tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 The haynes says take it to too the dealer. Can i do it myself and if so how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I'd like to know the answer to this too. I suspect you need a press though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 FTC861 needle roller bearing, shouldn't be any more difficult than a wheel bearing to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 the problem is you cant really get to the inside of it to tap it out... I think i'm going to chuck a pair of new stub axles on anyway, so i wont have that problem, but i'd imagine belting the bearing with a hammer is going to break it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 shouldn't be any more difficult than a wheel bearing to change There's the words of someone that's never done it The bearing has to be pulled out, rather than knocked out (like a wheel bearing ) Usually, the needle rollers and not much else comes out and you are left with the outer 'cage' to remove, which is incredibly difficult. I remove the rollers first, then heat the cage as much as I can (a needle flame blow torch or oxy flame will do it). The excessive heat weakens what grip there is between cage and housing, and then it comes out fairly easily. You can't chisel it, drill it, hit it with any size hammer, and swearing doesn't work at all The proper tool is a thick washer/spacer, which is put on the 'inside' of the bearing housing, then a threaded bar over a suitably sized tube on the opposite side, which is tightened, and pulls the bearing out. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Les: If i'm starting with a pair of new stub axles, whats the procedure for fitting them? Is a press a must? if i were to get some flat plate, and some threaded rod would i be able to pull the bearing in with that? Or would it tap in with a soft mallet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 If you are starting with a new stub axle, then no problem. I suggest you press the bearing - rather then knocking it in. You can use a flat bar across the bearing and then press it into the stub. The problem with these bearings is not fitting them, but removing them. You may get away with using a mallet, but the needles may pop out if you use that method, and they are a bit of a swine to put back in Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I did this job a couple of weeks ago. make sure your order a new oil seal as you WILL destroy this in removing the bearing. I managed to tap it out from the other side with a long and slightly bent drift. But only after I had totally mullared the oil seal and pulled it out completely in bits. At least that gives you a clear view of the back of the bearing to tap it out. It did in fact come out quite easily then. It helps to look at the picture of the bearing in the link above so you know exactly what it is you are getting out since this is not clear (I was waiting for the part so didn't have one to look at). Putting it back in was pretty simple with an appropriately size socket. Remember to put the new seal in first as it would be really annoying to have to do the job again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I removed the bearing from mine with a bent screwdriver used as punch dead simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 I'm off to the dealer tomorrow to see what the rip off would be.....watch this space. If its more than £40 ie. parts and 15mins labour i'm going to try myself. Bent screwdrivers, i have ! Thanks all...this looks like a tricky one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 they just said 45mins so i said "no thanks". I've got the parts so i'm going to give it a try. Worse case is the entire thing and all the parts is £54 which i can then put together. Putting it together is easy. Taking it apart is more challenging. Will let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Before i worked for KAM, i didn't have access to many special tools, so i just used a bent screw driver as suggested. It's simple - bend the end of a large flat head, poke it down the long end of the stub axle and wack away! FFS Don't take it to a dealer, it really is a simple easy job - i mean - it involves a hammer and a flat screw driver Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 OK its done. 10 min job. Seal goes in with tensioning spring downwards. Bearing goes words/manufaturer upwards. Use the old bearing to knock in both the seal and new bearing. I slit it and removed the pins/cage to assist in this as per the ones i did for the wheel bearings. Easy job. nothing to it. This is the tools i used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 No way to Treat a Screwdriver Number 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Only a Railway man, PO man or BT man.....knows his ofcom (oftel in those days) approved tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Well, look at that, no more dificult than changing a wheel bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 In your opinion Ralph, but usually it's a lot more difficult - especially if the needles fall out. Removing just the outer sleeve is a different thing entireley. If you use a bent screwdriver or similar tool, then there's a risk that you may also damage/score the bearing seat, which will then need dressing In order to repair the damage/make sure that the new bearing fits correctly. A drift of the correct diameter and length can be used, or pull the bearing out if you have the right tool to do it. Some things can be bodged, but not bearing removal/replacing. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 ............. Some things can be bodged, but not bearing removal/replacing. Les. Oh I don't know. Around the farm I reckon bearing removal is one of the things that gets bodged most of all. Lost count of the inner races I have had to grind, chisel or weld off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Perhaps that's why you have to replace then so often Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 to be honest i'd convinced myself i'd need a new one as i was sure i'd screw it up. In fact there was no damage to the bearing seat at all. The wheel bearings had minimal nicks when i did those but this was nothing. I wiped it with a workshop wipe and they normally snag on any nicks. There were none. Visual inspection showed zero. I wasn't careful but it may just have been luck with my bent #2 screwdriver (kudos to White!) Thanks for all the advice,,, which made me go for it. Now i've just got to sort out that knackered swivel bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 No way to Treat a Screwdriver Number 2 I think you will find its a No4 ...........the No1, 2, & 3 were short and the 4 & 6 were long ........... I even found my original 81's the other day in the workshop............. Sad ....... yes, but it taught me well.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Now i need to go and look....yep installer number 4.... I have the full set btw in the nice briefcase. Although one's been used as a chisel and another is bent all my tools are complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 what about pots p***ing No2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 what about pots p***ing No2? Yep there was one of those as well.... called a 'dipper' and it was to be found on cable jointers vehicles. It real use was for heating water or melting lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 yep thats the one. Still using most of my screwdrivers and I left BT in 1990. Just shows how well the were built. My Dad still has some of his GPO tools in use. Always found heating lead in it made an awful smell for some reason, so never heated water with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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