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Td5 Bulkhead Conversion


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Thanks again Rob. More info on the 2nd row seats mod here: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic330.html

I got my loom plugs today, so I just need to order some wiring of the correct colours and sizes and I can go about modifying my chassis loom :)

Totally sold now on Puma second row seats, they look so much better than the normal landy version. What wiring are you modding on the loom? Additions of heated screen and rear wash wipe? Did Richard get back to you?

Regards

Rob

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Not yet no, left him a message so will try him again on Monday.

I'm going to add the wiring for the rear heated screen/wiper to the loom, which means adding a few more pins to the plug at the forward end, and adding a new plug at the rear end. I will make up a separate loom for rear speakers I think in the future, or I may do it while the body's all off and it is accessible. I shall have to see how it plays out :)

That is, if I can find anywhere that sells 1.5mm² cable, everyone either seems to do 1mm² (not what's specified by LR) or 2mm² (too big for the connectors) :huh:

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Not yet no, left him a message so will try him again on Monday.

If he's who I think he is, he was at the LRO Show at the weekend.

That is, if I can find anywhere that sells 1.5mm² cable, everyone either seems to do 1mm² (not what's specified by LR) or 2mm² (too big for the connectors) :huh:

Polevolt are the only place I know of that sell 1.5mm2 thinwall cable, they don't sell many colours though :(

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html

.

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Hmm, I may not need it now anyway. After finally getting through to Richard today, he has what I need. A complete vehicle wiring loom from a ROW-spec 110. Unfortunately they don't come with central locking or electric windows, both of which I would like.

For the electric windows it is simple as it is basically just switches, plugs and fuses. I am just going to steal all the wiring out of my Td5 loom here and add it to the ROW-spec loom.

As for the central locking, I will probably end up just using an aftermarket kit here, as the prospect of trying to install the 10AS standalone, purely to operate the door locks/interior light, seems a bit daunting. But I shall look into it anyhow.

What is rather annoying is that I now have a £120 chassis loom that I have no need for, still never mind :(

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Rob,

Thanks for all your assistance, was invaluable. Yes Richard has sorted me with a loom, should be with me today or tomorrow. I will post up all my trials and tribulations with regard to the central locking, electric windows, alarm etc. here, as it will undoubtably not be simple!

Here's my 110 as current, bit tatty as you can see. Hence the re-working/re-build!

post-10578-089636600 1284634481_thumb.jpg

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Hmm, recieved the looms today with but a few issues shall we say...

  • Recieved a LHD bulkhead loom not a RHD one
  • Recieved two LH wing looms
  • No instrument pack loom

Richard is sorting these for me though, he's been more than helpful. The chassis loom (YNN00171) and engine loom appear to be fine :)

Some pics for fun:

Chassis loom bulkhead end plugs (note more wires in smaller grey one! :D):

post-10578-078856900 1284663922_thumb.jpg

All the wires I mentioned in my post earlier in the thread, for things like rear wiper etc, are present and correct. Except the water filter sensor one, but then this isn't a Td5 so I don't need it :)

Plugs for rear RH lights, as well as rear door harness (natural coloured one), aux rear power (white one with big purple wire), and towing harness connector (big one with lots of wires):

post-10578-028541000 1284663929_thumb.jpg

Plugs for LH rear lights:

post-10578-098344200 1284663936_thumb.jpg

An unknown piece of wire. Obviously for something battery/starter related, but I don't know what, any ideas? Has a strange bolt thing one end:

post-10578-021831100 1284663943_thumb.jpg

So hopefully I will have the correct bits on Monday. Doesn't really matter to me as I'm still waiting on getting permission to fix the roof, so no work can begin yet. Not that I will even then need the looms for many months anyhow, but it's nice to be ready with them.

Annoyingly it's holding up the roof swap on my 90 too, as I need to steal the rear door (Simon R's old rear door apparently :lol:) off the 110 to use on the 90 when the full roof goes back on, which I can't do until I get the 110 in the workshop! :(

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James, the wire in the last picture takes power from the battery positive, the bolt bit being the terminal clamp bolt, to the maxi fuse box which lives under the drivers seat. It runs across the back of the seat box clipped to the seat belt brackets.

HTH

Mo

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An unknown piece of wire. Obviously for something battery/starter related, but I don't know what, any ideas? Has a strange bolt thing one end:

my split charge loom has a battery clamp bolt fitting like that loom, thought it was a split charge lom, but Mo has informed you correctly.

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James,

The ROW of spec dash loom (I am assuming you mean the small loom that feeds the gauges etc) is the same as a standard Td5 spec loom. I too was concerned that there might be differences, but having connected my ROW loom up to a Td5 gauge pack it all works fine and believe you me I tested all the buttons! The engine loom supplied to me was a quality bit of kit and even has silver heat shielding on it where the alternator wiring passes close the exhaust manifold, got to say Land Rover seems to have really improved the quality of their looms, my old 200Tdi loom looked like a few pieces of straw held together with some bailing twine!

Richard is a quality guy who looks after his customers. Really good service.

Rob

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Unless it's changed, the dash loom isn't the same. Td5 one is YMG109280, ROW-spec (Tdi - VIN XA on) is YMG109260.

The difference is in the wiring for the temperature sender, on the ROW-spec one it is passed through the speedo head before going to the gauge, as there is some damping circuitry within that also performs an adjustment on the signal from the 300Tdi sender.

On a Td5 this is done by the engine ECU, which obviously recieves the signal and then passes it on directly to the gauge.

If Richard hasn't got a ROW-spec one then it's no biggie, I can easily modify my Td5 one here to ROW-spec, having done about five of them now, but plug-and-play is preferred!

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Unless it's changed, the dash loom isn't the same. Td5 one is YMG109280, ROW-spec (Tdi - VIN XA on) is YMG109260.

The difference is in the wiring for the temperature sender, on the ROW-spec one it is passed through the speedo head before going to the gauge, as there is some damping circuitry within that also performs an adjustment on the signal from the 300Tdi sender.

On a Td5 this is done by the engine ECU, which obviously recieves the signal and then passes it on directly to the gauge.

If Richard hasn't got a ROW-spec one then it's no biggie, I can easily modify my Td5 one here to ROW-spec, having done about five of them now, but plug-and-play is preferred!

Interesting....I have a temperature gauge that reads high and this would explain it! And there was me buying a new sender unit because I thought that was at fault. What mods does it therefore require to make the Td5 set up in a ROW spec dash pack....Or maybe I could ask Richard for a loom as well! Whatever is easier...

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Interesting....I have a temperature gauge that reads high and this would explain it! And there was me buying a new sender unit because I thought that was at fault. What mods does it therefore require to make the Td5 set up in a ROW spec dash pack....Or maybe I could ask Richard for a loom as well! Whatever is easier...

Have you seen the epic 'Wibbly-Wobbly Speedo' thread?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14892

or James's Technical Blog?

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/

Both are essential reading :D

.

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Interesting....I have a temperature gauge that reads high and this would explain it! And there was me buying a new sender unit because I thought that was at fault. What mods does it therefore require to make the Td5 set up in a ROW spec dash pack....Or maybe I could ask Richard for a loom as well! Whatever is easier...

Standard reading position with my 300Tdi sender and Td5 gauge is just to the left of the vertical :)

The modification is easy to do, it's detailed in my blog as linked by Paul above. Also is a picture of the standard running temp position as I just described.

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Okay, got my replacement bits from Richard today:

Dash harness, proper ROW-spec one (note number of wires in lower speedo plug):

post-10578-080989700 1285003271_thumb.jpg

And another main harness:

post-10578-015596800 1285003278_thumb.jpg

RHD this time, but still no central locking or electric windows. Either Richard doesn't have any like that (YMC002393) or he's not parting with them. I will butcher my Td5-spec harness here for the electric windows connectors and wiring, and add them to the loom. This will allow me to use the Td5 electric window motors. As for the central locking, the easiest way is probably going to be for me to buy an aftermarket kit and make up my own loom for it. I won't get the full feature set that the proper 10AS-powered system provides, such as integration with the interior light etc, but as far as I can see the only way that is going to happen is if I spend £1000 on the proper loom, or I miraculously come across one for sale second hand somewhere. It seems that not very many ROW-spec vehicles were built with these options.

Also have this harness, can anybody enlighten me as to it's purpose?

post-10578-032618800 1285003282_thumb.jpg

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Also have this harness, can anybody enlighten me as to it's purpose?

extracting the part number from the label in your photo, microcat says it's a interior light harness, non station wagon, non central locking,non anti-theft alarm.

part YMK000372

the black wire/connector is the interior light earth & the white connector is the power/door switch feed.

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bring on the next mystery :D

aahhh Ralph beat me to it! He is right of course though. I think I shall contact Richard and ask for an ROW spec dash loom...which to be fair should have been included in the orginal box of loom bits I figure. I have read through your tech post and yer it is great...but I am one for plug and play when it comes to wiring because I simply HATE it. lol.

Rob

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