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200 tdi won't switch off


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I have just replaced the 2.5td 19J in my 1988 90 with a 200tdi and when the ignition is turned off it carries on running. Sure enough when the pump stop solenoid wire is removed it stops. When the engine is running with the ignition off the solenoid is still getting 2.2 volts to it, also if the alternator is disconnected it will turn off ok from the ign key (0 volts at solenoid). I have checked earths and connections and all appear to be ok. Previously this trouble did not occur with the 19J unit (perhaps the solenoid needed more than 2.2v to stay on?). I am thinking that there must be some sort of back feed through the charging light, I also notice that according to a haynes wiring diagram for 91-on defenders there is a diode in the charging light circuit (external from alternator) and yet this does not appear on the earlier diagram for the 90's. Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

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the engine loom for the TD & 200Tdi in a 90/110/defender is common, no need to change any part of it, I have a retro-fit 200Tdi & the old TD loom was re-used on the Tdi,

it's not a diode but a resistor my 110 has it as well & it's not caused me any problems,

When the engine is running with the ignition off the solenoid is still getting 2.2 volts to it,

that shouldn't happen, check the wiring is correct at the large multiplug the engine loom connects too. sounds like you have a cross connected wire somewhere

what's with the photo of the cow ?????

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Thanks for your comments, I have checked the connections on the plug and for shorts, nothing as yet but will post it when i find it.

That is no ordinary cow, she is a L.R specialist particularly in the removing of Defender rubber wheelarches (she has yet to put one back on though!).

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Thanks for your comments, I have checked the connections on the plug and for shorts, nothing as yet but will post it when i find it.

That is no ordinary cow, she is a L.R specialist particularly in the removing of Defender rubber wheelarches (she has yet to put one back on though!).

:lol: silly old moo, best teach her how to do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I have now sorted the problem. I found the resistor in the ignition light wiring (which looks like a special fuse in a fuse holder) and sure enough with that removed it turns off ok. I have now put a diode in the ignition light feed from the alternator as it has in my Haynes wiring diagram for the 1991-on defenders and all is now fine. I can only assume there is a back feed from the ignition light which was giving the 2v to the solenoid. Any comments?

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Just to clarify I have left the resistor in and added a diode in the charge light wire so is wired up as in the manual for the later Defenders.

It is possible that I am just correcting it for another fault that i have not found yet. Lets see how it goes!

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Ok I have now sorted the problem. I found the resistor in the ignition light wiring (which looks like a special fuse in a fuse holder) and sure enough with that removed it turns off ok. I have now put a diode in the ignition light feed from the alternator as it has in my Haynes wiring diagram for the 1991-on defenders and all is now fine. I can only assume there is a back feed from the ignition light which was giving the 2v to the solenoid. Any comments?

does anyone have a photo of the resistor?

I think mine might be faulty, but I can't even find it! All I can find is one of those push and twist inline fuse holders with a 30 amp glass fuse in it! I'm wandering if the guy befor me has changed the resistor for a fuse? Maybe that's why my alternator is only charging at 13.8 volts too? Any ideas?

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does anyone have a photo of the resistor?

I think mine might be faulty, but I can't even find it! All I can find is one of those push and twist inline fuse holders with a 30 amp glass fuse in it! I'm wandering if the guy befor me has changed the resistor for a fuse? Maybe that's why my alternator is only charging at 13.8 volts too? Any ideas?

that could be it , got a old one on my shelf here, in a black twist fuse holder with a glass fuse type insert which has a thick wriggly wire inside it & marked on the end caps with 2A

willing to post this one I have if you want it

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that could be it , got a old one on my shelf here, in a black twist fuse holder with a glass fuse type insert which has a thick wriggly wire inside it & marked on the end caps with 2A

willing to post this one I have if you want it

thanks western, email sent

CURLY

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what is the point in the diode that is fitted inline in my charge warning light circuit on my 2.5 td?

do i need it? cos it doesn't show on any of my wiring diagrams?

CURLY

It's to stop the fuel solenoid staying open when the ignition goes off, has been covered on here recently, IIRC.

In fact, see OP ^

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  • 3 years later...
I have just replaced the 2.5td 19J in my 1988 90 with a 200tdi and when the ignition is turned off it carries on running. Sure enough when the pump stop solenoid wire is removed it stops. When the engine is running with the ignition off the solenoid is still getting 2.2 volts to it, also if the alternator is disconnected it will turn off ok from the ign key (0 volts at solenoid). I have checked earths and connections and all appear to be ok. Previously this trouble did not occur with the 19J unit (perhaps the solenoid needed more than 2.2v to stay on?). I am thinking that there must be some sort of back feed through the charging light, I also notice that according to a haynes wiring diagram for 91-on defenders there is a diode in the charging light circuit (external from alternator) and yet this does not appear on the earlier diagram for the 90's. Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ok I have now sorted the problem. I found the resistor in the ignition light wiring (which looks like a special fuse in a fuse holder) and sure enough with that removed it turns off ok. I have now put a diode in the ignition light feed from the alternator as it has in my Haynes wiring diagram for the 1991-on defenders and all is now fine. I can only assume there is a back feed from the ignition light which was giving the 2v to the solenoid. Any comments?
got the resistor in my 110 TD loom & the 200Tdi soleniod switches off no problem.
2 part numbers in my 110 1987 on parts book, it shows

C46082 for upto chassis JA912943 all derivates

PRC9606 from JA912944

can't find them on LRSeries website.

This is exactly the fault i am having, even down to the volts at the solenoid. But my problem is that i have the instrument panel out and the steering wheel out of the way and i just cannot see for love nor money a black fuse holder that would contain a resistor or diode.

I just have a white (with black tracer) wire coming from the ignition switch, which then heads into a clump of white wires and from there goes god knows where?

I have a few questions, if anyone can shed some light i'd be very grateful, and ill use the info to write up a 'how to' with pics.

1/ Is this resistor/fuse holder, along the length of the white with black tracer wire ?

2/ If yes to the above, can anybody pinpoint its usual location?

3/ If no to question 1, which colour wire is the resistor attached to?

4/ If by a strange occurance my 1989 90, does not have one of these in line resistors, can i just buy one and fit one?

Thanks in advance.

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in my loom it sits to left of steering column, under the raised part of the dash tray/vent trim panel, IIRC it was inside a black sleeve within the loom, it should be in every dash/bulkhead loom as it for the red battery/charge light.

according to the wiring diagram I am looking at, it should have a plain white wire at one end & a brown/yellow trace wire at the other end [alterntor charge connection to battery/charge light]

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This resistor. Is there anything special about it. I have been Googling the part numbers that Western quoted for the originals but i cant find any info on them and nobody stocks them. If i had some information on the resistors rating then i could probably find an equivalent somewhere. Alternatively, i could fit a diode like that other chap did, but again i'd need some advice on what rating/type it would need to be.

If anyone could advise i'd be very grateful.

Thanks.

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