Hi and low diff lock how do I work it?

[Tibout]

Hi there been rebuilding my 2.5 td 90 year 88 for a while now. I'm getting there. I've got which might seem a stupid question! But can anyone explain me how to work the small lever and when to use the different option of hi and low neutral etc. And where should it be position fir normal driving please.

I'll really appreciate any help thanks

thierry

[errol209]

Hi there been rebuilding my 2.5 td 90 year 88 for a while now. I'm getting there. I've got which might seem a stupid question! But can anyone explain me how to work the small lever and when to use the different option of hi and low neutral etc. And where should it be position fir normal driving please.

I'll really appreciate any help thanks

thierry

Back = high (normal) ratio

Middle = Neutral

Forward = low ratio

Right = centre differential working

Left = centre differential locked

Right / back = normal road driving

Left / back = use to overcome loss of traction on the flat (e.g. on wet grass), wheel changing.

Left / forward = climbing hills on low traction surfaces (off roading)

Right / forward = low speed maneuvering (with very large trailers etc.)

Anything / Middle = using centre PTO, confusing car thieves.

[landroversforever]

The little leaver is back and right for normal driving. This is High ratio and not locked.

Pushing the lever forward from the normal position puts the transfer box into low range.

From either of the above positions, the lever can be pushed to the left. this locks the center differential in the transfer box.

Driving using high, low and difflock has many different opinions, but this is what I do:

High for normal road driving, and lanes that are smooth and easy jsut crawling along in 1st.

I use low if traction might be an issue, If i want the extra controll eg. downhill or over an obstical.

If traction is likely to be an issue I put the difflock in too.

EDIT: I took too long to post

[Tibout]

Hi thanks guys so basiclly if Ive got this right if I'm driving normally it should be in high at the back and lever towards me on the right. Then if I push it forward still on the right that's in low for more traction. And if I push it to the left on low it lock the differential best use when doing extreme off roading. If I lock it in high what's that for. And what about when it's on neutral in the middle? Does that just put the drive train in neutral? what's the purpose for? Also what's the best way of selecting each diffenrent option should the landy be in a halt position or on the move? Sorry for being so hard to understand I just want to make sure what I'm doing.

Thanks again

[Gromit]

To add to this, in general you usually stop to change from hi to low, though it can be done on the move.

Changing from low to high is done as follows:

From low 3rd or 4th

Clutch in

Transfer to Neutral

Clutch up

Clutch in

Transfer to H

Select 2nd gear

Clutch up

Locking / unlocking the diff can be done on the move, providing you are not spinning a wheel or driving in circles etc.

When unlocking the diff, the diff-lock light will not go out until the transmission has unwound either by reversing in circles or driving on loose ground.

[Gromit]

if I'm driving normally it should be in high at the back and lever towards me on the right.

Yes

Then if I push it forward still on the right that's in low for more traction.

Yes, pulling/pushing stuff, low speed maneuvering, climbing, general larking about etc.

And if I push it to the left on low it lock the differential best use when doing extreme off roading.

Yes

If I lock it in high what's that for.

Anywhere where you are likely to loose traction at higher speed and don't necessarily need low range. Wet grass, sand etc.

And what about when it's on neutral in the middle? Does that just put the drive train in neutral? what's the purpose for?

It puts the transfer box in neutral. Used for running a PTO (or diagnosing which of your gearboxes is broken )

Also what's the best way of selecting each diffenrent option should the landy be in a halt position or on the move?

See my previous post.

Sorry for being so hard to understand I just want to make sure what I'm doing.

that's what the forum is for.

[landroversforever]

One thing I would add about changing from high-low and the other way round. I find the easiest way to make sure it changes and stays there without popping out, is to be literally just moving, this I find makes it 10times easier to change .

[Gromit]

One thing I would add about changing from high-low and the other way round. I find the easiest way to make sure it changes and stays there without popping out, is to be literally just moving, this I find makes it 10times easier to change .

True, or give the hi/low lever an extra push, as you move off.

[Tibout]

That's really of great help now at least I know what Im looking at and what to do thank you so much guys really really appreciate

King regards

thierry

[LandyManLuke]

True, or give the hi/low lever an extra push, as you move off.

Yes, if you're stationary when you change, and it doesn't go all the way in, just a little pressure on the lever as you bring the clutch up should make it drop in just fine.

[landroversforever]

Thierry, the best thing to do is to go play when the truck is built. Just try different things and see what gets you further or makes driving easier .

[FridgeFreezer]

Just to add: Don't drive with difflock in on hard surfaces or you'll "wind up" the gears against each other and then something will make an expensive bang. On loose surfaces it's not a problem as the wheels can slip a bit.

[Tibout]

Yeah i will start playing with it next and get the feeling thanks again guys

[IslandDefender90]

Hello All,

So I am a rookie defender owner and also had the same question. However, it seems like my 4x4 stick is the other way. Is that possible?
High = forward left

Neutral = middle left

low = back left

lock = forward right

off = back right 

Also what is the off position for? From the comments above it seems high is the normal drive position. 
 

Thanks in advance from this newb!

[western]

High range with centre diff disengaged is as described above,

4x4 is permanent on 90/110/defenders, there is no 'off' position.

I would suggest the transfer gear knob upside down,  it should look like this 

 

 

[IslandDefender90]

Yes I feel like a moron! The knob was twisted. And what I thought read as off was actually diff. Opps. 😜

Thanks for being helpful! 

[Alx]

On 8/20/2010 at 12:23 PM, Gromit said:

Yes

Yes, pulling/pushing stuff, low speed maneuvering, climbing, general larking about etc.

Yes

Anywhere where you are likely to loose traction at higher speed and don't necessarily need low range. Wet grass, sand etc.

It puts the transfer box in neutral. Used for running a PTO (or diagnosing which of your gearboxes is broken )

See my previous post.

that's what the forum is for.

As a first time owner this is one of the most useful forum posts I ever read. Thank you 

[western]

Also note the centre difflock warning light will only illuminate when the difflock is actually engaged, not when you select it & when disengaging the light may take a little while to extinguish as the centre diff unlocks, it might be required to reverse a few metres/feet to help it disengage, try not to drive on hard surfaces with the difflock engaged or it could get expensive very quickly & your piggy bank may leave home as it'll be penny less. 

[The Captain]

Hi guys,

 

I have read the thoughts on diff usage above. I am still confused. Maybe it's because I am a new owner. Mine is the defender 110 year of make 1990 and its a pickup. When I start it, it doesn't have power to move forward until i engage the diff. On a slightly hill surface, what should my diff selection be of I want to move forward and if I want to reverse?

On a level ground, what should be my option on the diff.? 

 

Thanks

[western]

If the vehicle only moves with the centre diff locked, then you may have another problem to rectify, it could be a striped splines in a hub drive member in centre of the wheel,  stripped splines on one or more driveshaft, a broken driveshaft, 

[Snagger]

The original explanation of selections was not quite accurate.  You should have motive power with the lever forward or aft, whether it is to the left or right.  With the lever in the middle “N” position, the transfer box will be in neutral, so the gear box is disconnected from the axles.

When you move the lever to the left, “LOCK”, it locks both axles together by locking the differential in the front of the transfer box (do not confuse this with axle locking diffs, which work in the same way but this unit does not lock left and right wheels).  To the right, the centre diff is unlocked and you have normal driving with a regular centre diff.  This gives 4wd, but if one wheel loses grip, it can spin up while the others lose their drive.

The very first thing to check is that you have prop shafts fitted from the transfer box to each axle diff.  If one is missing, that axle will have no drive, but it is also highly likely that the shaft was removed to bypass damage inside the axle.

If you are only getting drive when the centre diff is locked, one of the axles has a fault and is allowing its innards to spin without transferring the force to the wheels, and as with a wheel with no grip, all the motion is going to that free component.  You need to find the cause of the loss of drive, and ideally do it soon as driving on one axle is bad for that part of the transmission, taking the whole force instead of half of it.  I’d start by parking on flat ground, chocking both front wheels, putting the brake on and selecting a gear (in case the parking brake doesn’t work) and then lifting both rear wheels off the ground.  Try spinning the wheels - turning one should spin the other in the opposite direction.  Then try turning one with the other stopped (held, or sitting on the ground) - it should only turn a bit with the slack in the system, but if you can turn it continuously, you have a fault in that axle.  If you can only turn it a bit, then repeat the process with the front axle lifted and the rear wheels chocked, but make sure diff lock is open (lever to the right).  If you can spin both wheels the same way, or spin one with the other stopped, the front axle is broken.

Once you find the broken axle, you’ll need to start looking at the splines on the drive flanges (star shaped end of the hub), the condition of the shafts, and the axle differentials.

The original advice about low range being for more grip and diff lock for extreme off road was wrong.  High and low range don’t affect grip; they affect speed and torque - low range reduces speed but multiplies torque.  Grip IS affected by diff lock - to lose all motive force would require a loss of grip on a wheel on both axles, not just one, so one axle will propel you on very uneven ground when a wheel is in the air, and greatly increases total motive grip in slippery conditions (but does not help with braking or make a huge difference to steering and directional control).

 

 

[LRcambs]

This is a fantastic post, I had a sinking feeling today when i started up my 110 to find it wouldnt move, no drive at all then i realised I had the hi/Low gearbox free in neutral. Reading this guide totally helped out!

[Jocklandjohn]

For a real world example of the effect of the LR 4wd system and how the diff lock works - I was bowling along the motorway in the 110 in pouring rain. Suddenly felt a loss of power, no change in engine noise though so I changed down to 4th, but was still losing speed, so changed down again this time into third and put the boot down but still the engine was turning as normal but I was still slowing. I eventually stopped, got out and found....a flat front tyre!

Seems the road was slippy enough with the rain for ALL the power to go to the 'wheel of least resistance' (the punctured and deflating one) and it had simply lost traction taken all the drive and spun on the wet tar, heating up considerably whilst the other three tyres had no drive and basically did nothing!

Changed the flat, started off and it ran like a champ again.

It underlined for me how useful the diff lock is in ensuring each corner gets some drive and its helped me get a wheel out of slippery stuff because I now know that with the diff lock OFF one stuck wheel will simply turn uselessly whilst the others do next to nothing. Engage diff lock and at least two of the remaining wheels will turn and I can get moving again.

[cackshifter]

So, another point - you shouldn't engage diff lock when there's grip, ie on normal roads etc, but you should if you are on a slippery surface whether there is wheelspin or not. Why?  Because if there is wheelspin the parts of the centre diff rotate very rapidly, and that throws the oil out of it, it gets hot and bothered and can weld up, within a few seconds. It's only designed to handle small variations of speed between front and rear propshafts (OK, and maybe that could be classified as a weak point). If it's slippery you protect the centre diff with the lock engaged and the slipperyness not the diff will allow the wheels to move at the slightly different speeds necessary.

[Sigi_H]

Just to explain: Not the Diff Lock is the feature. The Diff is!

This means, engage Diff Lock not when it is "necessary" ... engage when it is possible. When the ground is slippery enough for wheels to compensate different revs at the wheels it can be engaged. Then center diff is protected and can work, when it is really necessary on underground with good traction ie. roads (most of the time).