orange rover Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 on my rangie the oil seal between frint diff and proshaft suddenly failed. how do i change it and do i need any special tools? thanks! orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 4 nuts and bolts to get the propshaft off, one big nut to get the drive flange off. Carefully use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out (You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK) and then drift a new seal in - make sure you get it square. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Now, find out why it failed suddenly - my money is on a blocked axle breather tube after Rusper the other week. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted January 23, 2006 Author Share Posted January 23, 2006 4 nuts and bolts to get the propshaft off, one big nut to get the drive flange off. Carefully use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out (You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK) and then drift a new seal in - make sure you get it square. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Now, find out why it failed suddenly - my money is on a blocked axle breather tube after Rusper the other week.Chris thanks, doesn't sound too difficult. two questions remain,when prying out the old seal using a screwdriver what do i need to be carefull of and what do use to drift the new seal in, a hammer? regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Be careful not to damage the casing where you use it as a fulcrum, you will find it makes it difficult to get the new seal in if you do. Fitting the new seal? Anything round that will cover the seal and allow the shaft to go through it? An old bearing outer if you have one. It can be done with a ~3/8 punch or similar. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 I use the old seal against the new seal and use a hammer on the old seal.If you get me?? I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted January 23, 2006 Author Share Posted January 23, 2006 I use the old seal against the new seal and use a hammer on the old seal.If you get me??I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house sounds like a good idea! regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 As I can't edit for some reason Before you change the oil seal.Check and lean the breather pipe.Clean the diff nose off and road test.You might not need to change the seal!! I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted January 23, 2006 Author Share Posted January 23, 2006 the breather pipe come to think of it, the back seal of the transfer case is also leaking a bit and i have joinded both breathers so maybe its an easy fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK After stuggling with a screwdriver for many seals i spent a few quid in Machine Mart IIRC and got myself a nice shiney seal puller, well worth it IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 the breather pipe come to think of it, the back seal of the transfer case is also leaking a bit and i have joinded both breathers so maybe its an easy fix Don't bank on it though !!!! I eat rat poison. mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Carefully use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out the technique I have seen is to use a big screwdriver with a hex shaft, stick the balde in and twist the shaft using a spanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Don't bank on it though !!!!I eat rat poison. mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! checked it yesterday, the breathers are fine. so no easy fix. ordered the seal, hope i can get the old one out. any mor hints that will prevent me from spending hours on the cold garage floor messing about with screw drivers would be highly appreceated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Not a method I like but.... Drill a small hole in the seal. Screw a self tapper into the hole. Use a pair of pliers on the self tapper to extract the oil seal. I eat rat poison mike i can cause trouble in an empty house Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Not a method I like but....Drill a small hole in the seal. Screw a self tapper into the hole. Use a pair of pliers on the self tapper to extract the oil seal. sounds like a good solution. why don't you like it? regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 To undo the flanges get to some one to press the brake pedal and make sure the wheels are chocked. I replaced the ny-loc nuts whilst I was there too. A large screwdriver is perfect for prising the old seals out, there will be a bit of leakage so have a rag handy don't be concerned about a bit of movement on the front flange as it is a roller bearing not a tapered one a few mm movement is perfectly ok. a new front output flange is a good idea too as they wear then ruin the seals. I put a brand new one in then changed to a disco2 prop so took it out again and stuck it on the shelf for a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 sounds like a good solution. why don't you like it?regards Because the tyre lever/screwdriver method is quicker [bonus money]and easier. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 the technique I have seen is to use a big screwdriver with a hex shaft, stick the balde in and twist the shaft using a spanner. will change the seal tomorrow. will first try the screwdriver method. do i stick it between diff housing and seal, or do i stick it through the hole in the middel of the seal and try to lever it out? regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 A nice big flat scredriver. The tip of the screwdriver under the back of the OLD seal. The screwdriver on the front of the diff and push like heck. HTH I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 thanks for all the suggestions. changed the seal, and after driving back home, no leaking oil under the car, so it seemed to have worked! the method that worked for me: take a screwdriver, put thw blade on the edge of the seal, hit it with a hammer until it makes a hole in the seal, and then lever the seal out. tokk less than five minutes. when puting in the new seal, i used the hub nut box spanner, perfekt size, big enough to leave enough room for the pinion as well as being small enough so that it fits in then recess for the seal. and i carry it in the toolbox anyways, so one special tool for two purposes. regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted February 25, 2006 Author Share Posted February 25, 2006 unfortunately the seal started leaking again after about three weeks!!! it was fine after replacing it, but the started leaking again, axle breather is fine, so what did i do wrong? regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonfire Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 unfortunately the seal started leaking again after about three weeks!!!it was fine after replacing it, but the started leaking again, axle breather is fine, so what did i do wrong? regards orange Perhaps either the part of the flange the seal runs on is worn, or there is play in the diff pinion bearings so the flange is moving about which wears the seal out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted February 25, 2006 Author Share Posted February 25, 2006 Perhaps either the part of the flange the seal runs on is worn, or there is play in the diff pinion bearings so the flange is moving about which wears the seal out? propably time to get a new pinion flange. how can i tell whether the pinion bearings are worn? i've been told that some play is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 is it possible to push the seal in an extra 2 or 3mm? If so, try it. I did this on my front diff flange seal as the flange itself had a groove worn in it. by pushing the seal in further it moved the lip out of the groove. A temporary fix that has lasted 10,000 mile........ Jas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted February 26, 2006 Author Share Posted February 26, 2006 is it possible to push the seal in an extra 2 or 3mm? If so, try it. I did this on my front diff flange seal as the flange itself had a groove worn in it. by pushing the seal in further it moved the lip out of the groove. A temporary fix that has lasted 10,000 mile........Jas might be an idea, but its snowing outside, so not the perfect conditions to crawl underneath the car. have access to a four post lift next weekend, will do it then. might as well get a new flange until then. looked into the parts manual, there are two ("4 spline 236632 " or 4 bolt FRC3002) think it would be four bolt since there are four bolts attaching the prop shaft. for the latter STC3722 is given as a alternate, but that is three times the price. which one should i get? its a 1988 range rover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted March 5, 2006 Author Share Posted March 5, 2006 might be an idea, but its snowing outside, so not the perfect conditions to crawl underneath the car. have access to a four post lift next weekend, will do it then. might as well get a new flange until then. looked into the parts manual, there are two ("4 spline 236632 " or 4 bolt FRC3002) think it would be four bolt since there are four bolts attaching the prop shaft. for the latter STC3722 is given as a alternate, but that is three times the price. which one should i get? its a 1988 range rover. changed the seal once again, this time using stc3722 which is a complete kit including new seal and flange. the flange and seal are different though, seems like the later design. the flange is longer than the original replacing the distance piece, as well as round rather then the original four arm design. on the drive home the seal was fine, hope it stays that way. in case it doesn't, then it must be the bearing. can that be changed in situ or does the diff have to come out? regards orange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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