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D2 buying advice


muddy

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Evenin all, having searched the forum i have come up with the following list of stuff to check for when buying a base model td5 disco auto:

Check service history for oilpump bolt

Check boot floor for rust

Check chassis for rust

Usual landy stuff (clunky drivetrain etc)

Check for rust around top of windscreen

Leaky sunroofs/blocked draintubes and passenger footwell

Service history would be nice but not so much of a biggy?

Check for waterloss/boiling up.

Make sure all the electrics work.

High low lever/difflock is free to move

Finaly oil in the injector loom, how do you check this (presumably by pulling the plug out but does this throw the ecu into a wobbler?) what does the plug look like? what does the ecu look like, is it behind the battery or under the passenger seat?

The one i am looking at has 111thou and is an auto V reg, not sure what spec it is but has cloth seats, 16"alloys and electric mirrors. Its epsom green i think and the bodywork appears to be mint from the pics.Any idea on what trim level this makes it?

Finaly is 4k too much in the current climate?

Cheers, Will.

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Think I can answer some of your questions but not all of them.

111k is nothing for a TD5 and if it is an auto then the drive train should be in good nick. I would also check the seal on the back door, mine leaks ever since the wind caught the back door and bent it back a bit. I removed the hinges and put them in a press to straighten them but its always leaked since. The back door is very big and the hinges are ally so they are easy to bend. I find the auto drinks the diesel (20+ MPG) but I do carry about 3/4 of a ton of equipment. I had the ECU remapped by Gary at TD5 and can tell you its a different car ever since. Pulls like a train and a small improvement in MPG, 0-60 is way better and all the flat spots have gone.

I had the bolt drop off the oil pump and had to replace all the shells & the Turbo but I was lucky. I was at a clients a few weeks ago and he has a TD5 Disco with 280+K on it and its running very well. Apart from a few bushes, shocks and a new Turbo it had no other work done on it apart from the normal services.

I change my oil every 6/7k and the rotary filter every 3k, I also use the best oil I can afford (fully synthetic).

You asked if 4k was a good price to pay, I don't know about UK prices but it all depends on the age, 4k is good for a 2004 but would not be for a 1999.

Has the car done any off road work or was it only used for the school run. I bought mine and it had never been off road or pulled a trailer, but I know a guy who just sold a 2001 TD5 Disco and it has spent about 4 years pulling a 3 ton digger for most of its miles.

I hope some of the above helps.

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Very helpful thanks, Its not actually me thats buying it but i'm the mate who knows about cars when he goes to look at it :rolleyes:

It looks mint bodywork wise and only has a swan neck towbar so i *think* and offroad/heavy towing is unlikley.

I did have a mate with the same drivetrain setup and his certainly drank fuel!

Cheers, Will.

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Traction control stuff is worth checking, especially if no centre diff lock.

I believe you can have the 3 warning lights reset by leaving the battery off overnight (I tried about an hour and it didn't work, or it may have been faulted again straight away). So check the clock is reading the right time and that the radio doesn't need the code putting in.

If it needs both/either then there is a good chance the ETC/ABS is playing up and they are trying to hide it.

Next check would be to find some gravel ground and try to wheel spin a wheel to see the ETC/ABS lights come on indicating they haven't covered over the bulbs or pulled them out of the dash :)

Make sure the Emergency Key Access code (EKA) is available as you may need that in the future, but you can get it from a dealer.

Check the number of full key fobs with it, i.e. key plus plipper, as these will set you back £150 or so .

They are about the only D2 specifics I can think of, off hand. All the rest of the normal checks apply.

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