Jump to content

Replacing the side windows on a stationwagon


Recommended Posts

A few weeks back I asked about options for replacing the drafty, leaky, insecure (and in my case, no longer see-through) two-piece sliding side windows on a 110 Stationwagon with something simpler and cheaper. There weren't any obvious solutions and replacement glasses for the windows are horribly expensive and still leave the problems of drafts, water and thieves. So after some head-scratching I pulled one of the existing windows out, took it apart and came-up with a solution to fit a single sheet of glass into the existing frame. I thought it might help someone else if I documented the procedure, so here it is...

You'll need:

Existing stationwagon side window assembly

A sheet of 4mm (or 5mm for VIN pre-EA344187) toughened glass (see below)

2 of MWC7617 glazing strip (or MUC1484 for 5mm glass)

1 of MUC1005 filler strip

4 of No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws (see www.modelfixings.co.uk)

2 of 4mm * 9mm pop rivets

24 of 4mm * 12mm pop rivets

Also handy:

Silicon spray lube

No. 4 tap

Firstly remove the existing window from the bodywork - it's held-in by 24 rivets, hidden under the filler strip, which just pulls out.

4416793547_7ea40b0f0a.jpg

Drill out the rivets...

4417557686_bbe1d24034.jpg

and then lever out the window from the body, leaving you with this...

4416794061_85259ec240.jpg

The frame is a two-piece unit, held together by plates riveted and screwed into each half...

4416794293_394992e4a5.jpg

...although someone has already fiddled with this one (probably when they fitted the horrible perspex windows) and replaced some of the screws with rivets

4417559124_8e6ec1972f.jpg

There are also two self-tapping screws holding the central divider in

4417558738_b8c12ea69d.jpg

Have out all the screws (and rivets in my case)

4416795505_724836001a.jpg

and you can split the frame apart

4416795897_32946fb761.jpg

There's a whole load of gunk and hardware for holding the old windows in - strip it all out, you just want the empty frames, which will leave you with a pile like this for the bin

4417727354_c25faa71a9.jpg

You'll see the frame has two channels, on one side the joining bar is in the rear channel, which is fine, but on the other side the bar is in the front channel, which means it will have to move to make way for the glass

4417560276_3585f134dc.jpg

Drill out the two rivets holding the "front channel" bar in place and the bar should come free

4416796559_d86f73582a.jpg

leaving you with this

4417561064_782e676c5e.jpg

Usefully there are already holes drilled in the other channel, so the two 4mm * 9mm pop rivets can be used to refit the bar, but now in the back channel

4416797327_40768f7a21.jpg

At this point it's a good moment to run a tap through the screw holes as they tend to get a bit gunky over the years and check that the machine screws fit

4417561654_d620a7e363.jpg

Next comes the window glass. The first local glass merchants I went to weren't interested in anything to do with vehicle windows, but the second (W. H. Constable, Cambridge) were very helpful. What they needed was a template of the window which they then cut from 4mm glass which was sent off to be toughened. As it happened. cutting the four radiused corners cost more than the glass itself - £8 for the glass, £10 for four corners, £18 (ex. VAT) all in. I used the two halves of the old windows and a ruler to mark the template out on 3mm hardboard which I then cut with a Stanley knife and rounded the corners to shape with sandpaper. A cardboard template would have been fine, but using hardboard meant I could test assemble the frame with the template to make sure my measurements were good.

As we plan to spend some time in southern Europe during the summer I got 3m of tinting film (http://www.abodewindowfilms.co.uk) for £9, which was enough to do both side windows and both of the little rear windows. It's a lot easier to apply tinting film to the glass when it's on a table then when it's in the car.

4416797835_37a579509c.jpg

Next you need to get one of the MWC7617 glazing strips

4416799725_874f504941.jpg

and ease it around half of the glass. They're longer than needed so you can cut them down to size once they're on the glass - you don't need to be too precise though as the second strip will take up the slack.

4417562054_0f0138946a.jpg

Now you need to get the larger piece of the frame and liberally spray the outer channel (the one without the joining bars) with silicon spray lube - this helps, a lot, when you slide the glass into the channel, although it's actually a lot easier than it looks!

4417562346_c09edee65a.jpg

Glazing strip sliding down frame (sorry for fuzzy photos, I was lubricating myself with Freeminer Organic Ale at the time...)

4416798595_2980877c2f.jpg

Once the glass is almost fully slid home you need to start working the glazing strip into the long side of the channel, again this is easier than you'd think. Start by running your fingers along the glazing strip on the outside of the window, pushing the strip into the frame - you'll only get it half-in, but that's fine. Then do the same on the inside of the glass, then again on the outside, which should push it fully home and finally on the inside again.

4416798955_e706eeea13.jpg

Each end of the glazing strip should look like this

4417563262_10634c32f8.jpg

and the corners like this

4416799361_10d8668589.jpg

Then get the second pack of glazing strip and feed it down the channel on one side of the frame, butting it tightly against the first bit of glazing strip and round the glass to the other end.

4416800019_034b675f68.jpg

Run the strip on the outside of the channel and using a sharp Stanley knife cut it to length, then feed it into the channel, leaving you with this

4416800223_eef36fa3b5.jpg

Now lube the other section of the frame, slide it over the glazing strip and repeat the pushing-in process to get the glazing strip fully seated

4416800455_c448e41afd.jpg

One window I did just went together perfectly, the other needed a little persuasion for the last few millimetres

4417564752_1a3233828a_o.jpg

Then just screw in the machine screws to hold the frame together (please ignore the cr*p countersinking, I couldn't find my countersink, so used a 10mm bit - ugly but it works and it's hidden)

4416801021_349f4d0a82.jpg

Temporary 'window' in place and new one ready to go in

4417565392_e6374ed676.jpg

Twenty-four 4mm * 12mm pop rivets later

4416801583_d26fc0c781.jpg

Then it's just the most frustrating part of the whole job to fit the new MUC1005 filler strip (softening it in hot water and swearing a lot helps) and job's a good 'un

4416937899_950824684a.jpg

Hope this is of use,

AndyC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Nice write up, the originals rarely get opened.

I still have a shed load of 4 x 12mm rivets if anyone wants to pm me (I had to buy 1000 when I needed 50!), postage plus price of a pint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Andrew. It's a fair while ago, but you didn't happen to keep the glass template by any chance?

(Lucky I just bought another 110 (sold the one with the window job a couple of years back) so I'm back on LR4x4 to see this)!

I don't think I have the template, but I will take a look in the garage on the off-chance that it's survived. It's the sort of thing that might be tucked away somewhere.

A.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha. I;d seen a flurry of activity from you lately..... welcome back.

If you could take a look when you get time, that would be great. I could drop my windows out, but then i cant use it whilst i sort out the glass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd hoped to take a look this evening, but stuck at work (although not working as you can see...), will do tomorrow.

Gazzar - yeah, the honey is nice & I'm not normally a fan of honey things. Beer of the moment for me though is Pure Ubu from Purity, very nice pint :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy