white90 Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Can someone give me a detailed description on setting this/checking the amount of backlash please. Ian (BBC) I hope you see this. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Tony, Step 28 onwards ..................... stolen from d90.com, it may well be still on there ................. I saved it as a pdf because the setting procedure description is excellent..............dial gauge is the proper way, but you can do it with feelers, but its not so accurate, ARB_Rear.pdf Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share Posted September 23, 2007 Thanks Ian I'll print that so stopping the pinion from turning by holding the pinion flange and rocking the CW for and aft is the way to checking back lash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Yes, but remember to fully tighten the the bearing cap bolts to the correct torque before each time you check it................ Its better if you can fab up something to lock the pinion ............. although holding it still is OK provided that you are careful Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Well Ian was correct, every bolt holding the CW onto th ARB was loose. now cleaned loctited and refitted. if the loosen again I'll have to look at other options, just lucky I found it before damage was caused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Glad you got it fixed and didn’t find any of the bolts rolling around in the housing …………. I guess the real option is to get it pegged to stop the ‘twisting’ action that does much damage to the R&P ………….. and seems to loosen off the CW bolts. On the last one I did, I found it very important to really clean and major degrease the threads (bolts and holes - I used neat thinners) before reassembly ……….. that does seem to make the loctite hold together better. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Glad its sorted Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 I used thinners/brake cleaner then an airline then allowed while before assembly and cleaned the bolts loctite270 and torqued them up Cheers James I'll rtn the bits asap Anyone know why they come loose and have any suggestions for preventing the same thing happening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Hi Tony, it doesn't seem to be uncommon on Land Rovers fitted with large mud tyres. I suppose it may be a combination of torque load and possibly a certain vibration frequency at speed on the road. Some Land Rovers suffer from the drive member bolts coming loose too. I seem to remember that the series 2a landrovers (possibly on other models too) had a lock tab plate with two holes fitted under each pair of crownwheel bolts. Once the bolts were tightened, you knocked the flats of the washer onto the bolt head flats and so locked one bolt to its neighbour via the plate. These are/were genuine parts and are probably still available. You could use these together with locktite. Regards Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 30, 2007 Author Share Posted September 30, 2007 thanks again Diff I have ordered some of the locktabs you mention. another similar subject being covered on D44 with alternate soloutions http://www.devon4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3559 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 http://www.iecltd.co.uk/bearing/products/schwash/schw.htm courtesy of Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtrans Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Hi it is worth while adding do not overtighten the crown wheel bolts, common error, once past the elastic limit the bolts stretch and effectively become loose. The tab washer was used on the series vehicles with 3/8 BSF bolts but is 'soft' and under load deforms again ending up with 'loose' bolts when rover went to 3/8 unf they added a 'hardened ' washer. Do not overtighten, use a good thread lock on clean bolts. Regards Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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