will4x4 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Hi my cross member is a bit rotten and i fancy putting a new roll cage on my truck so have decided that if i remove the rear tub i can do all the welding on a new cross member easily without lying on the ground and make some nice roll cage mounts. But my question is how do i get it off! i had a look and can see some mounts but its riveted with hundreds of rivets all over the rear bulkhead bit? don't suppose there is a step by step guide to an easy removal wit pictures on here is there? do i have to take the seat box and rear bulk head out with it? Thanks in advance guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 10 bolts across the rear x member, 4 bolts on the chassis outriggers at the front, 4 bolts into the cill uprights, 9 m6's across the top of the seat box, 2 bolts on the seat belt brackets, disconnect electics, fuel filler, seat belt, outer cills and it should pop off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 The rear bulkhead is part of the tub but the seatbox isn't. The description in the earlier post just about covers it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 brilliant thanks guys i think i know what you mean.. has anyone done a step by step guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Sounds alot of work for a x member?? When i done mine i reoved the rear floor & supports & i had loads of room to work in and around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sj_4x4 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Sounds alot of work for a x member?? When i done mine i reoved the rear floor & supports & i had loads of room to work in and around. I've done it both ways, ohh er, and removing the tub makes it much easier and does not take that long, also helps you sort out all the other chassis related niggles as you have easy access, (refitting the tub temporarily for lineup purposes) .I don't have a guide but do have some photos if that is of any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Yes please SJ 4x4 photos would be great - i would rather take the whole lot off just so i can give it a really good look and clean but if its going to be a pain i might just remove the floor now as KKmobile said. when i changed my clutch recently i took the whole engine out for that same reason as would rather work over the top of something and make the job a good one than lying underneath cursing How do you get that floow piece out drill the rivets? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 How do you get that floow piece out drill the rivets? thanks Yes & if you have original steel rivets with domed heads then use grinder first to cut off the domes, Then punch through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sj_4x4 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Yes please SJ 4x4 photos would be great - i would rather take the whole lot off just so i can give it a really good look and clean but if its going to be a pain i might just remove the floor now as KKmobile said. Sorry don't have photos of the removal process, but you can see what you are left with from these, so you know what you need to take off. Remove the roof and sides first, fuel filler, seatbelts ect, this exposes the tub, with the tub off you get. Measure twice and cut once. Not sure I would have got it so accurate with the tub on. Job jobbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 thanks! mine is a soft top so will remove the tub as will be even easier... cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Def V8 90 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Sorry for the thread resurrection I have removed all bolts from the Seatbox, outriggers, seatbelt mounts, crossmember and the 4 b***ard bolts to the chassis just above & in front of the fuel pump (Td5) but try as I might the tub wants to stay with the chassis There is sticky foam tape along the back of the Seatbox, but even the hi-lift can't separate the two Please help me!!! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Fuel filler hose and rear wiring loom disconnected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi, It could be the two bolts either side of the seatbox arrowed in this picture. The can be a bit fiddly to get too and may envole a bit of lifting the rear tub up first and try and unhook it if that makes sense. Also that bracket that sit upright will need loosening and pulling away from the rear tub. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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