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Is there an exhaustive online page with shock absorber lengths similar to the jbarge spring info page?

I need to look into this as I've now got my 110 the way I want it to be except for the rear shocks. I've got HD springs on the front (same as factory 110HD suspension - same part no as standard 90 rear springs) with standard shocks and the front end is fine, and I've now got a 1" lift (Mill Services lifters I had kicking around) on the rear and it is fine when there is a bit of a load in or driving steadily, but when empty and/or in a hurry over rough ground the shocks are a bit inclined to top out if a wheel drops down into a hole.

What I therefore need is a shock with the same closed length as a standard 110 rear, but an inch or two extra on the fully extended length. I can't just fit drop shocker mounts as that will probably mean the shocks bottom out on full compression, I've just sorted that problem out on the front and it is painful when it happens!

Is there a "shocker bible" anywhere with open/closed lengths for all the different types?

Does anybody have a measurement for how the factory 110 rear shocks compare to the factory 130 shocks which are different? Are the 130 versions longer? Something with stiffer rebound damping might even do the trick. It isn't a major problem but just the last piece in the jigsaw and I want to get it just the way I want it :)

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don't know the extended/retracted lengths

110 & 130 dampers are ----

levelled either rtc4638 or stc 291

non levelled rtc4639 or stc 292

130 rear HD 3500KG stc293

hth :D

got my old OME rears in the garage, can get the measurements from them for you

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Yes that is some of the info, ta, not sure if that means all the front and rear shocks are actually the same compressed and extended lengths?

In any case a worthy link for the tech archive I think (unless its already in there but I did look and didn't find one)

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Is there an exhaustive online page with shock absorber lengths similar to the jbarge spring info page?

I need to look into this as I've now got my 110 the way I want it to be except for the rear shocks. I've got HD springs on the front (same as factory 110HD suspension - same part no as standard 90 rear springs) with standard shocks and the front end is fine, and I've now got a 1" lift (Mill Services lifters I had kicking around) on the rear and it is fine when there is a bit of a load in or driving steadily, but when empty and/or in a hurry over rough ground the shocks are a bit inclined to top out if a wheel drops down into a hole.

What I therefore need is a shock with the same closed length as a standard 110 rear, but an inch or two extra on the fully extended length. I can't just fit drop shocker mounts as that will probably mean the shocks bottom out on full compression, I've just sorted that problem out on the front and it is painful when it happens!

Is there a "shocker bible" anywhere with open/closed lengths for all the different types?

Does anybody have a measurement for how the factory 110 rear shocks compare to the factory 130 shocks which are different? Are the 130 versions longer? Something with stiffer rebound damping might even do the trick. It isn't a major problem but just the last piece in the jigsaw and I want to get it just the way I want it :)

You say 'I can't just fit drop shocker mounts as that will probably mean the shocks bottom out on full compression', I know that when I fitted 2" drop rear mounts to my RRC complete with Police Spec Rear springs it transformed it's manners both on & off road (with standard front end), I just fitted some decent Poly-Prop Bump Stops to the Body (also extended rear brake hose and dislocation cones) and all was well. Without springs fitted, when the Shocks were at full compression the Bump Stops were compressed by about Half an inch.

I know a RRC is a different kettle of fish compared to a 110 but I can't imagine it being that different.

Now the Rangie is off the road I intend to swap the drop mounts and brake hose to my 130 to gain a bit of extra droop at the back, I may fit extended bump stops just to give a bit more protection when running at the 3500Kg limit.

Colin.

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Thing is I don't really want to fit higher bump stops because that defeats half the object of having lifted suspension which is to give me more leeway before hitting the bump stops if I hit something I didn't see coming.

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Thing is I don't really want to fit higher bump stops because that defeats half the object of having lifted suspension which is to give me more leeway before hitting the bump stops if I hit something I didn't see coming.

I appreciate that, I wasn't advocating extended bump stops for you (only for my 130 as insurance for when it's well laden). After fitting the lower shock mounts with the Police Springs (about an extra 1" ride height) I never had any issues with bump stops. I just used Poly Bump Stops because they seemed to be a bit more cushioning than the hard rubber ones.

I think the extra droop the lower shock mounts gave allowed the wheel to drop into any potholes and then the Shocks (std spec) along with the now fully extended spring cushioned the shock better (compared to a partially compressed spring at fully extension).

I was just saying it worked for me with a RRC and hoping it will have the same effect with my 130 when I get around to swapping bits over.

Colin.

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You need more than 1/2" bump stop compression to be safe, in actual fact you need at least 20-25mm.

I'm speaking from experience here, having killed two sets of long travel Koni's on the front end. (at least i could rebuild them) You'd be amazed at how much the bump stops compress under load.

Stephen, the easiest route for the $ is the Pro comps (I've never used them)

Koni have a Raid shock, pt. # 90-5401 that is 607mm open, 391mm closed that's a bolt in. just don't ask the price.....

The Koni and Bilstein importers here do specials, generally GU Patrol Heavy Track rears and modify them to pin and eye to fit Land Rover rears. You can also use a pin to eye converter at the bottom to use an eye/eye damper, just remember that a lot of top eyes aren't big enough diameter and will break the eye off the shaft thanks to the dodgy top angle of the mount. Les Richmond Automotive here used to market a 'kicker' (taper shim) that corrected the top bracket angle.

I currently run Monroe MQ Patrol rears (610mm open, 358mm closed) which are totally safe in the OE mounts and use retained springs.

I've swapped to a much heavier fluid (Silkolene 15wt pro RSF fluid, 100psi nitrogen pressure) but the valving is still pretty dodgy, or cushy, depending on your POV with the 130 twin spring setup. No where near enough low speed rebound, although they comply and control OK at higher shaft speeds.

With 10" stroke shocks front and rear, 17" front springs and retained rear springs the articulation is transformed off road. The little bit of extra droop at the rear is sorely needed, and retaining the rear springs without going over the top on rear damper travel forces the front end to work better when the rear is at maximum travel making the beast more balanced off road.

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Hope this is not a hijack - I think my requirements are similar and wondered if you knew anything about the Koni 82 Series

8240-1181SPX

8240-1190SPX

I can't find any length / travel / valving info anywhere :angry:

I'm wondering how these compare to the Bilstein BE5-6540 / BE5-6529?

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Hope this is not a hijack - I think my requirements are similar and wondered if you knew anything about the Koni 82 Series

8240-1181SPX

8240-1190SPX

I can't find any length / travel / valving info anywhere :angry:

I'm wondering how these compare to the Bilstein BE5-6540 / BE5-6529?

I don't think I have any info on the newer Land Rover specific Heavy Tracks, I only have specs on the older versions and the older 84 series (now discontinued) were only the same open/closed lengths as OE.

Generally, for any given application a twin tube Koni will have slightly better open/closed lengths than either their 30 Series mono tubes or Billies, although sometimes there isn't much in it.

There are long travel versions of Bilstein's B46-0243 and B46-0253 but you need new shock mounts too as these are 100mm longer for 50mm extra travel. They are specials made for one of the Australian Land Rover specialists that can also be ordered through the importer here. IMO the valving of the 0253 isn't suitable for a 110 and definitely not a 130 rear.

If you want longer Koni's for the front of a Defender the easiest alternative is an 82-2385. This is the front damper for a L/Cruiser 80/100 Series. The bottom pin needs to be shortened slightly and the towers raised slightly but this will max out the front travel within the restrictions of the front radius arms. You end up with a bit over 1.5" more damper stroke.

More can be eeked out by modifying the adjuster ears inside the shock to get a genuine 10" of stroke, but you lose the external rebound adjustment. These have quite a bit more travel than the equivalent Bilstein which has barely any more travel than a Rover damper. An OME N73 has a touch more stroke again.

Here, as I said above, we generally modify Patrol rears by cutting off the bottom eye and welding on a pin or converting the land Rover mount to an eye mount.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 8 years later...

It seems that some of the info on this topic is going to be unavailable in the near future. The site mentioned in post 3 directs you to a page with details on how to retreive it. Maybe someone with more abilities than me is able to make it available again ?

Edited by AV8R
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