tedsmart Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Hello all, First of all happy new year! I have a annoyance with the hand brake lever, it springs back up when I disengage it and the handbrake light comes on, pushing it down doesn't seem to cure it, today I took off the handbrake drum to clean inside, but it was pretty clean to start, everything was in place, so now I'm thinking is it the cable has it stretched or has the spring on the cable inside the drum become too compressed so not pulling back on the cable? Has anyone else come across this and how did they sort out the problem? Any info would be great Cheers ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 is the hand brake coming on and off as it should as when mine dos that the mecanisam jams on have to give it a tap with the hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 I had this last year (first time saying that), and it is the hand brake cable getting stuck when the plastic linning sheath becomes knackered. Change it now, as it will just get stuck on fully soon, and then your in the poo. Carry a hack saw with you and when it happens cut cable next to drum and it will release. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Mine did that for a while, a new cable fixed it once it became a PITA having to release the brake from under the car - especially on wet days. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Watch out for where the clasp holds through the seat box (check from underneath with a torch, or take the driver's seat panel out) - if it has slipped the clasp, the lever will push the cable back, instead of into the sheath. Simple enough to fix or jerry-rig if not. Here's hoping - simpler/cheaper than a new cable In below, where cable (2) meets clip (19). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks very much everyone, The cable does release but just springs back up enough to operate the switch, to get it to fully let go I have to pull the gater up and hold handbrake down & put my finger on the cable which is bent up (thus making the cable spring up!) and press down so cable goes into the sheath! Not a good operation to do if being followed by the police!! The wife also refuses to do this can't think why, I mean the grease/oil comes off after a while. as long as you don't forget and start picking your nose!! ( not a good look) Cheers ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Hi decided to get a new cable STC 1530 is the part number I'm looking at but want to make sure its the right part (as getting it sent from UK) The defender is a 110 300Tdi 1996 vin TA989340 Cheers ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I have this on my 200 TDi D90 at the moment, I have changed the cable but it is still the same so I guess its a issue within the drum, unless as Lansalot says the cable is moving back, but I think that bit is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 STC1530 is the cable you need,that goes into the backplate of the brake, Item 2 on the lower picture not the cable with a forkend on both ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I have this on my 200 TDi D90 at the moment, I have changed the cable but it is still the same so I guess its a issue within the drum, unless as Lansalot says the cable is moving back, but I think that bit is ok. on yours it's most probably caused by the expander sticking, which means a drum remove, expander clean up & very lightly grease with copaslip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks Western, it looks cold out there today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks Western, it looks cold out there today yep, not a job for a cold day, the expander is the silver lump on the right as you lok at the transmission brake inards. or you could have a late xmas pressie & buy a x-brake x-brake fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I have been looking at Simons X-Brakes for ages now, but I am just getting a roll cage which is a little more important I think, will probably get one one by the end of the year. Does the expander come off to clean it, are there any parts to come out of it? Thanks for the diagram. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 the expander body can stay attached, but when the shoes are moved away, the rollers & slides might drop out the bottom, you'll have to push the top ones out. I've still got my old expander, I'll fetch it from the garage & take a photo of all it's parts laid out in order so you can see which bit fits where. Ok just done these. the operating sleeve has a areas for the roller to move on & the body has grooves the rollers run in, the slders have a operating area that the roller moves along so the sliders can expand out to apply the brake shoes to the drum, note the slider working area is angled & has to be fitted the correct way otherwise it won't work correctly & you'll notice the working areas get fairly well worn, this expander is nearly 19 years old. sometimes the rollers 'pick up' on the groove sides & then can't run along the groove & jam. hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Bl%dy Hell Ralph thanks for this, I will try to get on it tomorrow and give it a go, really appreciate the assistance. One for Tech Archive I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 it's been off the 110 for a while & as I still knew where it was [hiding in the garage, exactly where i left it] just under a hour has got you pictures & info that'll be of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 it's been off the 110 for a while & as I still knew where it was [hiding in the garage, exactly where i left it] just under a hour has got you pictures & info that'll be of use. Sure has now the cold bit Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Quick question, I've got a 1987 110 with push rod type fitting on the expander. It's been sticking. A stripdown reveals the expander is worn, the pushrods are tired, the cable is sticking and the shoe adjuster cams are worn. Somewhere in the garage I've got a complete backplate with shoes, drum and cable, from a later 300TDi Defender. Question is, will this backplate and cable be a straight swap for my original setup? (Will the cable end fit the handbrake lever and is the prop bolt pattern the same) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Yes it should swap over fine, but I wouldn't bother. Having had my X-Brake for many years now I wouldn't even spit on the standard one to fix it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks for that Simon. All comes down to cost - would love to fit an X brake but can't justify spending £200+ on one. I met Si from X-Eng a few years ago. He was having trouble with a trailer wheel bearing in Scotch Corner services. A thoroughly decent chap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks for that Simon. All comes down to cost - would love to fit an X brake but can't justify spending £200+ on one. I met Si from X-Eng a few years ago. He was having trouble with a trailer wheel bearing in Scotch Corner services. A thoroughly decent chap. When are you calling over to see me and our project ?????? Yeo can look at my X-Brake at the same time..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abdelkarim Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Hi I need 1984 Land Rover hand brake kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 You could service yours & get it working, or buy a new cable, brake shoes, expander & adjuster, it's not a hard job to strip, clean & fit new or refurbished parts, there is no 'Kit' to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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