Stiff clutch pedal

[Steve Warman]

Hi,

I've not long had my 90 and have noticed that the clutch pedal is quite stiff and bite point is quite high.

It also broke down at the weekend with knackered slave cylinder on the hydraulics so I've ordered a new one.

Is a stiff clutch normal or could it be due to the slave cylinder being on it's way out?

Thanks

Steve

[Matt Neale]

Hi,

I've not long had my 90 and have noticed that the clutch pedal is quite stiff and bite point is quite high.

It also broke down at the weekend with knackered slave cylinder on the hydraulics so I've ordered a new one.

Is a stiff clutch normal or could it be due to the slave cylinder being on it's way out?

Thanks

Steve

The pedal is quite stiff when compared to a "normal" car, but not overly so.

I'd suggest that you budget for a new master cylinder as well though - I can pretty much guarantee that if it'll fail within a few hundred miles of you replacing the slave if it's not been changed very recently. You'll probably find that that will sort out your bite point problems.

Matt

[Steve Warman]

Thanks Matt,

I'll add that to the list of jobs to be done

Steve

[Kev Baldwin]

Hi,

I've not long had my 90 and have noticed that the clutch pedal is quite stiff and bite point is quite high.

It also broke down at the weekend with knackered slave cylinder on the hydraulics so I've ordered a new one.

Is a stiff clutch normal or could it be due to the slave cylinder being on it's way out?

Thanks

Steve

Also depends how old your Defender is. 300Tdi pedal is easier to press due a different return spring mechanism

[Steve Warman]

Mines an f reg 90 county

[Les Henson]

Slave cylinders sometimes start to sieze up once a bit of water has got in behind the dust cover, so I wouldn't be surprised if fitting a new slave also cures the stiffness problem (oo-err)

Les.

[Steve Warman]

Thanks Les.

I have a new slave cylinder on it's way so I'll fit that and see how it goes.

Steve

[Kev Baldwin]

Mines an f reg 90 county

Get hold of a 300Tdi model clutch pedal assembly. This is the bit that includes the pedal and the bracket the pedal hangs off that bolts to the footwell. This will make your clutch pedal a helluva lighter. FWIW, I'd fit a new master cylinder while you're at it. Use a genuine parts Lucas/Girling Master Cylinder (likewise for the slave cylinder) and not an el cheapo S**tpart 'pattern' part.

[western]

if you do a search you'll find the correct part number for the above pedal assembly

[Steve Warman]

I found the part number ANR5311 and rung Dingocroft (handily just down the road from me). They confirmed the number and I've ordered it.

Now we have fun trying to fit it.

[western]

from in the cab above the pedals remove any trim panels, you'll find 6 x 10mm hex head bolts, remove these & the pedal rubber anti slip cover,disconnect the master cylinder hydraulic pipe at the fitting & remove the top cover 6 x screws IIRC, then ease it clear, then remove the pedal assembly twist to get the pedal pad through the bulkhead hole & retreive the rubber gasket, simple as that swap the clutch master cylinder over to the new pedal & adjust the push rod to the same as the removed item, then fit the new assembly to the vehicle, set the clutch pedal height from the bare ( no mats) floor plate as shown in the info below. once done refit the cover plate & enjoy the new feeling.

clutch_pedal_spring_Parts_Cat_page.pdf

Edited September 11, 2007 by western

[Les Henson]

There's a thread in the tech archive covering the removal of the clutch master and pedal assembly from a 300TDi.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13576

Les.

[Steve Warman]

Many thanks Les,

I have that topic printed out in glorious technicolour ready for the job

I thought the new pedal assembly came with the master cylinder?

If it doesn't am i right in thinking it's probably worth replacing at the same time?

Do I need any greases, special or otherwise, to fit this or a slave cylinder?

I've found a slave cylinder topic that says to put grease under and over the dust cap.

Thanks

Steve

[western]

Nope the new pedal assembly doesn't come with a new master cylinder either swap your existing one or fit a new one, new clutch master & slave will have the rubber grease already installed under the dust cover, it's only there to lube the rubber cover, best to change the master while it's easy to get at.

[Steve Warman]

Thanks Western,

Sounds like a sound plan to replace it all.

And it all gets done on friday afternoon

[western]

I reckon you'll notice the difference straight away, mines been in for nearly 12 years & I find it much better than the old type pedal assembly.

[Mo Murphy]

I did mine recently and I'd recommend doing the change, do the master and slave whilst you're at it.

Mo

[Les Henson]

There's a small amount of grease inside the dust cover, but not enough in my opinion. I pack the dust cover 2/3 full with grease to prevent bore corrosion

Les.

[Steve Warman]

Thanks Les.

I now have the parts required and I've tried disconnecting the hoses to no avail.

I'm now thinking that i might as well just replace that as well.

One thing that does bother me is that I look at the pictures on websites such as paddocks and the hose looks really quite short. Is this just the picture they use?

It seems to be a flexible hose complete with end fittings which seems to be a better option than trying to replace the current metal hose with another metal one.

Can anyone tell me whether these hoses are what I need or do I need to replace it with a metal pipe?

Thanks

Steve

[Top90]

Are the TD5 and 300TDi clutch pedal mechanisms the same?

Both my 300 ones SO much lighter (not much different from a car) but my TD5 one is much stiffer, dispite the fact I've done 57,000 miles in it.

Rich

[Steve Warman]

Rich,

I know I'm about to replace my 90 pedal with a 300tdi so it's a lot lighter, not sure about the TD5.

[western]

both the same assembly, EPC shows only the same assist spring for the 3 assembly part numbers

anr3400

anr5311

sub100320

doubt LR would change the assembly just for a new variant, any of these will retro-fit into a pre-Tdi/Td5 vehicle.

the difference in feel maybe down to the state of the hydraulics that do the actual pressure transfer.

[Top90]

Maybe my TD5 is just a stiff one then.

It was from new, but I was expecting it to become loose over time. Even on 57k and 2 years old everything still feels like new.

Thanks Ralph.

[western]

might be worth a squirt of light oil on the pedal shaft & bushes, just whip the top cover off, only 6 screws.

[Steve Warman]

Well, I've finally fitted the new clutch cylinders and pedal and all is well so far.

I had a pig of a job getting the old hose off so I had to cut it out and get a new one except the shop who made up the hose didn't supply all the bits!! They supplied the master cylinder and the hose and then decided I didn't need the connector between the 2 despite being told the old ones wouldn't some apart.

Oh well, I figured it out and put it all together.

My one piece of advice to anyone else looking to do this is if you are going to replace any of the clutch cylinders that you make sure you replace the hoses at either end as the buggers will not come off easily but they do come off the flexible section.

Steve