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TD5 Clutch Master Change


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The Defender clutch master change out post in the relates to a 300TDi. As I have just done mine on a TD5 I thought it would be a good idea to highlight some of the differences with a 90 TD5 CSW so those who want to have a go can see what is needed.

On top of the clutch master cylinder, you will need the top and bottom gaskets for the pedal box(top 272819 bottom depends on vehicle), a new gasket for the master cylinder attachment to the box (ANR5308), and some copper seals for the pipes (2 or 4 of 233220).

The bonnet stay on mine was just the stay at the front of the engine bay. Removing the bonnet is therefore much more simple that the tech archive article. Leaving the bonnet fully open fouls the windscreen wipers - so any wind is likely to bring it crashing down on your head!

There are a few extra bits knocking about around the master cylinder: mainly electrical connections, and brake pipes.

The air filter is not located in this area, so this part of the dismatling is not neccesary.

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You will need to undo the bolts holding in the brake pedal box, as this does get in the way of removing the clutch pedal box. So all 12 bolts under the wheel come out. The spring for the clutch pedal is found attached onto one of the nuts.

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There is more attached to the clutch pedal box than the 300tdi - There is the clutch sensor on the hydraulic line, two plugs on the plate screwed to the top of the box, and at the bottom of the plate a bracket holding the brake lines in place. These do get in the way later. The cover therefore needs to be removed before the box is removed from the car.

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The pedal box, and the steering column do get in the way, as does everything in this area when you take the pedal box out!

You can see the clutch sensor at the top of the pedal box. This needs unplugging.

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Once the box has been removed, the parts become clearer to see. The main difference is the addition of the sensor to the master cylinder.

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You can see the sensor above. This did not help with understanding how to dismantle the thing, so after fiddling for a while it came apart by unscrewing the sensor part from the master cylinder, not the piece attached to it. The sensor goes right through the banjo (is that the right name for it?) and has the copper washers (233220) either side of the banjo. Mine had 4 in total - 2 above 2 below. Discard and replace the copper washers.

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Screw the sensor into the master cylinder, and then put back in the pedal box.

The workshop manual does not mention the Les' practical trick of putting the two lock nuts half way down the push rod. It does reduce the phaffing around to adjust the clutch later.

The most time consuming and difficut part of the job turned out to be getting the bolts that hold the pedal boxes back in place! Getting the bolts, the gasket holes and the pedal box holes aligned on my own was a nightmare. It would have been easier if there were someone there to hold the boxes and gaskets in place. However, the brake pedal box was a nightmare unto itself. You cannot see the holes for the steering column on the clutch box side of the engine. It is a purely blind operation.

One back in the clutch system will need bleeding and adjusting.

I hope that this helps someone by illustrating the differences between the models.

Cheers

Martin

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