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Tape measures on standby! I'm trying to build a list of all the standard LR propshafts so that people (OK, mainly me :rolleyes: ) can find a stock propshaft to suit rather than having to crawl under all their mate's vehicles with tape measures in the hope of finding something that will fit.

So far, from the front of the green bibles, I have accumulated these below. All measured at rest (centre of the sliding joint) and I'm not convinced the mm/inches conversion is correct - but it's copied straight from the book! Might explain LR's engineering "tolerances" :o

Series 1:

86, 88, 107, 109 Front: 654mm / 23.812"

86 & 88 Rear: 554mm / 21.812"

107 & 109 Rear: 1087mm / 42.812"

Series 3:

4cyl Front - 604.8 mm / 23.812"

6cyl Front - 693.7 mm / 27.312"

88" Rear - 554.0 mm / 21.812"

109" 4cyl Rear - 1042.9 mm / 41.062"

109" 6cyl Rear - 955.7 mm / 37.625"

Any measurement is good - but if anyone has the green bible for other models you might find it written in there in the tech data section?

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just what I was thinking yesterday. Idealy the max and min length of each propshaft would be handy. Also additional detail such as special models, double cardan, high angle etc. would be very usefull. Also which uj size it is.

I ended up using a 88" rear prop at the back and a 90" rearprop at the front of my coil sprung 88". I found these by walking on the old sodbury sortout with a tape measure.

I cant be very helpfull with creating this list at te moment, cause my landy is about 100 miles away from me!

Daan

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Series 1:

86, 88, 107, 109 Front: 654mm / 23.812"

86 & 88 Rear: 554mm / 21.812"

I could be wrong but last time i changed my Series 1 86" the front and rear were the same length!

86" and 88" certainly arent the same as one has an extra 2" in it.

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I could be wrong but last time i changed my Series 1 86" the front and rear were the same length!

86" and 88" certainly arent the same as one has an extra 2" in it.

Right I've ad me bath now and can be more usefull!

86" front and rear are the same as 88" rear

88" fronts are longer due to the extra 2" in the wheel base is in the front (to allow for a smelly oil burner thing).

I think this is great idea to log these dimmensions, how are you going to make them easily findable?

When ever I return to Forum I can never find stuff again!

I've just come to a halt trying to change the bushes on the Panard rod on the Hybrid (used the tip on here for removing bushes works great cheers) Early V8, 6 bolt axle tubes and a 4 speed manual, so I figure they are early RR bushes. Pulled the old ones out and nope the new ones are too small a diameter!

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Hopefully if there is enough goo technical info in the thread it'll end up in the tech archive ;)

I did wonder about the 86/88 lengths but they're what's in the (albeit badly scanned) green bible I've got! If someone wants to add real-life measurements it'd be interesting to see who's right :blink:

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  • 1 month later...

Some Land Rover oddities

Top one is for a Salisbury front axled vehicle (Defender or Series I'm not sure)

Bottom one is Stage 1 V8 Front

IMG_4310.jpg

I'll update the thread later with the part numbers and lengths (the post-it note is in my garage somewhere)

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Hi, if you need a special propshaft my solution for a S1 hybrid was to modify a Disco rear shaft.

Ist lay shaft on a flat surface , inside the Vee of a piece of angle iron. Scribe a line down the shaft guided by the angle near the end you are going to cut off. Centre punch the UJ and the line in several places to retain allignment later. Grind off weld joining UJ to shaft close to UJ, break the pieces apart carefully and clean up the UJ stub.

Using a large tube cutter cut a light groove around the point you wish to cut off the excess tube. If in doubt leave some extra for a second go. If you dont have a tube cutter wrap a piece of A4 paper round the shaft several times and pencil mark the edge which will give you 90degree cut line . Carefully hacksaw off (otherwise using a tube cutter you will get a lip pressed onto the inner edge of the tube) . Push the stub back into the tube aligning the centre punch marks and offer it up to the axle/tranfer box with the chassis chocked, axle hanging and check your slide shaft will cover full articulation.

When you are satisfied re-check allignment and tack weld 4 the joint at 12 6 9 and 3 oclock. Then finish weld. If you are stick welding, weld small sections at a time and chip/grind the slag before restarting. Tidy up your welds if necessary but dont grind flush!!

I started using this method after making up lorry pump drives as they usually came new with one end unfitted.

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On 10/23/2009 at 7:12 PM, MECCANO said:

Another one:

Lse front propshaft (solid bar type to clear auto box)

Found lengths on "the bay"

665mm and 703mm

This information is incorrect.

the dimensions are actually 

665 extended

603 compressed

i need to buy a spacer now to make it work..

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