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  • 5 months later...

this is going to be a massive help !!!!! im deffo going to use this on my conversion ! thanks alot foggy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

No worries! Glad its of some use!

That's a beautiful bit of work Foggy - well done :)

Les.

Cheers Les! Hopefully it'll be a useful solution for a few folks!

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i done my best to make this mounter, looks good to me lol , but what do people do with lift pump on 300tdi conversions ? my engine dont have one but has a plate shaped like on on the block just above the injector pump ,can you bold one on under the plate ????

post-25240-254587_thumb.jpg

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i done my best to make this mounter, looks good to me lol , but what do people do with lift pump on 300tdi conversions ? my engine dont have one but has a plate shaped like on on the block just above the injector pump ,can you bold one on under the plate ????

Looks good to me, get it all bolted in!

Sounds like you need a lift pump, i'd avoid a Britpart one tho', they're not known for their longevity!

Go for genuine (if you can afford!) or a bearmach one, either will do nicely!

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all, I was searching through the net for info on the 300tdi conversion into an earlier land rover, 1988 td, when I came accross this forum.

Brilliant piece of work FOGGY, and greatly enhanced with the attached pictures, Thank you.

I would like to ask though, would this procedure be the same if fitting the r380 gearbox aswell?

Thank you for any response

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no-if you go with a R380 and a 300tdi you need the correct gearbox crossmember for an R380, seatbox, gearbox diaphragm/tunnel thingy, floor plates, 300tdi propshafts (IIRC) and engine mounts for a 300tdi on the chassis rails.

The Defender 200tdi is easiest (allthough the engines cost a premium) and is the route I went down.

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Thank you Rustynissanprairie for your advice, I should have said i have a complete 1998 defender for breaking, so have all the parts including a good bulkhead which I am changing as well, as the original is knackered.

So what I was really asking apart from the easiest way to do it, is, If any member were in my shoes,would they change to the r380 or stay with the lt77. I should add theres nothing wrong with the lt77 box apart from being covered in oil, dont know if its coming from box or from the engine as that is covered with oil its self, Both 300tdi and box are perfect and bone dry. one other thing, are both 300tdi bulkhead and the td bulkhead the same? or what I mean is if I fit the 300tdi bulkhead, will the original td floorpans, gearbox cover and seatbox still bolt together? if I leave the lt77 intact.

THANKS AGAIN.

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Hi all, I was searching through the net for info on the 300tdi conversion into an earlier land rover, 1988 td, when I came accross this forum.

Brilliant piece of work FOGGY, and greatly enhanced with the attached pictures, Thank you.

I would like to ask though, would this procedure be the same if fitting the r380 gearbox aswell?

Thank you for any response

Cheers stationwagon. Its as Rustynissanprairie says though, you'll need the correct 300tdi engine mounts in the correct place on the chassis if your going to fit the R380.

Thank you Rustynissanprairie for your advice, I should have said i have a complete 1998 defender for breaking, so have all the parts including a good bulkhead which I am changing as well, as the original is knackered.

So what I was really asking apart from the easiest way to do it, is, If any member were in my shoes,would they change to the r380 or stay with the lt77. I should add theres nothing wrong with the lt77 box apart from being covered in oil, dont know if its coming from box or from the engine as that is covered with oil its self, Both 300tdi and box are perfect and bone dry. one other thing, are both 300tdi bulkhead and the td bulkhead the same? or what I mean is if I fit the 300tdi bulkhead, will the original td floorpans, gearbox cover and seatbox still bolt together? if I leave the lt77 intact.

THANKS AGAIN.

The R380 is a nicer gearbox to use, though provided the LT77 hasn't got a worn output shaft (the common issue with the LT77) the strength of the two gearboxes is very similar. Its your choice really, but as you have all the parts available from the donor vehicle you might aswell upgrade to the R380 too.

The 300tdi bulkhead would fit fine with the older LT77 diaphragm, tunnel, floor plates ans seatbox, though if you do go down the R380 route you'll need the R380 diaphragm, tunnel, floor plates and seatbox.

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Thank you for that foggy3061, I have just removed the floorpans and gearbox tunnel from the td, I will replace the lt77 with r380.

when doing so will I still need the mounting adapter you made? or is it only a matter of cutting out the 300tdi engine mountings and welding them into td chassis, also if I need to change the gearbox crossmember is this a straight forward fit on the td chassis?

I appreciate any help/advice you can give.

Thanks again.

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the 380 cross member bolts onto a lt77 chassis with no mods, you just need to cut the engine mounts off your 300chassis and weld them in the same place on your TD chassis-no mounting adaptor required-the engine will sit on the factory position so you can use stock pipework. The adaptor is only needed when using a 300tdi with the bellhousing off the donor 2.5NA or TD and then bolting it to a Lt77. The 300ends up sitting further back in a NA/TD/200tdi style position hence the adaptor being required.

If you go the 300/r380 route you'll just basically recreate your '98 year Defender but on the older year TD chassis. Or just buy a new 300tdi galv chassis and go the full hog?

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So what I was really asking apart from the easiest way to do it, is, If any member were in my shoes,would they change to the r380 or stay with the lt77.

You've already decided, but you've made the right choice. The LT77 fitted to the TD had a lower ratio 5th than the later LT77s which had the same ratio as the r380 - effectively, you'll get slightly better cruising with the LT77s (fitted to the 200tdi onwards) or R380. Also, i would doubt that your current LT77 DOESNT have wear to the output shaft (i.e. transfer box input shaft, so, from this point of view, it will probably need changing anyway. Make wure you have a cross drilled input gear in the transfer box when you fit the R380, then you;ll keep the splines on the input shaft nicely lubricated.

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Thanks for this lads, I can now have ago at this fired up with this knowledge,

The chassis is in very good order so no need for a galv one just yet,

After removing the gearbox tunnel today this convinced me to change the box, the lt77 box and engine are drenched in oil, so may also have wear.

I greatly appreciate you lads taken the time to answer a strangers query and thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge.

Aii the best.

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone have ideas as to what difference there is between Tdi engine mounting positions and V8 mounting positions? I like this mount idea and wonder if it could be adapted for fitting a Tdi in my 101"

Its possible!

Here are the mounts side by side:

200tdi300tdiv8td5enginemounts.jpg

From left to right, 2.5p/2.5d/2.5td/200tdi (all 4 engines use same chassis mount) - 300tdi - V8 - TD5 (puma not shown).

Shame the image doesn't show the chassis position a little clearer.

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  • 5 months later...

Right folks, fitting a 300tdi engine in a 2.5p, 2.5d, 2.5td or 200tdi standard engine location.

The method I used was to fit a NRC9557 mount to the left hand side of the 300tdi engine, like so:

Image644.jpg

Then to build my own mount for the right hand side of the engine to get around the need to weld a new chassis mount to the right hand side.

Two problems though.

1) The 300tdi oil filter head now uses one of what was the right hand engine mounts on previous block castings.

2) The oil filter cartridge half obscures the area the mount would need to outreach from the engine to the chassis.

The solution; to create a mount that uses other bolt hole castings on the right hand side of the engine block, and that straddles the oil filter.

This is how I achieved it:

Image766.jpg

Image767.jpg

Image769.jpg

Image770.jpg

Image765.jpg

Image762.jpg

Image764.jpg

Then i had some time on my hands so made more additions! Couple more webbs and some corner radiusing!

Image804.jpg

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Now it just needs paint!

I have a dimensioned CAD drawing of all the various pieces I used, I will post this soon, I just need to get the line weight at a level it will be clear enough when I post the image.

Just re-take the pics of this mount and for each pic and at all angles place a ruler besides the mount and we can make our own mounts based off this. dont worry about CAD drawing and all that. Its just an engine mount.

Get all angles and place a ruler besides, then we can go figure from that and make our own.

Thats the best thing about defenders, with a bit a know how, fabrication skills and welding, you can modify and maintain a defender till your hearts content, keeping these great machines running forever basicaly.

I was thinking of doing this exact thing myself, given that ive never put an engine in anything in my life, I was thinking of first swapping the axles of a 300tdi donor into my 1987 2.5DT at some stage, then with engine hoist droppping an engine in and hanging it their whilst I connect it up and then fabricated suitable mounts.

Whether this will only work within my mind and not in practice I really dont know. Like I say, not done this before, its all learning for me.

In the meantime I have a sweet 2.5DT with only 100,000 miles since 1987 and one lovely elderly owner whom sold it me for only £1600, so as the saying goes, if it aint broke, dont fix it. So as long as she runs for me, then she will keep running until she POPS!

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  • 1 month later...

Just re-take the pics of this mount and for each pic and at all angles place a ruler besides the mount and we can make our own mounts based off this. dont worry about CAD drawing and all that. Its just an engine mount.

Get all angles and place a ruler besides, then we can go figure from that and make our own.

No can do, its fitted to a vehicle now so it won't be coming off again.

Besides, the CAD drawing tells you all the info you need. See page 2.

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  • 2 years later...

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