LT230 Transfer Box rebuild (part 1)

[Marco]

OK here we go...

I've stripped the LT230 transfer box. It turned out to be an easy job. The only 'special tools' needed are a bearing puller (to remove the bearings from the differential, input gear and output shafts), some good circlip pliers and a steel drift.

Most of the work is actually cleaning all the bits and pieces. I've used paraffin for all gears and steel bits (to prevent them to start rusting). For the casing I've also used the power washer (water & soap) inside + outside. OK the finish is not that great, not as neat as the "reconditioned box" I did buy off the shelf... buy hey, I've only started this recon job because that shiny box is leaking through the intermediate shaft like hell!

On the left the intermediate gears, bearings and shaft. In front the selector shaft for high/low gears. In the center the rear output shaft + speedo gear. Rear output shaft bearing can be removed with the same two legged puller as used for the other bearings. At the right the complete differential with high/low gears and selector. Take care not to mix up the parts. So keep all together in the same sequence. Removing the bearings turned out to be very easy with the basic two legged puller. For tapping out the outer races I did use a steel drift (5mm) and hammer, be careful not to damage the aluminum casing.

Above the only bit not yet dismantled. The front output shaft housing. Removing the flange (lock nut) turned out to be one of the most difficult jobs.

I will start on this one soon...

The serial number of my 1992 LT230 suffix E transfer box. After cleaning it I discovered the engraved text "P3 | 125 | L" (if I do read it correctly). Not sure why it's there, maybe a previous recon job has been carried out on this particular unit? Looking at the input gear teeth (almost gone) and main shaft of the LT77 I doubt somebody has touched it before but maybe they did forget to check that "weak spot"...

I'm now in the process of ordering parts.

- OEM bearings

- some shims

- new bearing lock-nut

- new casing bolts (cheap so why use the rusted ones..)

- gaskets & seals

After finishing I will post the full list of bits used for this reconditioning job.

For instructions I'm using the LT230T Transfer Gearbox Overhaul Manual hosted here on my Landroverweb.com website.

The main problems I'm facing:

Bearing preload differential bearings and preload of the intermediate gear bearings. I do not have the special tools.

You can buy several LT230 units off the shelf for the price of those special tools! So getting them myself is a no go.... I will have to make a plan...

If anybody does have some info on the engraved text that would be great.

Cheers

Marco

[western]

The 22d is the serial number NOT part number [your text amended accordinly] the P3 number could be a previous rebuild or a ident of the person who built it orginally.

Once you have completed the rebuild, I'll get the thread transffered to the Tech Archive

more info on the meaning of the 22D serial number here on Ashcroft Transmission website

[MonLand]

OK here we go...

I've stripped the LT230 transfer box. It turned out to be an easy job. The only 'special tools' needed are a bearing puller (to remove the bearings from the differential, input gear and output shafts), some good circlip pliers and a steel drift.

Thanks for the write-up Marco, it's just great and timely for me! I'm in a similar state, where are you planning to order replacement parts?

So far I am at crush sleeve, all bearings (just because that's the right time), gaskets (RTV?) and low/high range selector and ring (not sure what happened there, got that T-case without explanation).

Thx,

MonLand

[tombardier]

Good stuff.

I've entirely dismantled a 25/C box I got for £10.50 recently. It's in great condition really apart from the fact that it's been sat in a barn gathering cobwebs for the last 15 years. If it wasn't for the dirt that had managed to get in to the casing, it wouldn't need refurbishing at all, but oh well. I'm currently trying to clean the casing, and what a pain of a job that is. The washer/de-greaser attachment for my air compressor just isn't cutting it, but I'll get there.

I was wondering whether you'd actually come up with a plan w/ regards to the bearing pre-load, and torqueing up that annoying stake nut on the differential shaft. I had to drift that nut around to get it off. I can't spend the £80 on the special socket in order to torque it up, so, I need 'a plan' too

[martinspragg]

Ok great, so how did you reomove the staked nut on the diff. The manual says you need the LR special tool. I figured a large adjustable would work but I haven't found one large enough. I may build my own special tool but if there is a secret let me know.

[Marco]

Ok great, so how did you reomove the staked nut on the diff. The manual says you need the LR special tool. I figured a large adjustable would work but I haven't found one large enough. I may build my own special tool but if there is a secret let me know.

Not sure which nut you want to undo...

I'm actually still in the process of rebuilding the box. After an opportunistic start last year the project did grind to a halt... Winter time & way busy with work. I just started to put back some parts yesterday as I do want to finish the box this Month.

Cheers

Marco

[martinspragg]

Not sure which nut you want to undo...

I'm actually still in the process of rebuilding the box. After an opportunistic start last year the project did grind to a halt... Winter time & way busy with work. I just started to put back some parts yesterday as I do want to finish the box this Month.

Cheers

Marco

The nut is the large one on the rear end of the centre diff that is staked. It's called the bearing retaining nut, very creatively and the manual says use LRT 41 007 special tool to remove it.

I too sarted th rebuild project last year and found out I needed some shims to et the tolerances correct on the input shaft. They are coming over at th e end of the month but I am still stuck on that nut, I'v tried drifting it and a pipe wrench I think I will just have to fabricate something that will get it off.

Martin

[Marco]

The nut is the large one on the rear end of the centre diff that is staked. It's called the bearing retaining nut, very creatively and the manual says use LRT 41 007 special tool to remove it.

Martin

OK, that one is locked and you will have to tap the bend part back before you can undo it. I removed mine with a large adjustable spanner.

Cheers

Marco

[Marco]

Just found this one on the web, it's in German. The interesting bit the steel sleeve for the intermediate shaft.... the main oil leak problem on my reconditioned Ashcroft box...

http://www.rainer4x4.de/vtgrev.htm

Cheers

Marco

[nickwilliams]

I too sarted th rebuild project last year and found out I needed some shims to et the tolerances correct on the input shaft. They are coming over at th e end of the month but I am still stuck on that nut, I'v tried drifting it and a pipe wrench I think I will just have to fabricate something that will get it off.

Martin

To get the nut off mine I used a pin punch to push the indent back out of the grove and then one of these: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=783.

I'm not convinced you need to worry about the pre-load shims for the input shaft bearings - just put the ones that came out back in again (unless they are damaged). The bearings themselves will be machined to tolerances way tighter than anything you can manage to measure in a home workshop, and the ground/milled steel components will be pretty good as well. Besides, there is a gasket between the PTO end bearing support and the main body of the case anyway so that's never going to hold really tight tolerances. I think shimming is only required to compensate for variability in machining the box casting so if you don't replace any of the cast aluminium components then re-shimming should not be required.

But I could be wrong...

Personally, I think the LT230 construction is pretty crude (single race ball bearings supported in place by circlips in a machined aluminium casting for the output shafts being a case in point) so I'd not get too excited about micron level tolerances in the bearing assemblies.

Nick.

[martinspragg]

I agree with you Nick but I am putting primary gears and bearings and the shim that is in the box is too thick so that when you torque it down the bearings are locked solid. So a I need the next size down or so.

[Andrew Chua]

grrr.... that's where mine is leaking too. hence i've stripped the entire box to do it all over again after 1mth of usage. actually, i'm paying the guys to do it as i don't have the time to do it.

anyway, is that a way of fixing this leak without having to strip the box?

[reb78]

grrr.... that's where mine is leaking too. hence i've stripped the entire box to do it all over again after 1mth of usage. actually, i'm paying the guys to do it as i don't have the time to do it.

anyway, is that a way of fixing this leak without having to strip the box?

Can try bunging a load of RTV sealant up there. Mine is leaking from the intermediate shaft and rear output seal at the moment. When i replace the rear seal, i'm also going to try poking as much sealant up around that intermediate shaft sleeve area - mine is only a drip though. When it leaks seriously it'll get a new box as this one will be nearing 200k at that point. Otherwise to fix it, the box has to come out, and if the hole has elongated to the shape of an oval a replacement o ring wont seal properly and the hole needs to be drilled oversize and an insert put in like in the pics above to create a round hole that the o ring will work in again.

[Marco]

Enclosed an image of my Landy Gearbox Leak Nappy MK I (part number LGLNMKI) ... as fitted since September, needs replacement every 600 Miles before flooding.....

It's a temporary fix to stop EP spilling on the street.

Cheers

Marco

[Aragorn]

I'm watching this with interest as i've got a pair of LT230's that i hope to strip and rebuild into one good shiney box!

[martinspragg]

A tip for the intermediate shaft that I came across via a magazine photo coverage of Ashcrofts changing the ratio of the transfer case: they replace the o ring on the shaft then run silicone sealant on the shaft and the hole in the casing. It's a bit belt and braces but when I get down to the rebuild I will follow their advice.

The other tip from the same source was to use a piece of narrow cord to suspend the intermediate gears in the case whilst you are trying to thread the shaft through them, this definitely makes what could be a fiddly job into a breeze.

If you have a decent set of tools and pullers the strip down is simple and having done a couple of dry runs at assembling mine I think the rebuild is not too bad either.

[nickwilliams]

I don't think you'll get RTV to work as anything more than a very temporary fix unless the shaft and the hole it fits into are scrupulously degreased before you put the silicone on. Personally, I'd try a thicker O ring before resorting to RTV.

The trick with the string is straight out of the Landrover service manual, but so far as I can see it's only necessary if you have removed the intermediate shaft and gears without taking out the input shaft and/or the differential. If both these are out and the box is in pieces on the bench then it's easy enough to get the intermediate shaft in just by hand.

I started taking photo's of my re-build last weekend but as I discovered more knackered parts (differential gears, rear output spline and the flanges are worn out and/or suffering rust damage as well as the output bearings being loose) I forgot about the pictures, but I'm expecting to get the bits ready in time to put mine back together this coming weekend. I'm afraid I won't have time to do a comprehensive pictures and text guide a la Les, but if anyone wants any specific pictures please say so here and I will try to take and then post them.

Nick.

[Marco]

A tip for the intermediate shaft that I came across via a magazine photo coverage of Ashcrofts changing the ratio of the transfer case: they replace the o ring on the shaft then run silicone sealant on the shaft and the hole in the casing. It's a bit belt and braces but when I get down to the rebuild I will follow their advice.

I guess that's what Ashcroft did to my recon unit, it lasted for 10.000 - 15.000 miles before it started to leak like hell.... IMO a proper recon company aware of this problem should not fix it with sealant but with a more permanent mod like the steel sleeve insert.... As soon as my own recon job is ready I will take out the Ashcroft box and will investigate the intermediate shaft & hole on that box.

Cheers

Marco

[Aragorn]

I don't think you'll get RTV to work as anything more than a very temporary fix unless the shaft and the hole it fits into are scrupulously degreased before you put the silicone on. Personally, I'd try a thicker O ring before resorting to RTV.

The trick with the string is straight out of the Landrover service manual, but so far as I can see it's only necessary if you have removed the intermediate shaft and gears without taking out the input shaft and/or the differential. If both these are out and the box is in pieces on the bench then it's easy enough to get the intermediate shaft in just by hand.

I started taking photo's of my re-build last weekend but as I discovered more knackered parts (differential gears, rear output spline and the flanges are worn out and/or suffering rust damage as well as the output bearings being loose) I forgot about the pictures, but I'm expecting to get the bits ready in time to put mine back together this coming weekend. I'm afraid I won't have time to do a comprehensive pictures and text guide a la Les, but if anyone wants any specific pictures please say so here and I will try to take and then post them.

Nick.

What i'd like is not so much photos of the build, but more a bit of an idea what "special" tools i need to do the job. If theres any part thats particularly tricky then by all means a photo would be helpful but a description is just as good.

The landrover manual just reads like a huge list of bespoke special tools, which made me think "uhoh", but as you've described, all you've needed so far was a standard 2 leg puller, which i'm sure i already have!

Cheers!

[tweetyduck]

if anyone can tell me how to get at the rear taper bearing on the output shaft (the inner one) i'd be much obliged. If you look at my post in the parts request section you'll see which one i mean.

Thanks

My post in part section.

ps if any one wants their leg pulled, you don't need a 2 leg puller,,,just me.

[nickwilliams]

if anyone can tell me how to get at the rear taper bearing on the output shaft (the inner one) i'd be much obliged. If you look at my post in the parts request section you'll see which one i mean.

Thanks

My post in part section.

This bearing is on the rear of the differential and is removed by taking the whole differential out from the other (front) side of the transfer box.

Nick.

[nickwilliams]

What i'd like is not so much photos of the build, but more a bit of an idea what "special" tools i need to do the job. If theres any part thats particularly tricky then by all means a photo would be helpful but a description is just as good.

The landrover manual just reads like a huge list of bespoke special tools, which made me think "uhoh", but as you've described, all you've needed so far was a standard 2 leg puller, which i'm sure i already have!

Cheers!

I've so far managed to get the box completely to pieces, including taking all the bearings off the shafts, and mostly back together again just with standard tools and a three legged puller. Getting the bearing races out of the aluminium box castings requires careful attack with a drift whereas LandRover recommend using a two legged puller and slide hammer, but I'm afraid I could not be bothered to make one just for this job so I decided to do it the crude way. Works fine with a bit of care.

Nick.

[tweetyduck]

thanks....box now in bits.

i'll buy all the seals and replace the bearing. The others look fine. To be honest i wouldn't be supprised if the box has been done already and the bad bearing was installed wrong or faulty.

[martinspragg]

Just found this one on the web, it's in German. The interesting bit the steel sleeve for the intermediate shaft.... the main oil leak problem on my reconditioned Ashcroft box...

http://www.rainer4x4.de/vtgrev.htm

Cheers

Marco

I think the sleeve insert is there because the casing has been remanufactured. If the hole has become oval the remanufacturers will over drill a larger hole and fit a sleeve into to it and then reuse the casing. But if it the seal in a steel sleeve is better oand more long lasting than the original aluminium housed one it would be definitely worth looking into doing this as an improvement modfication

[Andrew Chua]

after a long chat with the mechanic and he taking $400 from my pocket in my case, the problem was just the 2 rubber washer which that intermediate shaft sits on. the box itself was perfectly fine. $10 for the parts. sometimes the seal just wears out. while the hole is still perfectly round after more than 15yrs.

moral of the story with this leak is that it's a real pain to get to leaking parts. no wonder land rovers keep leaking and their owners don't fix them.