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pro comp shocks


lrfarmer

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one of the top of the rear shocks have snaped how safe would it be for me to weld it back on

post-5542-1222203439_thumb.jpg

it looks like it was only a spot (type) weld when new so if i weld it back on i can't think it will be less strong that it needs to be

but would like some other peoples ideas.

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Pro-Comp will tell you that it broke because you don't have a strap to limit articulation and they are not designed to support the weight of a wheel/axle pulling downwards. That was their response when both rear shock absorbers on my Defender lost their top eyes first time out.

You could weld it back on without any problems and it will be stronger than the original weld, however, the eyes also split if the weld doesn't give way, again, been there, done that. The metal of the eye is so thin that the metal ripped in half when I cross axled it for the first time.

Replace them with Lovell's or OME instead, Pro-Comps lasted 6 hours on my Defender, OME lasted 2 years and, so far, Lovells have lasted 8 months and still no sign of any problems.

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Tim

weld it back on and it will be fine. Same thing happened on Kris's trcuk and that has survived many challenge events since he welded it back on.

lets hope so as im towing the caravan up and doing somerset & wiltshire's mendip chalange on the 11oct but the MOT runs out first

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I considered an extra strap when the top came off the rear Koni.

WASHERS! BLOODY WASHERS !!! :P:P:P

ProComp are alright for the money - I used to sell loads of them til I got Rough Country to make some for me.

The eye problem with ProComp is IMHO ( based on years of running around offroad events looking at broken ones ) only 10% ProComps fault and 90% the muppet with the spanners!

The ProComp share of the blame is that they are using the same bush setup that was invented in about 1956 on an 86" Series ! - never ever intended to rake the sideways stretch that a longer than standard travel shock on a coiler will give. This is a big shortcoming of the ProComp eye and one I addressed with a different bush on my RC ones like the later Land Rover ones.

The 90^ blame on the fitter is that they put the washers on backwards!!

The big washers on the upper rear shock mount are ( if you look ) quite domed on the one side and flat on the other. THE DOMED SIDE MUST FIT TO THE SHOCK BUSH SIDE

If you put the flat side to the shock bush then on sideways flex the eye of the shock touches the washer and completely eliminates any rubber flexability in the mount. The weakest bit of metal is the weld on the eye so that is the bit that goes ping.....

Check your washers and turn them around if they are on wrong and this will almost entirely eliminate the broken eye problem.

David

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The deflex bushes for the top of rear dampers must be a joke, its the only polite explination I can find for them. The seem to have been made with the same design principals as clown shoes.

ordinary rubber bushes pushes into damper

IMG_1279s.jpg

Deflex bush pushed into the same damper

IMG_1282s.jpg

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WASHERS! BLOODY WASHERS !!! :P:P:P

ProComp are alright for the money - I used to sell loads of them til I got Rough Country to make some for me.

The eye problem with ProComp is IMHO ( based on years of running around offroad events looking at broken ones ) only 10% ProComps fault and 90% the muppet with the spanners!

The ProComp share of the blame is that they are using the same bush setup that was invented in about 1956 on an 86" Series ! - never ever intended to rake the sideways stretch that a longer than standard travel shock on a coiler will give. This is a big shortcoming of the ProComp eye and one I addressed with a different bush on my RC ones like the later Land Rover ones.

The 90^ blame on the fitter is that they put the washers on backwards!!

The big washers on the upper rear shock mount are ( if you look ) quite domed on the one side and flat on the other. THE DOMED SIDE MUST FIT TO THE SHOCK BUSH SIDE

If you put the flat side to the shock bush then on sideways flex the eye of the shock touches the washer and completely eliminates any rubber flexability in the mount. The weakest bit of metal is the weld on the eye so that is the bit that goes ping.....

Check your washers and turn them around if they are on wrong and this will almost entirely eliminate the broken eye problem.

David

What he said and you dont have to tighten the nut up till your jaykobs are up round ya ears as this compresses the bush and you will have no flex in the bush . If you can afford them get lowered shock mounts as this gives more travel before the is at full extention, but dont over do the nilock nut.....

Jeff.

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If you can afford them get lowered shock mounts as this gives more travel before the is at full extention, but dont over do the nilock nut.....

Jeff.

Yes but gives less travel in compression (well, you've still the same travel but maximum compression is reached earlier) so that unless you buy taller bump stops you'll rip the tops off when the damper can't compress any more !

Mo

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Yes but gives less travel in compression (well, you've still the same travel but maximum compression is reached earlier) so that unless you buy taller bump stops you'll rip the tops off when the damper can't compress any more !

Mo

True but ive found that the 35" simex will rub long before the axel reaches the extended bump stops, well they do on my RR.. :lol:

Jeff.

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Yes but gives less travel in compression (well, you've still the same travel but maximum compression is reached earlier) so that unless you buy taller bump stops you'll rip the tops off when the damper can't compress any more !

Mo

I have found that with standard length shocks, -2" top mounts and standard bump stops that the shock is fine.......

That was on a RRC.

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on me old disco i had a problem with +2" pro comps the rears pins at the bottom kept snapping off all replaced free of charge, was going to replace the mount to fit different shocks eyes each end,

but the +4 (or +5 if you measure them) they are/have been fine for over 12 months on me def 90 BUT not sure if they are for a land rover as they came with extra bits in the box, so the shape or size of bits might be different but not measured out

dave

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