

Exhaust gasket assemply paste specifically, I think it's a Hematite product, white tube with orange writing on it, pretty effective and comes apart relatively easily if needs be.

Worth investing in a spanner with an angled ring end rather than an offset head if you know what I mean, then you can use it back to front i.e. with the handle pointing forward rather as you would normally pointing aft. :blink: I know thats not very clear but I hope you get my drift.

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Worth investing in a spanner with an angled ring end rather than an offset head if you know what I mean, then you can use it back to front i.e. with the handle pointing forward rather as you would normally pointing aft. :blink: I know thats not very clear but I hope you get my drift.

Got one of each (offset and angled). Well, actually I've got an offset and one of my mates has an angled one - but it's in my toolbox and I don't reckon I'll be getting round to returning it until after I've done the engine ;)

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