Rick the Spud Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Hi all After a spell of 4x4ing at Slindon and getting stuck in a massive puddle, the engine started misfiring so i switched off. after getting pulled out, started up again, the engine cleared the water in the exhaust, but it still misfired. checked the airbox, no sign of mud or water, and the exhaust seems to be running clear, if a little smoky. someone said something about a drain plug, which i had forgotten about, and said it might have got water in the timing and jumped a tooth. any ideas? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 if it locked up i would say maybe a bent con rod or even blown the head gasket , i had a maestro van with a perkins 2l prima engine do this and it done the head gasket on 1;3;4 but didnt do any other damage guess i was lucky hope this helps chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Have you raised the fuel tank breathers and blocked the filler vent ? If not you may well have water in the fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 it runs, but it's gutless, and smokes like a pig! hadn't thought about the fuel! someone else said about the timing too - not sure now, where do i start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alford Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 It could be 101 things best thing is find a mate who knows what he's talking about and what to look for and check then you should be fine, don't want to go replacing stuff if there's nothing wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 now it won't even start! drained the fuel filter, fuel looks good, pumped loads of fresh fuel through... still won't go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Crack off the injectors, check you are getting fuel through to them. Check timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 crack of the injectors one at a time or all the same time? - and then do i crank it over to see if fuel coming through? how do i check timing without taking the front of the car off?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 not sure where the fuel breather are - but found a fuel sediment thing which i cleaned out. one of the pipes going into the lift pump looked a bit iffy so i replaced it with some clear hose, now i can see that as soon as i stop pumping, the fuel drains slowly back. i managed to get fuel pouring out the bleed valve on the filter, the return on the injector pump, and when cranking - spirting out the injectors. fuel still seems to drain back, but it might have always done that! still won't start. ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 defo not fuel! any way to check the timing without stripping the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 anyone know the answer to - if i tied a rope round the front and dragged it round the field trying to bump start it, is it likely to clear something that might be blocked, or just knacker it up even more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 If the injector pump was retarded a tooth, then it would start if the engine was already warm, but not from cold. It would start on a tow, but would emit thick grey smoke from the exhaust, which would reduce a fair bit as the engine warmed up. The engine would remain gutless and need a lot of acceleration to get it to move. A bent conrod would do a very similar thing Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 cheers for the info. so that's still a timing job then? any easy way of doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I'm not sure how water would affect the timing - might just be a coincidence. You can set the crank on it's timing mark through the wading plug hole, then remove the round cover opposite the Injector pump sprocket and see if a 9mm drill bit will slot into the locating hole through the sprocket. The crank turns twice for every one rotation of the cam and injector pump sprockets, so you may have turn the crank another revolution before they line up. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I'm not sure how water would affect the timing Maybe not, but I can see how a timing case full of Slindon mud/sand/flint chippings would do damage to the rubber band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Maybe not, but I can see how a timing case full of Slindon mud/sand/flint chippings would do damage to the rubber band. good call! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 yay! did the timing yesterday - and she started on the button! pig of a job getting all the pulleys off, mainly bottom pulley, crankcase off, belt off, clean mud out of everywhere, line up timing marks on crank and cam pulleys, put 9.5mm drill bit in injector pulley at about 11 o'clock, new belt on, new tensioner on, test start, re tension, put it all back together. also junked the aircon rad while we were there - stopped me cleaning out the front of the normal rad, and the aircon never worked anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 wading plug in next time ey?? glad its all better tho! jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco tony Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 I have put a breather in my timing case cover instead of a wading plug. No need to remove or remember to put it in. I put a bit of a u-bend on it so any oil will show in the bend. I'm prepared to be told why I shouldn't have done this as soon as a grown up reads this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 yeah - wading plug is in! tony - my only thing is you still may have to unscrew it to drain it, but like you say, you should be able to see any stuff in the bend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco tony Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 yeah - wading plug is in!tony - my only thing is you still may have to unscrew it to drain it, but like you say, you should be able to see any stuff in the bend! No, thats the point, no screwing as its a "push fit" connector like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Almost certain that its a bent conrod sorry (hope im wrong) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick the Spud Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 who me? mine's up and running - did you not see my other post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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