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longer ECU cable


tillmannz

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Hello!

Somewhere i looked on internet (but i don't remember where) a cable ,whereby can take the ECU(what is under the passenger seat for my Range)another trouble free place.this is a extension wire of the ECU.

Please help me where find this cable,who make it is?

Regard:Zoltan

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I remember Porny, the td5 ecu guru from here, saying they can cause some problems due to changing the resistance on some sensitive circuits....

His suggestion, for a Defender, was to move it onto the bulkhead behind the centre seat / cubby box.

If you open the hatch you will see that the cables route from under the centre over to the seat box - so they are plenty long enough.

You'll need to drill two 60 mm holes and a 32 mm one (I think!) and you can then re-use the grommets. The 60mm is for the ECU block connector and the 32mm is for the fuse box.

I'm going to be doing this soon.

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Dastek make one for the Td5 ECU, a quick search on the internet should find it (Td5 extension loom). I was interested myself (put it up under the headlining on the Defender for example - really out of harms way while wading), but I nearly died when I saw the price - about £300 from memory - for a couple of metres of cable. I appreciate it's probably more complicated than that, but even so... Maybe they also sell a Michael extraction tool, or a urine removal tool.

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It's wires - I can't see how cutting & joining them to extend the loom would affect it unless you're a total ham-fisted dolt (which could be aggravated if they have used coaxial shielded cable for sensors). Solder & heat-shrink, cut & join one wire at a time so you don't lose track. If there are co-ax cables that need joining, you need a bit more sparky Fu.

V8 ECU's can be moved high enough without modification, up behind the dashboard is fine.

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How deep are you expecting to submerge it?

I moved the ECU on mine (1987 RRC 3.5) from under the drivers seat (RHD) to where the aircon evaporatour used to live in the left hand side of the dash. Some subtle cutting of the dash was required, but once assembled its not visible. It depends how deep you plan on going and how long your going to stay there as to whether its worth going any higher. most of the water inside mine tends to be from a pressure washer which its now well protected from.

Due to raised front damper turrets I also had to move the Air flow meter and extended the loom for it to move further towards the front left corner. Thiswas done by cutting one wire at a time and soldering in lengths of wire before heat shrinking. The engine runs well enough having done this and any problems with the enigne would appear to be internal wear related rather than to do with the EFI.

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I screwed mine to the top of the center console armrest, I know it does`nt sound much higher but it never got wet and I did some serious wading in fords and floods and it never once let me down. I had the water well over the bonnet on many occasions.

Tim

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Here is the thread I quoted from....

I seem to remember being told by a guy who made wiring looms for tornado's that each solder joint made a very small drop in the voltage ... I'm not sure how sensitive the ECU is?

Anyone able to confirm the hole sizes in the seat box?

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I seem to remember being told by a guy who made wiring looms for tornado's that each solder joint made a very small drop in the voltage ... I'm not sure how sensitive the ECU is?

Aircraft electronics and lucas are poles apart. Cutting and splicing a lucas flapper ecu cable will not make it any worse than it was when it left the factory.

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How deep are you expecting to submerge it?

^^^ This ^^^

The stock EFI wiring loom is plenty long enough for a truck still running a distributor, the ignition will spit the dummy way before your nipples get wet.

Also, a good solder joint will introduce half of naff all drop in the scheme of things - and Lucas EFI is about as far removed from a Tornado fighter as your toaster is. In fact your toaster probably has more processing power these days.

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